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  1. Thanks - I asked architect who referred me to the installer [of the mvhr]. I'm the installer so no further forward there! Just looking to see what that gap should be really. I am leaning on going with a 10mm gap if I can't find anything to the contrary.
  2. Good evening all, Does anyone know if the regulation in England and Wales in respect of door gaps under doors applies in Scotland? I think it's a 10mm gap that's required south of the border but can't see anything in the technical regs up here that would dictate what the door gap should be.
  3. Hi all, The tank/boiler install in my house is due to take place end of the month which means i have to get the orders in for the cylinders etc. On advice of others and some on this forum i have decided to go for a UVC and buffer tank - UVC I will probably purchase off the shelf somewhere in stock and then I will insulate it better myself - as far as the buffer tank is concerned I came across a OSO model on eBay but it lists in the description: 'The Accu units are designed to be part of a split system, where the accumulating is done in a separate tank' I don't quite follow what this means? Would one of these be suitable for my application or do i need something else? I tried to contact my plumber but couldn't get through to him today.
  4. I'm in Scotland - not sure if that changes anything but i was told by architect that i would need on doors to all living arears - so thats 4 downstairs, 5 on ff and 2 on sf. Faz - those ones look like they will do the job but at £230+vat are way over budget - i am temped to go with the SS ones and if i cant have them powder coated i might just have a go at spray painting them!
  5. Hi all, We are going with black handles and hinges on our project. As the build is over three floors we require self closers on a few doors - the Perko R2 seems to do the job but it doesn't come in black - infact none of the ones I can see online from the various different brands come in black. For anyone that has worked with these before can the ends be detached as if so I am think they could be painted / powder coated but if not then I don't think stainless steel will be too bad but just want to explore our options.
  6. I will check with the designer to see what he says - I am a little out my comfort zone here. I have space in the plant room but that's in the attic (I know it's a bit upside down!). What do you think about the zone valves - having a quick Google I don't think I need them on the back of each zone having an actuator?
  7. Tell me about it - between that and knowing that she will have windows open fully in the height of winter to 'air' the house out despite having a mvhr I have my work cut out! I've checked the cost of a buffer tank and think I can go with one of those if I then chose a cheaper boiler that doesn't have as good as good a modulating range (1:10).
  8. So on GF it was meant to be different spacing but we decided to go closer to make the option of retrofitting an ashp in the future a possibility. I have a very old inefficient self build with ufh I am staying in now and heating demand is close to nil upstairs on all but the coldest of days. I think the calcs showed the same for us at the new place so I am.not too concerned about the spacing (and too late now anyway to do anything about it!). As far as heatmiser in each room - that's a debate I am having with the Mrs. I was thinking a thermostat per floor but she wanted independent control as it's the same as what we have. If you have any advice that might convince her I'm all ears.
  9. It was the designer/under floor heating store who specced the zone valves. But each manifold location does have its own pump/blender/actuators... Does that mean we might be able to do without the zone valves?
  10. I will need to check with the designer about the temp... Can't seem to see the designed temp on the papers I have. It's 16mm pipe at 150 ctrs on gf in 80mm of screed and spreader plates at 250 ctrs on first and second floors. Will be timber floor on the gf and carpets FF and SF.
  11. We had thought about a buffer tank before - I think trying to keep a slim budget we discounted for that reason. I guess i could reconsider the decision - we do have space in the plant room for it - the guys who designed the UFH system couldn't tell us what size we needed so i would need to do those calcs then find the cost for what size i need and costs etc. I did try looking online for this before but most guidance i could find was for ASHP / non-gas boiler set ups. The boiler modulates down to 1.6kw which will exceed a single rooms heat demand. p.s. and this is probably a stupid question but if the boiler only runs when one of the stat calls for heat what purpose does the motorised valve do?
  12. Yes - each manifold has its own pump - I guess the valve could be located at the manifold end but we won't have a buffer - its a gas boiler we are going with which modulates well (1:20 modulation) which should work well with ufh - or thats the plan at least! It's something we could look to add later should we feel it is required. System was designed by the Underfloor Heating Store but they now closed until next year (and i am happy to deviate if theres a better way). How would the wiring work without a buffer - I guess we would wire all the wiring centres to be able to trigger the boiler when required?
  13. Good evening all, We are in the final stages of running the cables for our build and it occurs to me that I have yet to run the cabling for the UFH control. I have been looking at schematics this evening: Am I correct in thinking that I need 5 core cables running from the wiring centres (there will be 3 in total - 1 on each floor) to the motorised valves which are going to be located in the attic? At the same time I think I have to run a twin and earth cable from each wiring centre to where the boiler is going to be located (also in the loft)? Truth be told its probably a question for my sparky and plumber but they are not back on site until end Jan so thought I would ask here so I can get on with things while I am off work over Christmas/New Year!!
  14. Thanks for all the suggestions. I certainly have a better understanding now of whats needed. I will report back when I have a bash at it!
  15. Good evening all, My wife and I suffer from bad backs and currently find it difficult to stack the dishwasher which sits on the ground. We were thinking of trying to raise the dishwasher in our new kitchen. Has anyone done anything similar? We are struggling with the different suppliers out there being able to assist us. Has anyone here done anything similar? If there is not a tailored solution out there I was thinking of getting a reduced height base unit, screw some MDF on to the top and the plop the dishwasher on top and get some end panels to cover the sides? In my head this could work but in practice is always different!