wozza

3 Pcs Digital LCD Thermometer Temperature Monitor with External Probe for Fridge 696571958514 | eBay

We had exactly the same issue this time last year last year. We had a few areas in the house where warm / moist air could enter the loft due to the work we were doing (soil pipe boxing in corner of house was open and goes straight into the loft), and we had a few downlights removed and a small gap / open section of ceiling in the temp kitchen on the first floor. Once all of these areas were sealed the problem stopped and it hasn't happened again.

Why is the plaster damp? Are the walls solid, stud or dot and dab? Are you replacing the bath? I would consider removing the plasterboard and then use Abacus elements / Wedi boards or similar.

I have done it twice before, TVs are not as heavy now as when I first wall mounted one. The first time, I cut out the PB and mounted the bracket directly to the wall so its solid and the TV sits nice and close to the wall, now on the third TV on this bracket - the first TV (one of the first plasmas) weighed in at over 70kg The second time I did it I used Corefix plasterboard fixings - they have a steel sleeve that fits through the plasterboard and into the block. I have also used them for hanging heavy cupboards etc. They would be my choice.

They are easy - just like @PeterW says, watch this video if you want. How to use a hollow wall anchor setting tool - YouTube

Yes - the primer is used to ensure a good bond - whether its tiles or matt you should use primer - its not that expensive and its easy to apply.

S1 tile adhesives are deformable and withstand deflection of more than 2.5mm and less than 5mm. S2 tile adhesives are deformable and withstand deflection of more than 5mm. Are you using a decoupling matt?

We have got a Grohe 1000 thermostatic shower - it has been used at least once per day (except for holidays etc) for the past 11 years and its still as good as the day it was installed. When I bought it the chap in the in a really old local plumber merchants (been there for years and had bits stashed in every nook and corner but sadly closed a few years ago) said they were bullet proof, I have got to agree with him. We have very hard water and have never had any issues with it. When flushing toilets the temp stays pretty much constant. The only thing that I could say negative about it is that the body gets warm after prolonged use - the two newer versions that we have recently fitted send the cold around the body to keep it cool.

Made To Measure Loft Hatch - Bespoke Loft Hatch - Buy Online (tradeaccesspanels.co.uk)

Can you use a fire retardant membrane?

Restack the top layer or two by removing every other block and then alternating the next layer to allow airflow - then cover them.

A weep hole is there to allow water to escape the cavity so it doesnt pool inside - the DPM that you can see is to protect the lintel / opening from water - they usually call them cavity trays but its just a piece of DPM, (you can get plastic ones as well). Watch this video: Bricklaying Guide -How To do a Cavity Tray Over Lintel - YouTube

Yeah a manual Rubi cutter - will do up to about 130cm, it had a new 8mm cutting wheel fitted, about 2 cuts did not break clean otherwise it was good, and we cut 1 full tile into 12 equal strips for skirting and it cut ok.

Also if you are going to use an angle grinder, dont use a normal diamond blade, use a tile (porcelain) blade.

Big Rubi cutter for our 120cm tiles - using a brand new small wheel (8mm I think)

We also had Cemfloor. The screed installer put expansion strips (low density foam) across the doorways and he also pointed out that it might crack in two places - it cracked in one of them, he advised that hairline cracks are nowt to worry about but could be filled if wanted. Our UFH heating is working well, and the floor was nice and flat. We laid Ditra matting before the tiles.

I think that @nod is referring to this stuff - Glasroc H TileBacker (british-gypsum.com)

How are you breaking them off? We used the perfect level master system, the clips break / broke off easily when kicking them or hitting them in the direction of the grout line. See my post below - shows a link to a video (different brand but shows how easy they snap when hit along the grout line). Bathroom starts ! - Page 30 - Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms - BuildHub.org.uk

Yes - very good cant fault them, I have never used any other type, but when I compared the Abacus to Wedi (in a tile shop) there was no difference. I used the 900 x 2400 x 12mm boards in the wet areas, and MR plasterboard everywhere else.

I used Abacus elements boards (same as Wedi etc) - why? Because they were on a mega cheap offer at the time (got them from Rubber Duck Bathrooms, but came direct from Abacus) You can get the stainless steel fixing washers cheap from ebay

We used 3.6n Fibolite without any issues. Ask the builders why they will crack and if they have used them before, are they confusing them with other blocks?

As everyone has said - what are you trying to achieve, what is included, does the whole floor need doing, what is the current floor status, what is the required end result?

The amount of time it must have taken to thread all the pipes ?

Definitely looks like a copper pipe capped off. And that perp looks half empty.