wozza

I think it looks good, a lighter colour would contrast / stand out more. Like a lot of others have said, its bound to fade to a lighter colour.

My advice would be to go on the local planning website and search for recent planning applications near to / around your location - then see who the architects' were and get them to quote you. You are spending a lot of money so get more than two quotes.

Enlite do a E5 that can angled I believe - you could try it and angle it away from the shower head.

Are you having an American style fridge freezer? your plan shows just a freezer, and in the location it is, you may have trouble opening the doors - the doors on our American Fridge Freezer open quite wide and if you don't open them fully wide you cannot pullout some of the internal drawers correctly. You have plenty of space to the right of the sink? I would definitely do as Lizzie has suggested, take your plan to a few kitchen showrooms, and get them to draw up a plan. I have done this recently and you will be surprised at the different ideas that the planners will come up with.

Thank you, tickets received

Thanks Nick. We have got a few builders coming over the next week or so to have a look and give rough quotes etc, will be interesting to compare what they all suggest.

When I fitted my current extractor I was surprised that 150mm round (or rectangular equivalent 220mm x 90mm) was the recommended size for most if not all modern extractors. Compare make a very good duct (round or rectangular) that has got vanes in the bends to direct the airflow and thus reduce noise and turbulence. As Nick from Wales has said, rigid ducting in straight runs with as less bends as possible, is what you need to aim for - things like multi slat wall vents can also effect noise and extraction rates, and definitely try to avoid using the flexible stuff, each little ridge creates turbulence which means more noise and less extraction. On my nw extractor I will be using the products below: Naber wall vents with triple draught flaps, they also make ducting (might be affiliated with Compare). https://www.naber.de/ventilation-technology/flow-150/thermobox-150/ Compare Ducting http://www.compairducting.co.uk/

Hi All, Looking for some advice to better educate and equip myself before getting some builders in for quotes for a small part of our conversion. Could you clever people read through and advise please if anything doesn't sound right or could be improved. We are planning to convert our single storey attached garage to a bedroom and also extend upwards. The inner wall is against the house, so no issues, the outer wall is mainly single brick but has double brick "pillars" every so often. Our architect has suggested that the inner wall can be built on top of the floor slab level against the "pillars so it will create a cavity wall in the majority of the wall. We then will insulate the cavity and also consider a small amount of insulated plasterboard on the inside. The door end will be bricked up with a window. Once the wall is built we will need to raise the floor about 120mm to become level with the rest of the house. - the garage has an open gully trap drain in the corner that connects direct to the sewer and has a waste pipe from an adjacent WC sink flowing into it, this will need to be sealed up. We have planned to put a wet room en suite in the conversion - the toilet and sink waste will be routed through the end wall so that is not an issue. The shower waste will need to be much lower so my thoughts are that we could connect this to the gully drain as we do not seem to have any other options unless we raise the shower height. How would you guys raise the floor, concrete, wooden frame etc? If using concrete (my preferred option as it would be solid) would you sandwich a thin layer of insulation board? say 20mm between the existing slab and new floor? The shower waste will be diagonally across from the drain, so when digging out the floor would you connect diagonally across which would be the shortest route? Would you use 50mm solvent weld waste pipe? Hope this all makes sense. Wozza.

Hi All, First post on here - I searched for Bora hobs and have read all of the posts on here so I have joined to share my two pence worth We are about to start on a new extension that will mean a new kitchen, so we have started to research new appliances (we have currently have Siemens appliances and have had them for around 8 years) We had watched loads of online videos of extractor hobs and were sceptical that CGI may have been used to show the steam flowing into the extractors. We had a demo a couple of weeks ago on the Siemens Extractor hob and also the Bora Basic hob on the same day - (had to travel 40+ miles to see them both) I desperately wanted the Siemens to be better than the Bora but it isn't - the Bora we demo`d was a recirculating model (but it didn't have the filters fitted as it was new to the showroom) The Bora was quieter and extracted better than the Siemens and the vent on the Bora is less obtrusive and quick to take apart for cleaning We are going to buy a Bora Basic Surface (BFIA) and have it exhausting through the wall, the Bora now comes with a totally black exhaust vent.

Hi Everyone, We have submitted plans for our large open plan extension. I will have lots of questions as I like to understand how everything is done / works and hopefully I can offer advice as well. Wozza.