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About Me


Found 5 results

  1. Good morning all. We're doing a stable conversion and, to give us more space upstairs, have decided to use steel beams to replace the attic trusses shown on our original drawings. Building Control seem happy with most of the calculations we've submitted but our structural engineer has indicated we need a universal column (203 x 203 x 46 UC) to use as a lintel spanning a 4 metre opening for bifolding doors in an outside 9" solid wall. The problem is that because the beam supports the full width of the wall (as well as the end of a beam supporting the floor above) there's no room to do much about insulating it from either side. How would you suggest overcoming the problem of cold bridging in a case like this? Building Control have understandably asked for this information and I've no idea how to reply. They also want to know how the steel is treated and weather protected. Your advice would be much appreciated. Thankyou
  2. Hi guys/gals, I’m a newbie on here so hope I’ve put this in a relevant place. Next March/April the loft conversion and rear extension are kicking off on my 2 bed end of terrace bungalow. Me and my brother will be doing about 70% of the work, I’m and Electrician and also can do plumbing, getting in a friend to do the roof and rear dormer (as it’s a truss roof). so getting to the point, me and my brother will be removing all of the existing tiles and bringing down all trusses and existing joists. Tell me if this sounds hopeful, but I was looking at getting a 20M x 15M tarpaulin and covering the entire roof, and just putting in a temporary ridge to let the water slope off. This will have eyelet holes and be fixed to external walls. Firstly, would you recommend rear and front scaffolding at eaves height to remove the tiles/roof (if so, any idea on costs)? Or could we just have a movable tower hired? secondly, I need to talk to my chippy friend about this really, but would we need scaffolding for the new timbers being installed? I was thinking that the ceiling joists would be installed from wall plate to wall plate and then that would give us a floor to stand on for installing the rest above? Once all in I can put down the breathable membrane to make it water tight. thankyou in advance for any advice. Here is a picture of the plans just to give you an idea.
  3. Hello I know this topic has already been extensively covered on the forum but there is however a slight variation which i am looking for a solution please.I have spoken to two builders who cannot provide a suitable explantation. Overview Proposed new build extension (drawing below) with 3600mm x 2100mm opening to accommodate bi-fold doors. I have been advised to have a rsj installed above the doors due to weight of roof design. 450mm thick wall construction details as follows (photograph below) Outer 150mm facing in natural stone 100mm block 50mm void 50mm insulation 100mm block The drawing (below) is from an architect.He has not provided a drawing where to position an rsj above the intended bi-fold door. Speaking to a couple of builders they suggest a wide steel plate be welded to a rsj in order to achieve the required width . My questions are - Although feasible - this would not stop thermal bridging? - Where would the bi fold doors sit in relation to the stone / block work - would this also be an issue? Any advise or comments would be appreciated. Thank you very much for any assistance
  4. Hi All, I'm looking for some suggestions for how best to insulate / stop cold bridging across a steel RSJ and vertical steel post that I've had to add to support a glazed gable. I don't have any details at the moment so I want to try and get a plan of action together this before I go and ask BC. I've found to date that they're not always the most helpful ! but that could just be my bad luck! I've got Alu windows going into so was planning on cladding both the steels externally in alu and internally was thinking of plastering the horizontal and alu clad the vertical post. All help welcome! Thanks Alex.
  5. Can anyone point me at the latest wisdom on attaching timber roof plates to steel beams ..? We have two purlins that have the rafters up against them and I was expecting a small birdsmouth on each to slot onto the top plate attached to the RSJ. Previously I've used a spit/Hilti gun to pin them to the top webs however I've been told that's no longer the correct approach ... So I am assuming it's drill and Coach bolt but is that correct and what spacing ..? SE can't help as he just did the steel sizings and doesn't do domestic work anyway.