Mike

+1 Water pipes are also more robust without much to go wrong.

When I did my last, I used the excess concrete to progressively place the foundation for driveway kerbs.

I'm sure that we can help with that, if you share details of your neighbour's proposal & the structure of the wall. BTW, if it's a new extension, I presume that it's the original house that's moving, not your extension?

It would be helpful to know more about the structure of the wall and the proposed means of fixing, but I can't see an obvious reason why damp - or anything else - would be a significant risk. The biggest long-term issue could be rust staining, but stainless steel fixings could be used to avoid that. The biggest source of potential 'damage' would probably be the formation of green algae in the shade of plants grown next to the wall, but you can't stop a neighbour growing plants (unless, perhaps, ivy gets seriously out of hand).

If your other ground floor rooms have timber floors, you need to either add ducts below any new solid extension floor and terminating in airbricks (to ventilate the timber floors), or replace them with solid floors too, as @Mr Punter suggests.

Domestic closers were dropped (except for integral garages) due to a report in 2003 identifying over 30,000 finger-trap injuries each year, plus evidence that many people disabled the closers or wedged the doors. Instead there was supposed to be awareness campaigns advising people to shut their internal doors at night (all doors, as most people didn't know if they had fire doors or not). Obviously if the shut door is a fire door, you have better protection. Leave it open and it is indeed pointless.

Indeed. Potentially within a few centimetres of it, meaning neither of you would be able to easily access your walls for maintenance in future. That would put me off buying your house much more than whether or not the neighbour had inserted a few bolts in your wall.

Particularly for a garage, I'd be looking to use a 2-part epoxy grout for extra dirt & chemical resistance.

What fixings is he proposing? Why not explore alternative systems that might be acceptable to you? I can't that his proposal is likely to cause a significant problem - and the access may make it easier for you if you need to clean out your gutter / repair the roof, etc., apart from the good will your consent would generate...

As there's no great distance or weight, I'd use 30 x 30mm steel angle iron on each face.

I've not used one, but a carbon filter (maybe in conjunction with an HEPA filter) should help.

I came across the Quiet Vent it in my research for a cooling solution. The cooler seems to be a version of the CW-5200 from Guangzohou Teyu Electromechanical Co Ltd (with added thermostat port), which is apparently well regarded for cooling industrial lasers. Another possible device that might be modified is the Waterchiller Hailea Ultra Titan 4000, a computer CPU cooler which claims to have nearly double the chilling capacity (3 300W) and is apparently much quieter, but it seems not to have any air duct connections - maybe not such a problem if installed in an attic. I'm planning to look at beer chillers, but so far haven't progressed beyond the beer For more conventional potential aircon solutions, my thread here may be of some interest.

I've just checked and my interpretation of the regs is indeed wrong! Regulation 9 exempts certain buildings, subject to Regulation 21 which puts heating / cooled buildings back in the regulations. However that contains another exception (that I'd forgotten about) for various structures including 'stand-alone buildings other than dwellings with a total useful floor area of less than 50m2'. However in the case of @starbuckhouse , the existing garage is 54m², so this exemption wouldn't apply. BTW being habitable (or not) isn't a criteria (the word 'habitable' doesn't appear in the legislation). Top marks for insulating anyway, Jeremy

And also whether it's to be heated (or cooled); if either then Building Regs are required irrespective of area or use. I imagine that it will be at least heated for winter use if it is to be used as a workshop? If so it will need insulating to the normal standards.

Might also be worth knowing about air spades.

That was the Dursley Tree House, which used these steel screw piles.

If I had the patience to learn the technology involved, I might well go with OpenHab, rather than tying myself to a proprietary system.

That was probably the Lifetime Homes standard: "Entrance level WC and shower drainage: Where an accessible bathroom, in accordance with Criterion 14, is not provided on the entrance level of a dwelling, the entrance level should have an accessible WC compartment, with potential for a shower to be installed – as detailed in the specification below." None, in the case of en-suites everywhere (but I suggested dropping it)...

Not sure quite what you're planning from your question, but you can't install a cistern within a partition; it needs to be in a separate boxing within the WC / bathroom (for access & maintenance, noise reduction, possibly for fire resistance reasons too). Provided you do that, no problem with the socket.

Did that successfully a couple of years ago. And put a 38x150 sub-floor underneath it. On the other hand I know of another which had been nailed together with so many nails that it was impossible to prise the panels apart - but you'd be very unlucky to find that.

Anything more than 1mm and I'd re-cut the skirting. I wouldn't use corner blocks.

Yes, provided you take normal precautions against dust.

Also see https://www.haringey.gov.uk/planning-and-building-control/building-control/building-control-applications/do-i-need-building-regulations-approval https://www.warwickdc.gov.uk/info/20375/building_regulations/580/do_i_need_building_regulations Building Regulations Part 6

The normal rule is that if energy is used to 'condition the indoor climate' then the building needs to meet Part L of the regs, whether or not the heating (or cooling) is fixed. There are additional requirements for installing fixed services, particularly covering commissioning (if applicable). But maybe there's an exception that I'm not aware of.

Typically things like the cost of a visiting site manager, providing WC, site accommodation & storage, hardstandings, skips for waste, keeping the site tidy, incidental plant & equipment, maybe scaffolding, maybe the provision of water & electricity...