wozza

Can you drill the hole into the soil pipe then rotate it so its higher up?

I used Dritherm 32 in 100mm cavity - if you shop around and buy in bulk you can get good deals. "Gulp" I just did a quick google - the prices have shot up from last year.

I have quite a few Makita LXT tools and a big ish corded SDS drill. - I rate them. I once got told by a chap who worked in a tool sales and repair place that Makita tools had fewer returns and repairs than other brands. I have had a couple of good deals from passiontec - my impact driver was over £30 cheaper than anyone else and it was shipped from Germany in three days.

There are a few fast drying screeds out there = we used Cemfloor and are very happy with it.

I also have an intrest in this question, I have a room that is just under 2.4m wide so if I put the boards with the joist, is there any point in staggering the boards as it would create unsupported joints. Also if you board the ceiling first, then the walls, do you need perimeter noggins as the ceiling boards will rest on the wall boards?

I considered getting one, but instead went with two deamen, a pair of gloves (size small) and a tenacious other half.

Hi All, I understand what MR (Moisture Resistant) Plasterboard is and its properties, however I am questioning if it is worth using if you are going to skim coat over it? Its a bit late now reqardless as I have boarded out most of the two bathrooms except for one ceiling and two dot and dab walls (with a combination of Abacus boards for the wet areas and MR plasterboard everywhere else) Also I have seen the Mould resistant Fiba tape - is it worth using? Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks for the Pics @PeterW and @ProDave they look good. My bedroom vaulted ceiling has less of an angle (about 24 degrees I think) but it will still look good - need to speak to my plasterer. What are peoples thoughts (sorry to hijack thread) about curves on Acute angles? I have two large areas with acute angles but not sure if it would look right.

V2 looks much better ?

Wow, Loads of great advice, I have a very similar ceiling (didnt think to score and snap board or fit a skim) but my joints are a little bit tighter. Pete those curves look great - keeping the page open to show swimbo when she comes home for lunch. I have also used loads of screws - is it a problem? Finally a question about MR plasterboard - I too have used MR boards, but when you cover them with a skim coat does it make them pointless? or is the skim more MR than normal PB?

Very nice, the stairs look brilliant. How did you source the timber - is the floor engineered or solid? How do you plan to finish it, oil, varnish?

50mm Wow - thats some expansion - if the floor / joists / glue expanded by that much it would surely tear itself apart? Caberdek says this: Perimeter expansion gap: It is important to leave an expansion gap of 2 mm per metre run of board between the edge of the floor and the perimeter wall or any solid abutment (minimum gap 10 mm). For larger areas it is necessary to incorporate intermediate expansion gaps to provide the necessary allowance for possible movements, particularly in corridor applications. Attention must be paid to maintaining expansion gaps at all times during construction. Expansion and contraction provision: An expansion provision should be allowed of 2 mm per metre plus 1 mm for every metre above 12 m of the width or breadth of the area.

I used D4 adhesive, brushed on, yes it does give a slight lip as it bubbles, but any water soon evaporates off.

We have got two "Tray Mate Uk" shower trays, one is 1700 x 800 the other is 1700 x 900, they come with shallow traps, but I have used McAlpine traps. We were going to get the none slip versions but when we looked at the samples they are nasty, they have a really rough surface, but I would say very non slip. If we find the normal trays are slippy then we will probably fit some anti slip stickers like someone else on here did, https://www.tmuk.net/TMUK.html How much depth for the waste have you got, Mcalpine do shallow traps and even a vertical trap.

If its his mistake, then he should rectify it at his cost. Is it all three hinges? Its a door lining so its most likely to get plenty of use / abuse - needs to either be replaced or have a section of timber fitted. I would be tempted to take out the the rest of the material along the complete edge and replace with a full strip from top to bottom, the door stop should then cover the join.

Hi Blob, I aint done it yet. We still have not got the tray (due to concentrating on other things and also Covid19), I have done the downstairs tray, but that was straight onto the screed floor. I too would be interested in the best adhesive to use, I did speak to Egger - waste of time didn't want to help, and also the shower tray company (Tray Mate UK) and they said to just use sand and cement 1 to 5 as long as the floor is solid and doesn't move.

I would check that the tiles you choose are not slippery when wet, could be an accident waiting to happen. Have you considered the interlocking plastic garage tiles?

Could anyone point me to a link for the joist hangers, can only seem to find masonry ones.

Another question. The joists will run across the garage, one of the joists will run along the back wall - would it be a good idea to fix it to the wall?

Its possible, but a lot more work and not as easy to get level? the old wall cavity is between 50 and 60mm, the new wall cavity is 100mm, so its possible but tight if I wanted 100mm bearing, would also probably have to cut out the cavity insulation to get the joist on far enough to swing into place.

Floor is for storage - but the missus will certainly load it up, the width will be either 2.4 or 3.6 meters so chipboard fits easily, the span will be 3.7 meters. So if using resin studs, how do you go about drilling them to get them accurate or do you do it all at once? Would you do it like this? Fix rim joist with a couple of screws and plugs just to get it level and hold it in place. Drill through joist and into brick / block - I assume that you do not want to go all of the way through the brick / block? Squirt in resin and screw in the studs. Wait 24 hours and then tighten nuts? Do you mean the pre bend type masonry hangers or the ones that you fold over? Thanks, Wozza.

Hi All, I want to fit a mezzanine floor in my garage. What are the best fixing to use to fix the rim joist? How many to use? Fix along the top and the bottom or the middle? The one wall is the existing house wall, London brick and strong mortar, the other wall is new and built with Fibolite blocks. Probably going with 400mm centres so the floor is solid. I have considered either 100mm or 120mm M8 coach bolts with washers and plugs, - the rim joist will most likely be either 6 x 2 or 8 x 2. Any thoughts or suggestions welcomed Thanks, Wozza.

IIRC Egger recommend 1 bottle of D4 adhesive for 6 boards, I think I used around 1 bottle for 5 boards, and as already said, it drips so protect anything underneath that you dont want glue on. Also remember to paint the glue onto any cut edges to seal them - get a few cheap brushes for this.

I wouldn't necessarily trust a Plumber to supply your boiler - he will get what he can make the most profit on.

Just did some research and watched some videos on this, seems mainly to be an Aussie method but I think its a good idea - on some of those videos the plasterboards are massive, like about 6 meters long - three blokes to lift and fix.