Mr Punter

Yet another inner city infill! Get a 5p piece and lay it flat in the centre of the puddle. If it is not submerged you know it is less than +-2mm.

Maybe you are just getting the MAC address of the router.

The underpinning sounds OTT. It may be easier to do a section of wall at a time - demolish, new foundations, rebuild. There is always a danger that this will no longer be deemed PD, so don't do too much in one bite and retain / repair / reinstate as much of the steel frame as possible. SEs often just spec something that will work, with little regard to the cost. I had one spec 2 layers of A393 mesh for a ground bearing concrete slab. When challenged they were happy with a single layer of A142. Did you dig a trial pit to establish foundation depth? Also, have Building Control been to site? They often have a good idea of typical acceptable foundations in the area.

Sometimes in garages it is good practice to lay the concrete to a fall towards the door in case of fuel spills. This won't work with the self level stuff.

I think I will. It will save a world of pain.

Brighton. Only 3 flats. Decent plumbers seem hard to find. Plumbing is 90% of callbacks.

Yes that is the plan. I will see if I can rustle up some quotes from some vaguely competent plumbers. Gas is a PITA but they are small 1 bed upper floor flats.

The only bit I am currently interested in is to run the pipes under the slab. GSR guy may not be needed until we have built the structure. Groundworker is doing foundations, drainage, water and BT. It tends to be we get a plumber for the whole heating, DHW, sanitary ware and kitchen plumbing part of the job. I didn't want to go to the trouble of putting this all out to tender right now if I can avoid it.

For 6 months, that just seems very little. We are on gas and have averaged 30kWh per day, plus 17kWh per day for electric.

Well that is a kick in the bollocks to any ASHP deniers!

We are starting a project in January and I would like to run gas to 2 upper floor flats from the meters at the front, under the slab and up with the external soil pipe. There is a 150mm concrete ground bearing slab with 150pir. We have not got a plumber on board yet. What is the best way to do this run? I would prefer not in the PIR as that is another flat. I am considering Tracpipe, yellow plastic etc. Do we need ducting? Is this a job for Gas Safe plumber or groundworker?

Are you sure you did not miss a zero from the end?

It is a good idea if you are detached. You need to consider the soffit overhangs, windows reveals, soil pipe positions and anything you are planning to fix to the outside. I have seen it done with EPS and with PIR. I think EPS would be my choice. They use adhesive plus a few mechanical fixings for each board, then thin coat render with a mesh coat. You should try to get floor insulation done at the same time. All fairly disruptive.

It will be much easier to spread adhesive evenly on the backer board but quite a faff and expense to do.

That is a great finish. It looks very like your original image. Did you join the ends where the vertical meets the soffit? A couple of points: I heard that with some of the ventilated cladding insects are not an issue as they don't like the constant breeze from the chimney effect. We have used Tyvek UV Facade membrane in the past and it seems very strong and does not look vulnerable to insect damage.

I was thinking solid plate. But I won't be paying.

Can you use some 8mm x 300mm steel bar to bridge over the screed?

The really big warehouse type steps are really heavy and difficult to store. Scaffold towers are awkward to climb or use on your own.

I can't work out why there is a gap, but it may be good to cloak the lintel and the gap it in whatever material the windows are finished in.

If you DIY this it will be very inexpensive and fairly simple.

Tasty looking spreadsheet and charts @Hanksy.

Preliminaries: https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Preliminaries_in_construction

Yes, but according to the OP they are not interested in the number of crates installed.

If your neighbour is OK for you to use their power (and water?) it is a right result. Well worth a decent gift or agree an amount per month paid in cash up front.

We fitted some Velfac windows on a project 12 years ago and one had a similar issue. We had fitted them according to the Velfac drawings and details. In the end, Velfac replaced in at their own expense under guarantee. Their current install drawings look a bit more robust nowadays. The issue is either external weather ingress of condensation. A picture of the outside may help. These are often sealed externally with Compriband foam tape. If so and the gap is fairly wide, you could remove a section and see what is going on. If there is a large void you could fill it with foam and redo the Compriband.