MrSniff

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About MrSniff

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  • About Me
    Accountant by profession, living and working in Luxembourg for the past few years... DIY maintainer and updater of a 1920s semi in South London and a 2009 end of terrace "townhouse" on the banks of the Moselle in Luxembourg.
  • Location
    Luxembourg

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  1. Fence paint needs to penetrate the wood, in my experience it works best on rough sawn timber and less well on planed timber. As bassanclan said, if the timber has been covered with either a water-proof treatment or a primer the fence paint can’t penetrate and won’t dry. I suspect the guidance on use of a primer relates to normal paint finishes rather than fence paint.
  2. The Unifi app (iOS in my case) was fine for managing 3 APs without a key, which we did for a year or so. A key does make management easier and enables some additional functionality like guest access, so we do have one hooked up now.
  3. We have a Unifi POE access point on each floor of the house with Cat6 back to a Netgear POE switch. It hasn’t yet caused any problems...
  4. Osmo also do a non-slip colourless oil for decking which although quite pricy is very good.
  5. Thanks all for the responses, and suggestions. I will continue my research along those lines.
  6. I'm considering retrofitting a decentralised MVHR system to a three-floor concrete built house with no loft (nowhere obvious to put a central unit, and I can't think how to run the ducting except on wall surfaces...) A search of the forum brings up Blauberg, which is the system I've been looking at with a WiFi connection between units, but nothing definitive. Has anyone used them or have any views on the technology generally? I can't imagine they're as effective / efficient as a centralised unit . The house seems pretty airtight with no trickle vents on any of the windows so I'd like to get some proper ventilation going, although mould has so far appeared only in one stairwell to the roof. Thanks!
  7. Gutting and refitting our main bathroom was the first major project I undertook some 15 years ago. It took an age, but plumbing makes me nervous and I was dry fitting everything (several times) and redoing (several times) until my paranoia was reduced. The only problems were a silicon shower seal which failed, and looks to be going again (so will be redone as Nick says above - thanks) and finding out that JG plastic pipe and inserts and shallow compression fittings don't make such good bedfellows - apparently light and water was not the multifunction my wife was hoping for in the kitchen... With those lessons learned, and other great stuff gleaned from this forum, I would have no hesitation in doing it again when necessary.
  8. Both places we've lived in Luxembourg have an awning - very good for controlling solar gain (and of course for sitting under when the midday sun is too hot). Both were electrically controlled from a straightforward wired indoor switch. I haven't yet found a smart switch for controlling these or the external blinds we also have - not at my price point anyway! My only slight concern is the loading on the mounting bolts with ever a fairly light breeze: not that I have had a problem so far, but I can imagine repeated small movements over time from that, and even opening and closing, could weaken the mounting so I guess needs to be checked every so often. Nonetheless I would happily install them where I wanted them.
  9. If using the UFH thermostat to call for heat can the buffer be plumbed in to the return so that the UFH loops get to temperature before the buffer starts heating? I am assuming (maybe wrongly, so happy to be corrected) that the buffer is really only adding water volume to the circuit.
  10. +1 on the Sandtoft 20/20. Not handmade, but we used them on a rear extension with a shallow pitch some 10 years ago (instead of interlocking concrete which as far as I could tell was the only other option). Not a great pic, but the only one I have to hand (lower roof line).
  11. They may need to be patient builders... my experience with ours is that even with fast internet and a strong WiFi signal (it seems most are quite picky about the signal) there's a fairly long period of time between the bell being pushed and the app opening and connecting. Most visitors have walked away by the time mine has connected. Sometimes that's not such a bad thing... As ProDave I would think a mobile phone and skype would be better.
  12. We have been running a NAS with two 1TB disks for a few years now. It wasn't cheap (but is the lowest cost Synology) but was a cost effective way of having a networked Time Machine disk for Mac backups as well as centralised file storage and music server. (I had been using an old computer with extra storage running headless but running a dedicated NAS just proved easier and the router we had at the time did not have a NAS server built in). I guess that a USB 3.0 desktop drive (with its own power supply) would be the minimum spec plugged into a router. We do also use cloud storage as backup for some key documents: these are saved as password protected zip files: not foolproof, but better than nothing - and slightly more efficient on storage as well.
  13. So, ethanol it was - quite happy with the effect with the rain lashing down the river outside and a medicinal glass of Fursty Ferret to hand... FullSizeRender.mov
  14. Maybe some more information would be helpful: this is for an extended 1920's 3 bed semi (UK) with two radiator zones and 1 zone underfloor heating (12 year old kitchen extension). Hot water usage is not overly high. Boiler is currently mounted in the loft and with a small vented cylinder in an airing cupboard below - there is not enough room in the cupboard for even the smallest UVC. The primary circuit is closed with a pressure tank set to about 1.5bar. Incoming cold pressure is very good (although I don't know the actual pressure). I saw a post recommending the Vaillant EcoTec 938, which seems to have a built-in hot water store, but I don't think that's the same as a buffer which I understand I may need for the UHF? Although I've used BG for the previous boiler, I'm not sure their service is that great and getting a "proper" set up for the house seems from an independent sounds like a better long term option. Any thoughts much appreciated. Ian
  15. Hi all, Our 15ish year old British Gas system boiler is now fairly regularly giving us problems, so although I think a boiler should last rather longer than 15 years I'm thinking of replacing it with a new combi boiler. Are there any brands I should look to and anything else I should consider, such as a buffer tank? Many thanks!