Mr Punter

99% of windows are not fitted with EPDM. Why does it need to be bonded to the cavity closer? Bonded to frame and to inner leaf will stop moist indoor air causing issues.

+1 We have laundry on level 2 as the bedrooms are level 1 and 2. It has access to a balcony and we use a low level airer that is not visible from outside.

Write to them carefully detailing what you feel are the shortcomings. Are the goods faulty or not up to the standard that you expected? Is it a few install tweaks, or rip them all out? I suspect that a surveyor will not help your case much at this stage and could cost a good deal of money.

I have not done it with those parquet blocks but have done fully glued bamboo. Very simple to do but you need to be meticulously clean to avoid getting adhesive everywhere. Once you have set out the first row or 2 leave it to dry so you have a firm edge to work to. Skirting covers a multitude of sins and makes it easier to fit the end boards. I have tended to dry lay out as far as I can reach and do all the cuts, draw round it so I know where to apply adhesive, take it up, adhesive the area and lay it in the wet adhesive. It feels very solid underfoot.

I worked for a big kitchen firm years ago. Height of base units was 888, standard height to top of worktop was 918. There were also 40mm worktops, so you could have 928. A few firms sell different height units for the lanky and the short-arsed.

You will need more than that to house the control panel. There is a fair bit involved, especially if you want intercom and ground loop. A friend does these and he likes FAAC kit and Videx intercom.

How about bamboo parquet? https://www.bambooflooringcompany.com/solid-carbonised-strand-woven-90mm-parquet-block-bona-coated-bamboo-flooring.html I have used the strand woven bamboo in the past, glued to chipboard sub floor. It feels really nice and solid and is very hard wearing.

It is a lot of money but I think that unlike carpet you can reclaim the VAT. There are lots of other LVT brands you could look at. Perhaps porcelain tiles in the entrance hall if you are concerned about scratches,

With EWI you need scaffold and have to consider how to insulate window and door reveals and cills. Downpipes need moving and roof overhangs need to be adequate. If it is a detached property and not in a conservation area it would be my choice. EPS seems popular You could look at Rockwool to take up the unevenness of the pebbledash but it will need to be thicker and more expensive for the same performance.

I think you are buying in to a world of pain. There are thousands of standard size bricks with a huge variety of colours and textures to chose from. I am about to start a project using Forum Smoked Branco with a light grey mortar.

If your new consent is granted it will supersede the previous consent. Maybe leave it and see if they pick up on it. Often they don't want cars reversing onto the main road but a turning area on your own land takes a big chunk of space.

Retro basements are expensive to create and tend to happen in very high value areas. This is why they are popular in Mayfair, where property prices are £20,000 per m2. On new build, basements can be viable elsewhere, subject to decent ground conditions. The finished value for basements will be less than the ground and first floors.

Very odd. Loads of blower door tests are set up with Rationel.

A type C waterproofing system, which has a plastic cavity membrane on the floor and walls and a perimeter channel let into the floor draining to a sump with pump(s) will work and leave a dry habitable space. You will need to excavate the floor and re-concrete it and add insulation and you will lose a bit from the perimeter for the membrane and insulation. You will probably need to underpin. If the property values are less than £5,000 per metre it is unlikely to be worth doing.

Quartz is less prone to cracking. 3m is probably as long as you can get.

They must be over 60 kilo each! Epic

If they think you may be in breach and you refuse access, they may be able to gain entry with a warrant. I am not sure you are correct when you state that internal changes do not require planning consent. For example, there may be conditions attached to the consent that the building must be built in accordance with the drawings. If the changes involved a different activity or, for example, a change in floor levels or window treatment that could impact a neighbour there could be a case. What have you done that concerns you?

You will just need to run the uphill section from the pump station in different pipe. The only issue I have found is getting it to lie flat in the trench, especially in cold weather.

It is certainly an improvement.

Well done. It did seem odd that they were considering refusal.

I am not sure about Scotland, but many new homes in England are either wheelchair accessible or adaptable. You could buy this https://www.rightmove.co.uk/properties/117720371#/?channel=RES_NEW for £210,000 or this https://www.rightmove.co.uk/properties/77826207#/?channel=RES_NEW at £325,000 I think if you start talking to agents you may just find somewhere that will suit without the stress of self build. Some developers may be obliged to provide fully accessible properties on a scheme and may welcome your custom.

I think you need the manufacturer out to look at this. Was it a DIY install? Which ducts are an issue (extract to unit, exhaust to outside, intake from outside, supply from unit)? Is the unit located in a heated space?

The coving adhesive is really strong when it sets. If you DIY this, wipe off any excess as it will not sand. I have taken off coving where it feels like it is holding the place together. Is the ceiling high? It is no fun climbing up a ladder with a bit of plaster moulding loaded with adhesive. I would not contest the price. Not that much in the scheme of things.

I have seen it where all boards are glued, the first board also gets a nail, then after it is watertight the whole lot gets screwed. I am not sure the screws are needed, just what was specified. These were collated ones with a square drive head that was non standard size. If they missed a joist they would not sit flush and were a bastard to remove.

Be good to find an installer that is able to fit a few makes. Daikin, Panasonic, Mitsubishi, Panasonic etc. You need an FGAS installer. You can only DIY the prep work, not the fitting. Just a unit in the main room would be cheapest. The bedroom will need little / no extra heat. Electric towel rad in bathroom. You could get the whole lot supplied and fitted for between £1,000 and £2,000 if you shop around.