wozza

Use 1mm discs for steel - a 5 pack will cost about £6 from Screwfix As Roys says, keep that stone disc for stone finishing etc - get a diamond disc for brick / concrete. Almost any disc will cut plastic pipe fine.

Hi All, When flushing my toilet the water level in the shower drops by about 5mm - it then rises back up and fluctuates up and a down a bit, there does not appear to be any water lost. The end of the soil pipe is sealed. If I remove the seal and fit either a 110mm or 40mm AAV then there is no change - the water still drops about 5 mm then fluctuates up and down for a few seconds - there does not appear to be any water lost. The sink has a Mcalpine anti syphon trap, I have tried with this blanked off as well to see if it makes a difference and it doesnt. I have even tried flushing the loo and pouring a bucket of water into it at the same time, but again the result was the same. If vent the soil pipe into the room then I do not get any movement in the water levels. So it appears that I do have a very small amount pressure in the pipes when flushing the loo but not enough to activate the AAVs or the anti syphon trap. Do I need to be worried about such a small movement of the water level? Should I vent the pipe to atmosphere or fit an AAV as a precaution (venting to ATM will be a ball ache but do able) Thanks, Wozza.

Benchmarx are 18mm see here: Kitchen cabinets | Benchmarx Kitchens & Joinery DIY KitchenS have 8mm cabinet backs, Benchmarx have 12mm Benchmarx also now do a dark carbon coloured cabinet - (not yet showing on website) We have just had a very competitive quote from Benchmarx, I have compared Howdens, Wickes and Benchmarx and a local manufacturer (factory is at the rear of the showroom) like for like and for me Benchmarx is winning.

When we did our floor above the garage that was exposed to the elements for about 6 weeks we used Egger Protect - the price was about the same for the Peel Clean - the advantage of the Protect is that is has a longer exposure limit of 60 days.

When we did our en-suite in hex tiles we measured measured and measured to get the best fit possible - one thing to consider is which orientation you want the tiles - pointy ends horizontal or vertical if that makes sense?

I fitted my first ever concealed cistern a few months ago in my guest WC. It is a Grohe SL Rapid - it was easy to fit and works well, we are happy with it. I bought it as a complete kit with frame, cistern, pan etc from a local showroom as it was a very good offer. The only problem I had was trying to attach the pan - I held the pan whilst SWMBO turned the Allen key to tighten the bolts clockwise - whats wrong with that you may ask as clockwise is the correct direction to tighten - Not when looking from above so its actually anti clockwise ? - After some choice words we swapped and it all went smoothly

The link you included was for 2 boards at £119.60 so PIR would be cheaper at that price. Have you considered using PIR seconds?

We have 150mm rafters with 100mm PIR between and 75mm PIR below. We then have a 75mm service void for lighting etc. We have Redland Regent tiles so not too dissimilar to your Double Romans. We used a lot of half tiles between the Velux to get the tiles to finish better so a full or fullish tile is adjacent to the window rather than a small strip of tile.

You can get 150mm PIR cheaper than that

Many years ago whilst I was a lad, I remember watching my dad (a master carpenter) using his hammer. After a while and hammering in of numerous nails, he rubbed the face of his hammer on brick surface, I asked him why he did it. He said that the face of the hammer becomes shiny and smooth with use and it can slip off the nails, "roughing it up takes the shine off so it doesnt slip" he said. I guess as Vijay says, it probably to prevent it from slipping off the nail.

You could fit your timber noggins in the steel then battens onto the noggins and wall - you can then screw the PB to these and also screw up through the bottom PB into them.

Hi All, Looking for some advice on how you would tackle this: Normally the dishwasher waste connects into the sink trap via a little spigot connection but my kitchen layout has the dishwasher set in a unit perpendicular to the sink and a bit of a distance away. I have a 110mm soil pipe in the corner, so the sink waste can exit the sink trap, feed along the wall in the cupboard void and then into the soil pipe What would be the best way to connect the dishwasher waste? I have a service void behind the cabinets but how and where would be best to connect it? What would be the best fitting to use to connect the dishwasher to the waste pipe? Thanks, Wozza.

Copper Pipe will fit straight in the JG fittings

Looks very nice ?

You could try a smaller cutting wheel - I believe its an 8mm wheel that is recommended for porcelain.

If the use of such a button would be to cut the power to everything, will you be fitting emergency lighting?

I also used Dritherm 32 in my extension - easy to use. I would have also used thermally broken lintels but I only recently found out that they make them.

This is so true.

We had a 500mm wide one fitted with a new kitchen - we had loads of issues with it within the first year, called them out a few times to adjust etc. After about 18 months it got very difficult to use and was not longer under warranty (check the small print with virtually any kitchen company as they wear out) I removed it and fitted a number of Blum internal drawers - much better and it held much more stuff.

I have Solar PV, and I have a disc meter - when generating more than using, it winds backwards for the maximum of one revolution then just stops spinning.

You don't have much choice - the window has to be fitted a certain distance from the tile below to allow the flashing etc to fit I have only fitted them to my roof with Redland Regent (concrete tiles will a bold roll style pattern) - if your tiles are flat you may be able to get creative and cut them in half etc but if not like mine its a certain distance from the tile. Your other option is to adjust the coursing / gauge so the tiles fit to the window. Look at the fitting instructions for the window and you will see.

Yes - when mine were fitted the window has to be within a certain distance form the tile

What roof covering are you having - tile type can/will affect where the Velux can go.

@lizzie has had a Bora hob for a while now - iirc its a recirculating one - perhaps she could offer some advice - there was a thread with of a picture of hers.