Mr Punter

I have not received a Council Tax bill or banding. We moved in quite a while ago. I guess I will get a large bill one day.

Even if you pay the same again to fit it is not too bad. And you get the VAT back, which you don't with carpet.

I thought the anhydrite screed was gypsum based anyway? If you are tiling you need to lightly sand off the laitance and that should get rid of any other imperfections.

They have quite a few fans over at Green Building Forum.

Someone on here did a grid matrix of the various panels that may be worth searching out. A rot proof core is worth going for. Your call on the tray replacement. Now would be as good a time as any but if it does/will not leak you could leave it.

I have covered the edge with stainless angle on one job:

Call your local Councillor and see if you can get it called in to Committee. It is a great looking scheme.

I have had some issues with Ultion cylinders failing on slam shut front doors. We had to make a forced entry on one of them.

I don't know. I just forwarded our accounts and bank statements to the broker and discussed with them how much we wanted to borrow. Repayment over 22 years. £1,000 fee free legals and valuation.

With the remortgage we are both owner / directors of ltd co trading 20 years. They took into account dividends and salaries. HSBC via a broker. We got it at 0.94% but I think they are a bit more now.

@Moonshine does part E stuff and knows what works well. @nod does lots of commercial jobs for clients that need to improve the sound attenuation. You need to separate their side from yours and block any gaps where sound could travel through. You may do well to get rid of the plasterboard on dabs so you can see the wall. It could be that this needs to be repointed or plastered, and either some resilient bars added and some acoustic plasterboard or an independent metal stud wall built. Look at whether your floor joists run into the party wall as these can transmit sound as well. Sometimes even cutting the floor deck back so that it is not in contact with the wall can help too. There is a lot to this and what seem minor details can make a large difference to the result.

The stress test is not really that onerous. Not all lenders have the same approach and yours may be a little conservative. If it is actually the case that no lender thinks you can afford the additional repayments, maybe they are right.

How about remortgage through a new lender? If you go through a decent broker you may also get a better deal than you currently have. I have just arranged a deal fixed for 5 years at less than 1% and they will do 80% LTV. The broker should be able to steer you towards the right lender.

Yes fine.The Fugi tool will give a nice clean 45 degree bead but it is worth using the black plastic bits in the kit for when you move over the grout lines between tiles.

Old regs: New regs:

The new standards v the 2016 ones are very similar. I think you are confusing the standards for the Notional Dwelling and the Limiting Standards, which are far more lax but can only be practically used for very small areas.

Is that what was the outside wall of the original house which is now in the extension? It may be the dpc was plastered over. Strip the plaster and skirting and have a look.

I see there is no longer a reference to fuel factor and air-to-air heat pumps are now included.

I think the onus will be on the contractor to gather and submit the evidence, not the SAP assessor. Same as all the rest of the BRegs.

I guess that with the woodcrete you can direct render or stick tiles or slips? Polystyrene you may need to fix a carrier board or something back to the concrete core.

If that is earth you need to remove it first. There should be foundation underneath. You will need DPM under the concrete, linked to the dpm on the existing floors.

If you want to add a vapour control layer and insulation from above it looks like you would need to strip the triangular battens to get access. You could add insulated plasterboard from underneath and still not be lower than the beams.

There is a fair amount of saving on the fire curtain, so you should have a bit of budget. Most of the metric doors are 2040 high and widths normally start at 626 and go up in 100mm increments. It should be simple to shave a bit from either side. Contact the supplier to confirm. Some have 20mm lipping so your 11mm sounds doable.

The squashed in mineral wool as suggested by @tonyshouse would hold it in place.

Perhaps blown cavity wall insulation - either beads or fibre - would be an idea.