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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Mr Punter
    Yes they should remove them immediately. They inadvertently published some personal details on an application we made but removed them swiftly when this was pointed out.
  2. Mr Punter
    I am with @Brickie on the insulation boards. It all looks fine in theory but in practice you will find them being stuffed in upside down or back to front after a section of wall has gone up. You may be better off with 100mm cavity and cavity batts or blown EPS beads, plus insulated plasterboard as @nod suggests.
  3. Mr Punter
    Poor detailing means water is soaking the render. Nothing at the top of the render to stop it and there is nowhere for the water from the roof to go.
  4. Mr Punter
    A bodge. The lead is a mess, as is the pointing and the fascia has only been primed, the end has not been painted nor the screw holes filled.
  5. Mr Punter
    Hooks prevent the slates from chattering. Also, should a slate break it will not fall. Less chance of damaging the slate as well.
  6. Mr Punter
    If you have a flat bay roof it can look good in lead or zinc.
  7. Mr Punter
    If the combi is at the end of it's life you could replace it with another and spend the rest of the money on improving insulation and airtightness. You could look at UFH on the ground floor. You will need at least 150mm insulation under there to make it work.
  8. Mr Punter
    This is snagging and should be undertaken by the seller under warranty. It can be caused by uneven or incorrectly fitted joists, shrinkage, lack of support for the boards (such as additional noggins required) or insufficient plasterboard screws.
  9. Mr Punter
    I have had packs of bricks where at least 10% are broken on delivery. Brickie does not want to pick up a brick more that once so will chuck anything imperfect, rather than use it for cuts. Find out if your supplier will restock unopened packs.
  10. Mr Punter
    You don't want Rockwool getting soaking wet and then sealing the wet in. For the windows I have used the clear heavy duty reinforced tarp wrapped around battens.
  11. Mr Punter
    Walk away. The work will cost a fortune. Unless you are a skilled builder with fluent Italian, do not think about it. Could easily cost £100k+.
  12. Mr Punter
    I can understand how you could become emotionally attached to a building like this, but it could well prove to be a money pit. Be very aware of the lengthy and costly bureaucracy in Italy. You may do better to find somewhere that has had at least all the structural work carried out. Often, completed projects can be decent value.
  13. Mr Punter
    How much were you quoted?
  14. Mr Punter
    Can you talk on the phone to BCO and if he is on side, ask him to meet with the builder on site to discuss?
  15. Mr Punter
    Like we have said, get a foam gun and a few cans of foam and spend an hour having a good squirt. By the end of the hour you should be good at using the gun. Leave the can in the gun after use. Total cost will be less than £50.
  16. Mr Punter
    If the staircase is well secured, use a long piece of 6" x 2"and attach one end to the wing of the tread support with screws or bolts through the fixing holes, then lever up or down. Archimedes is your friend here, not brute force.
  17. Mr Punter
    If you or you builder foam the gaps with a foam gun it will make a much better job. I quite like a bit of foaming and you should not need too many cans. Trim back the following day. With thick insulation it is easier to cut the insulation a bit small and then foam in tight. I don't like to have to remove a board for a trim-up.
  18. Mr Punter
    You often see puddles near outlets. Often there is lead fitted around the outlet adding a few mm then some extra membrane adding a bit more.
  19. Mr Punter
    Yes, windows out and sills and windows fitted as per manufacturers instructions is best but I thought the OP did not want the windows to be removed. They should have screwed the sills in first. Like a scene from White Gold!
  20. Mr Punter
    The simplest thing to do would be to make sure it is all clean and dry, gun in a load of silicone and leave a neatly tooled finish.
  21. Mr Punter
    Be very aware that to qualify for Class Q this must be a conversion and incorporate the existing structure, not a replacement. This seems very stupid and petty in your case, but it is the law and from what you have mentioned your local authority would keenly enforce it. I understand that new foundations are a no-no for Class Q.
  22. Mr Punter
    What you have there is well within tolerances. If you laid some Astroturf you could use it as a bowling green. I assume the puddles were not deep enough to cover a 5p piece?
  23. Mr Punter
    It looks like rain could easily find its way in, especially if it is blown by wind. Once it is in there it will be trapped. Also cold air can circulate around the frame.
  24. Mr Punter
    If the room has fixed heating and is not separated from the house by an external door is will need building regs. If you want to turn a connie into an extension it is normally best to remove and start afresh.
  25. Mr Punter
    +1 and even more so if you have the SE design based on the system. Can't you get someone to quote just to build the structure?
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