wozza

Cant comment if there are better out there, but shop around, you will get them much cheaper. The curved glass will probably be as much as the window - can you go with a flat one? Velux have double rewards at the moment (Cash back vouchers)

As already said, what do you want? Consider buying bulk to reduce price but make sure you can get more easily. What frost rating do you want / need?

I did mine a couple of months ago. We laid the 120mm PIR on the sub base, in some areas it rocked a little, so we adjusted the boards so that the board joints were on the high points so it didn't rock - the boards are never 100% flat. A couple of boards moved up / down a few mm when walked on - when asked the floor screeder laughed and said that is fine, in fact its one of the best floors I have seen, I get floors that are like seesaws and the screed holds the boards flat. We had Cemfloor screed - we fitted expansion strips where recommended - we have a couple of hairline cracks in the screed exactly where the floor screeder said it would crack due to the size and shape - he said that hairline cracks are nothing to worry about and that if I was concerned, then just use an epoxy crack filling kit. I see that you are in the Midlands - PM me if you want the details of our screeder and the UFH fitter - I would recommend them both.

Hi All, I have a narrow room that has metal web joists at 400mm centres - they span 2300mm - the floor is covered with Egger protect (glued with D4) - so the floor is very solid, the joist supplier calculated that 600mm centres would be fine but I wanted 400mm to ensure that it was solid. When constructing the floor, the builder doubled up with an extra joist to support the non load bearing stud wall above, this seemed a bit overkill to me at the time, but he said we always double up the joists when putting a stud wall above (he had never used Metal webs before and was very set in his ways) I need to get 15mm hot and cold water supplies into the stud wall from below for a shower. I am aware that you must not drill / cut etc any part of a metal web joist. My original idea was to place the stud wall sole plate over the edge of one of the joists so the majority of it is over the joist, then drill up through the floor and through the sole plate without touching the top chord of the metal web joist. My new idea is, that as I have an extra reduced centre metal web joist, could I drill through the top chord of the extra Metal web joist as shown below Your thoughts?

Hi All, Had a roofer quote us for around 30 meters of Lead flashing a couple of months ago - he turned up this week and did the job. When he viewed the job, we spoke for a while and one of the last things I said to him was "so you will use code 4 lead,? you will do a neat and tidy job? and the lead will be tight on the tiles?" he replied yes. He turned up this week and did the job and I am shocked at the quality of work. They have broken at least 8 roof tiles, the corners of the lead look terrible, the lead is not dressed tight onto the tiles so its not weather and vermin proof and finally as I found out last night (thanks to storm Dennis) one of the overlap joints leaks. I asked him about the broken tiles and he said that some were already broken -there was only one - and that his lads went round changing the broken ones - the only tiles available to change them with was my pile of tiles with broken corners, missing lugs etc. I know that it inevitable that tiles will get broken when working on a roof, but to leave them broken and / or use my tiles is poor. I asked him why the lead was not dressed down tight onto the tiles - he said that the old lead was code 3 and that the new code 4 lead will split and need welding if he tries to dress it down onto the tiles, this I believe to be unacceptable as wind, rain, snow, birds, insects etc can easily get in. I asked about the corners and he said that he could come back and put them right - wait until you see the pics. He does not know about the leak as we found it last night - I have proven it was the overlap as I got very wet covering it up - the leak stopped once covered. I have not paid him anything. What are my options - do I legally have to let him try to put it right? I think I have lost faith in his ability and do not want to let him back onto my roof. Thanks Wozza.

That shower waste you have looks like a Wirquin Twisto - I got supplied one with my shower tray, I took one look at it and went and got a McAlpine shower waste. I don't know how they perform against each other but the build, fitting method and quality of the McAlpine is far superior.

Hmm, The only thing that I can think off, is that you fill the area as much as possible with your pattern / border and then fill in around the edges with a plain matching tile.

I have recemtly fitted a Envirovent ECO dMEV Coaxial fan with humidistat (running continual extract) - look on youtube for the videos. It replaced an expensive Vent Axia and it performs significantly better. Get them from Ebay for half the price.

Have you spoken to your SE? If not ask him if you could use two smaller steels together so it would be wider but not as deep.

Velux do a window that is suitable for pitches between 2 and 15 degrees.

I read somewhere that someone found the locations of their UFH pipes by mopping the floor (making it wet) and then watching it dry - apparently it dried quicker where the pipe loops were. For the cost / risk, I would get or hire a thermal camera.

