Mr Punter

He said on day rate. Really needs to be price. I would think 100 blocks in a day would be OK. Would they be about £2 a block to lay? That looks like a fairly big house.

Fire resistant glass. Tempered and often laminated with a clear intumescent layer. Expensive.

If you get no joy you can report this to the warranty provider.

The warranty firms are not keen. I understand corrosion protection is an issue as ground conditions have a big impact on this.

If you cannot use a soakaway you may still be required to have attenuation tanks so that water does not splurge into the sewer as soon as there is a downpour. Get some more quotes for your piling. Underpinning may be no good as you need to go deeper. If you keep the existing foundations and strengthen with screw piles or whatever make sure you get a proper guarantee against failure. Once you have had underpinning, future buyers will be very cautious.

If this is for demolish and rebuild, it looks like you will need to install piles to 10-12m. From the report the existing foundation is not suitable for additional loading. Unless there is obvious subsidence I would either leave the foundations and building loadings as they are or demolish and start again with augered concrete piles and ground beams.

This one is not FD30.

Hi @mattdeluca and welcome. You can just fix battens to the wall. No need for membrane.. If you are desperate to use some, wall, membrane, battens and cladding.

Measure from the right to the ground. So if your structure is 250mm, will this be 750 above ground level? It would be fine if there are no neighbouring gardens that could be overlooked. I would not want people looking down into my garden from an elevated position.

No as I imagine the glass will break and the thin glazing beads will burn away. It is possible to get fire resisting glass but it is expensive and you would need larger section special glazing beads.

Having glazing in FD30 is difficult as it needs to hold together. Wired glass does not look pretty. The glazing bars will not last 30 minutes.

I am with @AliG on this. Lots of natural ventilation this summer and the MVHR properly commissioned and SWMBO is happy and you will be fine.

The stove will pollute massively. Do you have a free source of timber? https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-59546278

Do the offending windows have heavy curtains? I don't have MVHR and RH here is about 50%. No condensation on the windows.

Why not just add the insulation over / between the ceiling joists and keep the extra headroom?

Shotfire timber with Hilti gun. Cheap to hire.

Agree with @redtop those ceiling joists look really flimsy. It should be cheap to get an engineer to spec this and they will make sure the rest of the roof and the external walls are all sound as well.

The resilient bars are a good call. I also wish I used them. No point for the OP unless they are attic trusses.

If it makes fitting the boards tricky you could pack the joists with hardboard or gouge out a bit of plasterboard.

That is very odd. Although the calculation is a bit black box, the input data is available. The only way your heating load could be 3 times higher would be for the heat losses to be 3 times higher. Did they supply the input data?

Yes they do an AS BUILT SAP and this will allow them to make any changes you tell them about and input the airtightness test results before producing the EPC. Make sure they amend any errors or oversights.

I think they are fairly good but you need to make sure the correct values are input, such as the actual ASHP efficiency, air leakage, cold bridges and u values.

A long time ago I got someone to strip a bungalow roof and they did it free in exchange for the tiles. They were only concrete plain tiles so I doubt it was worth their while.

Lead and copper are very long lasting but your seems to have been bodged over the years. Unless you are going to DIY this it may be worth getting a couple of roofers over to get their opinion.

£1200?