Mr Punter

I think they like a protected staircase as the main route, plus an escape window as an alternative. 30 mins is fine.

You should carry out the drainage works in accordance with the approved scheme you submitted. Planning do not check what you have done.

Get a decent mortgage broker. Their fee is normally covered by the lender. Lenders like them because they understand what is acceptable and required and don't waste time with applications that will not comply.

It is quite unusual to have a shower replaced with a bath. It looks like the wet room was put in for mobility reasons. This looks a straightforward job. It is hard to know if you will need to mess with the slab until the shower is out. Get a couple of plumbers to quote. Are you doing this as part of a larger refurb?

The floor designer normally does the beam layout so you need to give the 8mm spec to the people doing the floor beams.

Have you seen and operated the proposed pocket doors? They could prove a pain. The floor spans are quite long for the beam and block. Make sure you specify max deflection of 8mm. They may spec bigger beams or more of them. A fair amount of concrete for the foundations but still should be cheaper than piling and ground beams. Nice house!

I like to use a spade or my Big Mutt for this sort of thing. Wide strong blade and a long handle.

I haven't seen silicone used for these. If external is render, will this go on after windows and just return into the window frame?

Could you just fix the wobbly ones additionally with a slate hook, which will secure the tail?

When I read the original post I thought it was a bit odd because I have not heard of sticking plasterboard to a ceiling. Seeing the photos, the original ceiling is cracked and appears weak and defective. To sort this out, they should have suggested either: 1. Skim the ceiling with a thin coat of plaster 2. Overboard the ceiling by screwing new plasterboard into the joist and laths, then skim 3. Rip down the ceiling and laths, screw new plasterboard to joists, then skim. What they have done is stick new plasterboard onto defective plaster, adding to the weight that may come crashing down. The first 2 options would have been far safer and easier. What a knob-end. At least it is only one room.

Try to leave it on for as long as possible. You may need to reduce your boost setting and adjust the terminal to increase the flow from that room.

No surprise. If you have a flat roof, "warm" means all the insulation on top of the rafters. With pitched roofs it tends to mean warm loft, with insulation between and sometimes above / below.

Check it tomorrow morning. Maybe release a few captives. And have cold showers.

I doubt they will be pleased with the unsecured loan. Does your income easily cover the monthly loan / mortgage servicing costs?

Walk around on the boards. at 120mm they should feel solid. Any that move, get them refitted. The Pink Grip foam adhesive is very sticky if the foam you have has not worked 100%. Use with a gun and force the nozzle in so it is about halfway down the joist and squirt as you withdraw (oh err).

I would not bother. Spend the money on insulation and airtightness. Bedrooms upstairs in well insulated houses typically need almost no heating but may require cooling. If we have an electric towel radiator on upstairs for any length of time the bedrooms overheat.

If you use a liquid screed you can reduce it to 50mm, so gaining an extra 25mm insulation. As above, the phenolic foam offers more insulation. Switching to liquid screed and 125mm phenolic will give a u value of about 0.12 as opposed to 100mm of pir which will give around 0.16. With ufh on a beam and block floor this will make a considerable difference.

You can either tape the final layer of insulation with foil tape or add polythene over the lot. The polythene is a bit more cumbersome and it is not so simple to hold in place with staples. Double sided tape may be better.

Wit a long bit, drill a hole straight through sloping slightly down from inside to outside and mark your outline both sides with pencil and string. You might find it easier to clad right over with the Cedral and cut it with your cordless jigsaw. I have used some Bosch fibre blades for cement cladding. They cut really well and don't burn out.

It would need to be sealed to the floor and ceiling, which in turn would need to be airtight and the perimeter of all openings, with all fixings and penetrations sealed, so not really.

I doubt it will be much more expensive for the inner pane toughened and laminated and the outer pane toughened.

I think what he was saying was that unless you have had a condition imposed to adhere strictly to the approved drawings, if the amendment is non-material it would be allowed anyway. On your point about timescales, there have been cases, such as some PD rights, where the LA are obliged to determine with a defined period, failing which, consent is assumed. It does not seem to be the same for the s96(a) ones, sadly.

Is there an existing problem with sound transmission? What about the rest of the party wall? Brick slips are difficult to get looking right.

If the garage roof is lower there should have been a cavity tray and weep holes just above where the garage roof joins the house wall and this would still be in place.

Interesting. I saw on Martin Goodall's blog that he considers section 96(a) pointless, as if the proposed change is not material you could carry it out under your current consent. https://planninglawblog.blogspot.com/2013/11/minor-amendments.html