wozza

Dishwashers are now available with Vario Hinge doors, Bosch, Siemens Neff - other brands may have different solutions or terminology that removes the need for a recess. The door lifts as it opens. See here:

You mean Cligs

We wanted to do this but the design of our new kitchen will not allow for a taller cabinet where the dishwasher is going. I have seen a purpose made cabinet for a raised dishwasher in a showroom (a couple of years ago) - I think it was a German manufacture. I cannot believe that its not more popular.

Who supplied the stove and did they not recommend an external air supply?

Thermally broken Lintels are now available.

Nooooo - please do not use PVA.

Ditra has a proven track record. We used it a few weeks ago (about 2.8 rolls), I would use it again, shop around for a good price - try CTD. I am not sure about the thin rubber / fleece decoupling matting. The shape of the Ditra offers a good mechanical fixing. We used also used Kerakoll Fugabella grout for our main floor area - the tiler said it was the best non epoxy grout you can get.

I have to agree with the majority, something just aint right and it would annoy my OCD. Take them all off and clean off the adhesive, then play around to see if they can be made to line up.

I would insulate if its a ground floor - and as said above check your airflow / airbricks

Do you have the model number? Link to the advert? Are you able to send back for a refund?

Swmbo and myself did most of ours - As said its an easy DIY job, just take your time. As PeterW suggests, we also fitted eaves protectors (cheap and easy to do) We used Eurocell, we looked at other suppliers but the quality was not as good.

I helped fit one a long time ago - I think it had a floor fitting / mount that the standpipe connected into (separate hot / cold feeds that were like a push fit) and then secured with bolts.

Like this ?

Do you have a picture - do you mean you have copper tap tails?

I used a mounting bracket for both of mine - even easier than the individual brackets.

Are the pipes loose behind the tile, do they have any wiggle in them? is it just the holes in the tiles that are spacing them at 145mm? Can you cut out 2.5mm from the tile each side of each pipe and push the pipes out to widen the spacing to 150mm? As has already been said - the silver threaded section with the flats on is used to compress the olive onto the bracket - the shower them screws directly on. The cranked connectors are not designed to be used with those brackets. The brackets need to be spaced correctly.

I have done it - and repaired pretty much the same as everyone has suggested. Before completing the repair - use the joist as a datum to check the rest of your holes will be in the correct place

So after doing even more reading, my plan is as follows: Set the blending valve to 5 degrees above the average room temps (we have 4 rooms - 7 loops) Set the room stats to 2 degrees above the room temp (max 22 degrees) Increase the blending valve by 5 degrees each day until I reach 40 degrees. Any thoughts?

Aqua panel is a bit different to Hardie backer

Hi All, After some advice about turning on our UFH after tiling. The screed was laid in December and the system was run for a few months during the winter. The tiles have been laid over the last couple of months and the final grouting was finished on Monday. I have read lots of different information about turning the heating back on slowly and how to do it but I cant get my head around it, the tiler suggested waiting a week and then turning the system on and setting the room stats to 2 degrees above what they are reading and increasing it by 2 degrees per day - they currently read around 19 degrees (will normally run it at about 22 degrees) The blending valve is set at about 38 degrees. Your thoughts and advice are welcome: Thank you, Wozza.

We used Cemfloor - very impressed with it. 50mm thick, dries fast, no laitance, very flat.

Do what PeterW says - I've done it a few times. If you do want to remove a can from a gun, spray a bit of cleaner in the can nozzle straight away - same for the gun, clean it as soon as you remove the can. I have left a can attached to a gun for a few months and it still worked fine.

@Big Jimbo We need a picture.

Stainless steel insulation washers (discs) are about a tenner for 100 from "the auction site" - I used loads to hang my PIR under the rafters ?

Ours all seem to have snapped fine. I think these are the older clips but its still the same principal. Watch this video from 2:12 onwards https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiQVjQe0mlY