wozza

Shop around for much better prices - My Grohe frame and Euro pan - came as a complete kit for just around £325 from a local bathroom shop less than 12 months ago, I am happy with it. I would fit a wall hung basin (or semi pedestal basin) if fitting a wall hung toilet on the same wall as it looks like you are building the wall out. I have used Abacus boards in my wet areas only (plus the kst adhesive, tanking kit and no leaks tape kit) - I like it and would use it again - I got it all for a very good price in the sale from Rubber Duck Bathrooms - (it was all delivered straight from Abacus) - I got my stainless steel washers cheap from ebay.

Use a rubber joint as @Vijay has pointed out - about a tenner from most places.

I cant really compare to others, I have had Virgin since it was dial up (CableInet) This was a test I just ran on mine:

Do this ^^^ On our extension we took out a large area of the existing floor so we could insulate in properly - the hall has the old uninsulated floor - the difference is night and day.

I have 5 solar Velux working from a single remote - it is the digital version with a screen, I have a few different programs set up to do different things. I bought the digital version from Ebay as Velux no longer sell them - they are now selling for around £100 but I only paid £25 for it, Velux are pushing the phone / tablet app version that requires a hub box or the climate control box. I do believe that you can pair the "Standard" open / close button remote to a number of windows - I have never used mine (I have 5 spare) Also I originally had 4 solar windows and 1 standard as we didn't think we would be opening it much - I bought the kit to convert it to solar - easy to do and the cost is about the same as paying the extra for the solar version.

When I did mine, I used small pieces of timber fixed to the sides of the joists / rafters to stop the PIR being pushed too far - this is especially helpful where you have a long length of PIR butted up against another piece of PIR. I then foam filled (expanding foam - use a proper gun) any small gaps. I then taped over all joints with foil tape straight onto the rafters / adjoining PIR. I would not tape any cut sides that are being pushed between timbers as it would not grip as well.

Some of mine were a bit bowed, some a bit curved - I sent a few back to be re pressed as metal fixings were not all the way in.

Do this - a wall starter would be much easier.

Question for boiling tap owners: Do you need somewhere to place the cup or pan whilst filling it with boiling water? We are considering a Quooker flex tap, the sink that we are planning to get is 700mm wide and 250mm deep - the only tap hole is in the middle so 350mm from either side of the sink / drainer. So if filling a cup or a pan we will need to hold it in one hand (weight could be an issue if a big pan) or place it in the bottom of the sink which would be quite a bit higher than the tap, so would you consider that to be an issue? The only other option is to modify the sink so that the tap hole is close to the drainer so that the cup / pan can be placed there when filling.

I fitted mine against an outside wall is a narrow cloakroom about 1 meter wide and built a timber frame around it so wall thickness was not a concern. Looking at the spec sheet it looks like it shows a minimum of 145/165mm if using a 110mm diameter waste.

I cannot comment on brands of toilets, we have recently fitted a Grohe (Rapid XL Frame and Euro pan) and an Ideal Standard Close Coupled Aquablade toliet - both of which we are really happy with. The two large shower trays we fitted were from Traymate uk - we ditched the included wastes and used McAlpine. The Shower glass (two enclosures) was from Kudos (I think) - 10mm glass - very happy with them. The Vanity units are from various suppliers. We fitted 3 mixer taps - first two Bristan and then one Hansgrohe (all about the same price) - I would choose Hansgrohe if doing again

QS Supplies messed us about a bit - some stuff we ordered from QS came from another retailer (Ideal Bathrooms) - Returns were a nightmare. We got our Grohe frame and pan as a complete kit from a local bathroom showroom - it was on special offer, and cheaper than anywhere else.

Reginox Amanzi 3-in-1 Instant Hot Water Tap in Chrome | Costco UK

I used Abacus Elements stuff - boards, tape compound, neoprene collars etc

I think this is from Document F - and if I recall correctly it matches the details on our plans.

Our Velux roof windows have a ventilation setting on the handle / remote control.

Hi @Coffeepotclaire I cannot comment on Elica extractors as I have never seen / used one. We were very happy we our Luxair, we had it vented externally, and we had a couple of spare grease filters (not very expensive) so we always had a clean one to put in whilst the other was in the dishwasher. We had a 90cm curved glass version and the matching glass splashback. If we didn't have a Bora hob, then we would have probably opted for another Luxair of some type. Have you considered an extractor hob?

We previously had a Luxair hood. Luxair Quality Cooker Hoods - Free 7 Years Warranty (luxairhoods.com) We had it for about 11 years, after about 4 years we had a problem with one of the LEDs in one of the buttons not working, they sent an engineer out and replaced it within a couple of days of reporting it. Very powerful (if you opened one of the kitchen doors form another room about an inch you could feel it pulling the door open and the air rushing in) Most decent extractors now use 6 inch / 150mm ducting to get the best airflow.

And why "to code" on the bolts and steel reinforcing ? And is that an external wall without a foundation?

I think the regs state 150mm (or two courses) below DPC

Yes you can, you just need a 40mm boss adaptor. You can use a rubber boss or a solvent weld boss.

Is there not a chance that such a small pipe so close to the surface will freeze in the colder months?

As others have said - the trim is missing - the black tape is what they use to seal / edge double glazed units - most double glazed units have a tape edge seal that is then protected / hidden by the trim and rubber seal.

Yeah room with the CU backs onto the Kitchen, the cables have already been fitted and plastered over so it would be a lot of work to do and the switches would be above or next to the CU. Will have to put the isolators in the cupboards then.

Hi All, We are currently planning our new kitchen and are coming close to ordering it. I have a few questions regarding the electrics so I can be pre educated before I speak to the electrician and kitchen fitter. The two ovens that we are having will be in the middle of a bank of four tall larder units. The supply cables are fed to the approximate location of the ovens and each oven has its own MCB in the CU. The only place that we can fit isolator switches is inside the larder units, either to the side, above or below the ovens. Do we legally have to have isolator switches? If not is it good practice to have them even if not visible or easy to get straight to? - the CU is in the adjacent room and each oven can be isolated individually as each oven is wired individually to its own MCB. If putting switches into the cupboards should they be recessed or surface mounted? Also in our old Kitchen the Dishwasher lead / plug was fed through a hole into the adjacent cabinet - it was then plugged into a switchless socket that was surface mounted in the cabinet - the supply to this socket was then fed from a flex outlet on the wall behind, that was then fed from an isolator switch above- is that the correct way to do it? Many Thanks, Wozza.