Mr Punter

You're on quite a steep slope with the tank below the house, so fine there. The drainage field size is done by calculation. The bit between the house and the tank is straightforward but you need to post up a floor plan. It would be best to have stack pipes on outside walls rather than the centre of the footprint. These are often internal, so the drainage is at the edge of the slab. Are you doing a separate system for rainwater?

They use them a lots outside pubs and in industrial units.

Contact your insurer. They will be able to advise what they need. If this is visible from inside, like a loft hatch, you could have a look and see if you can see daylight.

Typically rust bleeding through and the paint is soft and yellowing. Also for the paint to work you need to leave a space around it for it to expand. I hate the stuff.

Deffo loads better than the basketweave brick / ashlar / mix. It looks more cohesive in the monochrome. I see the soffit depth is a fair bit deeper. Why is that?

I have had the same row with an architect. I don't understand how a ceiling can be 1 hour fire resistant yet not suitable to protect a steel beam. BG were not much help and we reach an impasse where the architect specified intumescent paint and I will have a fight on site with the Building Inspector.

Can you test it with a lighter or blow torch to see if it catches fire? Maybe try outside!

I think you need to treat this as a spec development. Don't overspend and overspec. Have you got a price from a builder to do the work on the current plans? If this is a 2 storey side, single storey rear extension plus loft conversion and dormers it will be very costly and take a long time. Not many purchasers will pay a premium if all they get is planning consent. It is quite difficult to add extra value to an existing house (in excess of build cost) by extending, unless it is a tiny house in an expensive area with room to extend.

Leave the old stuff it makes me itch just thinking about it. The newer Knauff insulation seems far nicer to work with.

Do it flush. Foam the window first. The weak point is where the frame and wall meet and if you cover some of that with insulation it will help reduce the cold bridge. Protect the frame with tape and cut and remove it after plastering / painting.

I can only suggest making sure every tile is clipped and nailed but yours look like they are.

I think the 100mm stud would be OK. Can you make these up as timber framed panels and stand them up? You could even have OSB sheathing and breather paper on the outside to maintain the cavity.

One that I did was 75mm Celotex, 22mm T&G chipboard and I think 16mm strand woven bamboo stuck down with silane adhesive. It felt very solid.

I have found that bonding the floor gives a really solid finish. Whether it is £800 worth of solid is debatable. It also takes almost twice as long to fit. Maybe a thicker click fit floating floor with decent underlay would be just as good and less expense and ball ache.

From the Telegraph today: Domestic wood burning is the UK’s single largest source of PM2.5 air pollution, according to research – creating three times as much as road traffic, or 750 times more than an HGV. Analysis from Green Transition Denmark found that these tiny particles – emitted by eight per cent of the population, of whom almost half were affluent and chose a burner for aesthetic reasons – are small enough to enter the bloodstream and lodge themselves in organs. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/family/life/middle-england-getting-heated-wood-burners/

The version on the render gives a nice crisp horizontal break between the ceiling and tiled wall. Also, the column and left hand nib are set back from the section above and the ceiling into the alcove above the sink is level without a step. These small details can have quite an impact on the overall look but it is more than just tile / plaster and difficult to do now. I would be concerned about spending time and money ripping out the tiles and still not achieving the aesthetic in the render. The ceiling looks great btw.

They are acting as Managing Agents rather than Estate Agents.

That is the brand in the picture.

Remember losing this game to him yesterday?

As you are about to put roof trusses on it is a bit late to be bringing this up and all talk of ripping out the foundations is fanciful. It does not sound like the 160mm made much difference. If it is an internal wall I assume you gained a bit of space in one room and lost it in another. If you harp on about this you will just piss off the builder. Just try to keep the job moving and try to make sure you spot any further cock-ups early on. At best, do like @markc says and see if you can get some extras included.

How far off is the wall? Who was responsible for setting out?

You chose the wrong opponent for basement top trumps.

Just put access panels where you need them. The suspended ceiling tiles look pony.

Do it in metal frame, then plasterboard as normal. Just like a timber joisted ceiling but with fewer cracks.

I don't think it will do any harm. There is a fair gap between the insulation and blockwork. Can you close this off at the top?