I had my backer boards from RubberDuck Bathrooms - best price that I could find for Abacus Elements - they do Wedi as well but Elements are cheaper (and the same) They came direct from Abacus - free 2 day delivery Abacus Pack of 5 Tile Backer Boards 900 x 2400 x 12mm £228.00 £166.00 inc. VAT

We have a Blanco Silgranite sink, the colour is anthracite - 11 years old. We live in a very hard water area. For the first few years it looked great, now it has faint grey areas / limescale staining. I have spent hours trying to clean it - I have even used the cleaning product that Blanco produce, with limited / varying results. Once cleaned and then coated with a layer of chopping board oil (the stuff Ikea sell) it looks as good as new for a couple of weeks, then it needs doing again. I am swaying towards a stainless steel sink when we have our new kitchen, but every Kitchen showroom we have recently visited all favour the composite sinks.

Lol

Do not cut into the PIR. I have fitted a MF ceiling in my rear extension with a single vaulted roof and also on the second floor extension with a vaulted roof. The MF gives around me about 75mm of void depth - this includes a small gap to allow cables to pass under the primary channels, so could be about 65mm if placed tight against the PIR. I will be fitting Aurora Mpro downlights - they only need 47mm depth as the driver can be split from the lamp. I have a fixed version and the adjustable version on trial and I am impressed with them - not the cheapest downlights out there. https://auroralighting.com/gb/trade/ProductDetail/AU-MPRO1 There are also other offerings from other manufactures that will fit into small spaces - such Collinwood to name another brand that have the driver fitted at 90 degrees.

You will find that any decent extractor hood will require a 150mm duct (or rectangle equivalent) - my last one was 150mm but the instructions said that a 125mm duct could be fitted as the minimum - It was a Luxair From the Luxair site: Cooker Extractor Hood 4" 100mm Ducting System 100mm Ducting is used for low power cooker hoods, generally any cooker hood with a motor extraction rate of between 150 m³/hr to 450 m³/hr, most cooker hoods back in the early 1980s had very poor extraction rates and 4" ducting was the normal dimension used, even today some cheaper cooker hoods will allow for 100mm ducting to be used without any problems, Luxair also produce some models that can be used on 100mm ducting however we always recommend that you check out our technical information on each product page as this will determine what size ducting you will require for each model based on the size of the motor. https://luxairhoods.com/100mm-cooker-hood-ducting

Thanks Already have a tin loaded on the gun so will let loose with it tomorrow.

Hi All, Our floor screed is now dry enough to walk on so I have been trimming off the perimeter insulation - I have noticed that we have some small gaps between the 25mm perimeter insulation and the walls (mainly the old walls). Should I try to fill the gaps with anything or leave it? Thanks, Wozza.

Hi All, Thanks for the replies, the instructions are of no help, and I cannot find anything online. I called the tech line today and asked if I should use 1mm or 1.5mm cable for the Neostat V2 and the chap said "err 1.5", but he didn't sound very convincing. So I will use 1.5mm.

Cut the board across the centre of where it rocks. I had this, where an existing floor met a newer floor - so I the jointed the boards at that point. The screed installer told me not to worry as I had a couple of boards that still rocked a couple of mm, he said the weight of the screed will hold them down.

Hi All, I need to run the thermostat cables for my UFH ready for Saturday when the fitter arrives to wire it all up and commission the system. Is 1mm 3 core and earth suitable or should I use 1.5mm 3 core and earth. The thermostats are Heatmiser Neostat V2 Thanks, Wozza.

GGU 008230 is passive house-certified for cold climate regions We are introducing GGU 008230, which is ideal for situations where Passive House-certified building components are required. This is the first and only roof window on the market certified in class A for Passive House building constructions in cold climate regions* as shown in the geographical map above. This roof window consists of a triple outer-glazing plus an additional inner double-glazing.

I have emailed Fernox Tech. - Just got the reply which says only to use F1 Inhibitor in a combined UFH / Radiator system as the higher temps will kill off any bacteria.

Hi All, What do you use (or recommend) to use in a UFH / Radiator system with regards to inhibitors and Biocides. We previously had Fernox F1 in the Radiator system, but now that its a combined UFH / Radiator system should I use something else? Thanks, Wozza.

Definitely keep a few spare tiles - under the bath (if fitted with side panel) is a good place to keep them. Most places offer returns within 60 days if unused etc.