Mike

Lack of oxygen isn't a problem, other than that it will be displaced by carbon monoxide in the blood if you have a carbon monoxide problem - possible if you cook with gas or have a fire. CO2, however, is a significant; research has shown that brain function & sleep quality decline as CO2 levels rise. Less than 700ppm is generally regarded as acceptable*, based on current knowledge. It's possible to control MVHR ventilation rate using a CO2 sensor, and that would be advisable rather than cutting the rate manually. Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) are also a concern. VOC levels are likely to be high for around the first 3 years of use, so better not to rely on CO2-based control during those first years - unless you have consciously built & furnished your home with low-VOC materials (see my post here) BTW, if you're in an urban area you may also need to filter your air to to remove outdoor pollution (particularly PM2.5 and NOx). *The recommended level for schools is 800ppm; it's concerning that many schools with monitors show CO2 levels >1500ppm - see https://www.nasuwt.org.uk/article-listing/survey-shows-government-failing-ventilation.html

Not online, but if you have a university nearby check if they have a printing service open to the public. Mine does, with excellent quality and unbeatable prices. .

Check your deeds - there may be provision for repairs I'd imagine that should be possible under the Party Wall Act, if you can get planning permission.

How about a 55" TV + virtual fireplace screensaver / video (which can come with a soundtrack too). Even better if you can raise it up and use it as a spare TV...

That's not a Building Regulations requirement for regular homes, though I wouldn't normally put them closer than that anyway. If you can plan far enough ahead, coordinate the positioning - vertically and horizontally - to suit your planned wall tiles (if you're planning to have any). For light switches, I always have them coincide with the axis of the door handle, where possible.

It looks a good replacement to me :)

If it's anhydrite, then yes, well sealed after it's dried. In other cases check the technical information for your particular screed. Yes, at least 6mm wide at room edges and doorways. If you have large rooms then divide them into bays of no more than 40m², with a maximum length of 8m per side. I also choose a 'flexible' adhesive - rated S1 or (better) S2 - suitable for the tile type and size. Your supplier will be able to advise you.

You can: House worth £1,350,000 has enough plug sockets for everyone in the street

Chips are always a risk. Some materials are more prone to chipping than others...

The 45° 'rule', if there is one, will be a local planning policy. Your council should have information explaining how they apply it - you may need to ask if you can't find it on their website.

It would appear, however, that they are no longer in business: https://app.insolvenz-portal.de/Insolvenzverfahren/exklusiv_hauben-gutmann-gmbh/2950265

Parts of the regulations apply - or don't apply - according to particular circumstances (set out in the regulations), but none of the regulations are optional.

Agree that it's not a problem. I'd be much more concerned by the use of the flexible connector on the cistern water supply. They are quick, easy and widely used, but tend to degrade with time: Faulty hoses dampening Australian households

This.

See also Perfect [kitchen] worktop doesn't exist - but how about optimal?

If you're up for modifying the roof, I'd create a vertical abutment in plywood where the dormer eaves meet the roof, with lead flashing, here:

Schwegler provide a very wide range of habitats, including some that can be built into a wall. They do - or at least did, pre-Brexit - have UK stockists.

For more quiet appliances, see Quiet Mark

You can also do similar using a pair of BoardMate tools.

It included dot & dab plasterboard (which I've advised against) & fitting only a WC & basin. However there will be many other variables to make a 1:1 comparison.

Certification (to BS 476 : Part 22 : 1987 or BS EN 1634-1: 2014) that the combined door and lining (as a set), with appropriate ironmongery and installation methods, meets the FD30 standard. DIY mixes of doors, frames & intumescent strips don't meet the standard.

A friend has recently been quoted around £25K for a similar sized extension, so doesn't seem way off.

Although used in some of the Approved Documents, the word 'habitable' doesn't actually appear in the legislation, so isn't used for determining whether or not Building Regulations apply. However changing the number of rooms that are used for residential purposes does count as a 'material change of use', where a “room for residential purposes” means 'a room... which is used by one or more persons to live and sleep'. Which might well be deemed to include a utility room. (By way of comparison, Approved Document B - Fire Safety - does use the term 'habitable'; kitchens are habitable, but bathrooms are not). Changing the 'energy status' of a space - that is, heating or cooling the utility room - would require Building Regulations. Note that some newer buildings may have planning conditions preventing the conversion of a garage.

Legally, the design and the copyright remain the Architect's, unless the standard conditions of appointment have been explicitly changed. However - provided the architect has been paid as agreed - the person commissioning the architect will have at least an implicit licence permitting them and others working on the building to reproduce and use the drawings as necessary to construct the building.

Yes, electric heating is heavily penalised at the moment. SAP is changing next year and under the new calculations it should come out better.