wozza

@NeilScotland Did you consider using a decoupling matt? Please post a pic when finished.

We opted not to use epoxy due to cost and because its more difficult to use, I have also read that it can discolour in bright sunlight, and look a bit plastic. We used Keracoll Fugabella Grout and a grout sealer afterwards, they do a range of 50 colours. Just looked up the Fugabella details: Kerakoll Fugabella Color Grout is a decorative resin-cement grout for grouting of ceramic and porcelain tiles, mosaic and natural stone, available in a 50-colour design range. Green product for bio-building. Available in 50 colours – the colour of the bag denotes the colour of the grout it contains. Also available is a matching silicone – Kerakoll Silicone Color – in all 50 colours. Kerakoll Fugabella Color resin-cement grout is a hybrid between resin and cement – combining the ease of application of a cement based grout with the resilient, fine-grained, non-porous finish of an epoxy resin grout. Kerakoll Fugabella Color Grout achieves performance characteristics such as water-repellence, very low water absorption, high surface hardness, high resistance to the most common acidic substances and total colour uniformity. Produces grout joints that are naturally antibacterial, easy to clean and maintain, suitable for underfloor heating systems and can be recycled as mineral inert material, avoiding waste disposal costs and environmental impact.

We used the Perfect Level Master system for our 120 x 120cm tiles. Where we left an unfinished tile edge, we either put a clip in place with a small offcut of tile to support it, or we put the clip in loose.

You could try something like this: INSUduct® MDPE Pipe Entry Protection Box www.gasandwaterpipelines.co.uk

In the other rooms where you do not have the issue, do you have the same amount of leds? You could try swapping the dimmer with the one in the room that works to see if the problem moves.

Are the leds dimable? Varilight pro dimmers will work - I run one with 6 leds. You could also try fitting a resistive load as a last resort.

I got one of my steels from a local Steel Stockholder - way cheaper than the local fabricators quoted, just had to paint it myself.

It means that the door or drawer etc fits into the opening not against it.

Could the water be passing through the thread of the bolt - its common with basin wastes - the washer seals the nut against the basin but nothing seals the thread. Try PTFE tape on the thread of the bolts - or better still fit another robber washer between the metal washer and the top of the bolt.

Did you tighten the wing nuts equally to compress the doughnut washer level? Do the studs fit through the cistern? or onto a metal plate that is fitted to the outlet of the flush mech?

Is it already built / done or are you adding to the plan?

When they say perimeter insulation they most likely mean an expansion strip - its typically about 8mm thick and will not offer much insulation, its there to accommodate expansion.

Me too

I used Abacus Elements boards around both of my trays and also their tanking kit so I didn't have to tank the whole boards - just the joints and fixing screws / washers. I also used a Mappei kit that the plasterer had left over from a job and he gave to me. I preferred the Abacus kit - but the Mappei kit was ok - the Primer G seems good stuff. Are you using tiles or shower panels?

Both of our en suites have tiled skirting to match the floor tiles and I cut the vanity units to fit.

Would the wall draw the heat out from the slab?

Hand tight only, anymore than hand tight and you will compress the o ring too much and it will be squashed / forced out allowing water to leak.

We laid a normal (thick DPM) on the sub floor, lapped up the walls with all joints overlapped and taped, blobs of mastic used to stick it to the walls. We fitted our 25mm PIR perimeter insulation next (slightly higher than FFL) We then fitted our 120mm PIR insulation, we taped the boards together but I don't think it necessary. We then laid a thin DPM over the PIR (and up the walls) again with overlapped and taped joints. The UFH pipes were then fitted and then screed poured.

Sorry, I have looked all over the door - I cant find any details on it.

We used Fibolite blocks.

It was fitted in 2010, I have since moved it to its new location - I will look tomorrow.

Our door to the attached garage is a plain white upvc fire door - it looks good and seals very well - I believe its what they fit as front doors in blocks of flats.

I recently fitted a Grohe Rapid SL with Euro pan, got it at a great price from a local merchants. Was easy to fit and looks / works great.

I have a Freud blade on my Mitre saw and I rate it. I have a Cheapo Titan table saw - the blade was blunt, I took it to a local blade sharpening specialist - they replaced 2 broken teeth and sharpened it for about a tenner.