wozza

I did this on my vaulted MF ceiling area but I used small strips of wood and screwed through to join the boards.

Hi All, I am about to fit the plasterboard to my ceilings. Most of what I have seen online shows or instructs you to fit the boards perpendicularly across the joists, which obviously gives you lots of unsupported joints. Why not fit the boards along the joists so the joints are supported? One of the rooms is about 2300mm wide and the joists are spaced at 400mm centres - so a full board will fit with the joists - the only joins would then be on the joists, if I go across the joists I will have a large joint that is unsupported. I have also fitted counter batterns to another ceiling as the joist are twisted, skewed, not level and spaced at varying centres - the counter batterns are all at 400mm centres so again fitting the boards along the batterns would give more supported joins. Your advice, thoughts and ideas are welcomed, Thanks Wozza.

Looks like textured masonry paint

I doubt if you would get a full size free standing American FF in that space and be able to open the left door fully (Assuming the boiler will be staying) You may get a 700mm wide one (or slightly bigger) in if you had a 400mm cupboard on the left (assuming the current cupboards are 600 wide and the boiler needs to stay)

The biggest issue you will find with American style FFs is the way that the doors open. The FF needs to stick out further into the room to allow the doors to open.

If it were mine, I would consider putting in an en-suite for bed 3 where the loft hatch space area is. Move family bath, master en-suite and walk in to the left a bit so master door can be put on same wall as family bath door.

Have you claimed your rewards from your Velux windows?

Does a 50mm pipe fit inside the T drain so that a Jubilee clip can be used to clamp it tight?

I cant comment on your issue, but I can comment on Telford and Wrekin Council Planning - Bunch of ^&*%^

https://www.joinerysoftwoods.co.uk/finger-jointed-laminated-timbe

My Old man is a retired carpenter. When I was a lad, I used to watch him sharpen his tools on a Sunday. He had a jig that he made to hold his saws (about chest height). Once the saw was mounted he used a special adjustable tool to bend every other tooth, he would then flip the saw round and bend the other teeth. Then using a file, he would sharpen the teeth. Once the saws were done, he would then open up the his oil stone and sharpen his chisels and plane blades, I think he used to move them in a figure eight pattern on the stone. He used to spend a good couple of hours looking after his tools. I remember he had a hand drill and a brace and bits - his electric drill was rarely used - his tools were kept in two wooden boxes that he made whilst training. I have a couple of screwdrivers bolsters scrapers wood chisels that I will never let him see - he would probably give me a clout around the ear if he saw the state of them. Tools today are not as well made and a lot are made to be throw away.

Nod, Will these do obtuse angles - 110 degree, 130 degree? Are they Gyproc?

Is the 120mm Kingspan being fitted between the joists or above?

Thanks Nod, not sure what the pic is supposed to be, I can only see a black rectangle. Is this tape any good? https://www.toolstation.com/gyproc-fibatape-xtreme-plasterboard-joint-tape/p58759

Do you mean a line of Scrim tape?

Hi All, I want to fix some angle beads and stop beads to the plaster boards around my roof windows - the sides will be angle beads as they are 90 degree corners, the top and bottoms will need stop beads as they are angled to allow more light into the room. I want to do it myself before the plasterer arrives so I can ensure that they are straight and square. Whats the best way to fix them, I have read about using screws, staples, hot melt glue, grab adhesive or skim plaster. Also does it matter which way around the stop beads go - should I hook the open bead end over the board or have it facing out? Thanks, Wozza.

My delivery of Plasterboard and PIR has been cancelled - no one has any available and all local merchants are closed or only supplying hospitals etc. I just hope that the prices do not rocket up once things start to get back to normal.

The square nut that you refer to is called a tail - you can buy new radiator tails. The TRV should really go on the flow side (easy to check - just see which pipe gets warm first) but most TRVs are now bi-directional and the good ones work fine on the flow or return.

The Ultratape stuff from Toolstation is the best I have used, I found it better than the Screwfix stuff - used about 20 rolls so far. One tip I can give you is to keep the backing intact, remove what you need from the backing and leave it long, then its easy to remove from the backing. If you tear off strips and then try to remove the backing, you will end up pulling your hair out, way too fiddly. Doing a floor is easy as you can do it in long lengths, but ceilings are a different ball game. I used a lanyard around my neck to hold the roll, I then pulled off the foil from the backing leaving it long. I also gained a knack off kinking the foil down the length (especially when using long pieces, the kink stops it rolling up on itself. I also found wearing one glove helped. I would now consider myself an expert aluminium taper.

I bought a load of 120mm PIR a few months ago for our floor, (think It was 32 boards). Best price was local builders merchant (Jewson) they beat all of the online places by a few quid per board. It arrived direct from the supplier. If it doesn't have t be exactly 120mm you could try one of the seconds places.

I am currently paying £11.55 (+ vat) for 100mm Rockwool RWA45 (600mm wide) from local Travis Perkins (job lot ordered and not collected)

Twist the clip 180- degrees - then fit noggin Or Will the clip fit on the 45 bend?

I agree, it doesn't look right. Also has the roofer considered the distance from the bottom of the window to the top of the tile that sits under the window - it doesn't look right to me. Download the Velux fitting instructions and you will see what I mean - IIRC the bottom tile position in relation to the bottom of the window is more critical than the top (to get the window and flashing to fit correctly)

Try this: https://brickhunter.com/bricks?filter[colour]=grey&filter[material]=concrete

I have had a Varilight V pro touch dimming 6 Enlite gu10 leds for about 5 years - works really well.