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The pin on the manifold? Just checked them both and they all seem to be at the same height. But I think replacing the actuators may have fixed it! When I initially installed them circuit 5 was still stuck open but I let that zone (that was stuck open) run for the last hour and now when I turn the zone off and turn on another circuit the former dodgy circuit stays closed! I think maybe the new actuators need power for a bit to calibrate fully. Heating is off now as the house is roasting after all the testing but I will try it again next time I need heating and see if it behaves.

I had 2 spare actuators so have actually just changed them over. It has fixed the issue on pipe 4 but pipe 5 still opens when i call for heat in another room. I have also tried to recalibrate all the actuators on the manifold but that has not resolved it either. Not sure what else to try.

Hi all, I am having an issue with my UFH which is causing me to scratch my head! Whether it has existing since I moved in on whether it’s a new issue I am not sure. I have noticed in the past week (since the heating came on) that my hall has been warm whether I have the zone calling for heat or not. After a bit of experimenting today i can see that the pipes to the hall are getting warm and the bits that move on the top of the manifold that you use to balance the runs move (sorry I don’t know the technical term - I have the self-balancing actuators so these are just open to maximum - image is attached). It doesn’t matter what other zone is calling for heat these two circuits open and the hall heats up. I have attached an image of the bits I am talking about – you will see the actuators are off but the circuits moving water! Any suggestions on what it could be? I thought maybe dodgy actuators but it’s unlikely to be both of them?

Ignore me guys. There is an installer in West Lothian who should be able to pop out tomorrow!

Maybe I'm mistaken. I'll go check the order paperwork as the installer was listed there.

ADW is who I purchased the windows through. They have an approved guy in the Highlands but that's no good. They can come out themselves for just adjustment but I suspect my issue is part installation and part adjustment so I'd like to pay someone to do it all if that makes sense.

Hi, I ended up with Rationel windows at my self build however just about no one local to me wants to work on them or adjust them! They were installed by both the builder and a good albeit unreliable joiner. To be honest it was all a bit of a mess and I regret chosing them now! In any case there is one window which I just can't get adjusted right - I have tried a few joiners/windows fitters but finding someone who has dealt with these type of windows and hinges (and who actually turns up) is proving to be a challenge. I have tried fixing/adjusting it myself but can't quite get it right either. If anyone has anyone they can suggest who is local or indeed is willing to travel then please let me know. thanks.

That's what I was dreading! Means I have to take the door off the hinges and it's a big + heavy door!

Hi. Looking to see if anyone knows how I would adjust one of these hinges so the door moves per the arrows. I've tried playing about with the hinge and can't get it to go up and down but nothing re right to left.

In the end we ended up with i-joists and it wasn't an issue drilling to run the mvhr pipes. The manufacturer has guidelines for where and how far part you can make the openings. The cost together with the builder preferring the I joists ended up being the deciding factor for us and I have no regrets with the decision we made.

Thought I would update this for anyone that might come across this in the future - I had a couple of spare cills so soaked them with cleaning vinegar (neat) overnight to see if that would stain them - it did not so I tried the cleaning vinegar with a non abrasive brush this morning on the window itself and it cleaned up a treat. Who would've thought it would be that simple!

Hi all, I have a window at my self build which have been marked with some mortar / water residue left by some careless brickies. The window was covered but obviously not good enough. The marks are not coming off with regular cleaner. Can anyone suggest anything that might work to remove them but won't damage the paintwork? Image attached. Luckily you can't see the window unless you go looking for it so not the end of the world if I can't get the marks off but I'd like to give it a shot!

Hi all, I thought i would update this thread as this saga with my hot water has continued to run and run (or run out as is normally the case)! The installer came out and installed a NRV between the bronze pump and the tank - that solved the lack of hot water when the pump was switched off but I am still losing a whole lot of heat through the tank and it can go from full hot to room temperature overnight. the plumber was out a few times and couldn't see anything wrong and I have lived with it until last night when I wanted a bath and what do you know! No hot water despite us being out of the house all day!! I have the bronze pump on a smart plug and so its only on when motion is detected in the landing - so most of the time this pump is actually off and so i shouldn't be losing any heat through the secondary return. I ended up checking the piping myself last night and on the SC300 manual for the secondary return should be connected via the expansion vessel connection and the combination valve but my secondary return seems to be plumbed into the balanced cold water connection. Could this be causing my issue? To my layman's eyes where the connection is supposed to go and where it does go on the combination valve are not miles apart but surely this can't be right? The plumber has said it doesn't make a different and OSO technical hasn't responded to me. Can anyone chime in while i wait for OSO?

Hi all, We are in the process of deciding what to do with the raised deck in our back garden - work probably wont begin for another few months but with the way things are going it's probably best to get everything arranged now! We have a suspended beam and block outdoor deck - it will be screeded and then will have some EPDM to seal it for the rooms beneath. The original plan was then 10mm rubber spacers and regular paving but having been to a few landscaping places we quite like tyhe look of the epoxy pebble (epoxy bound maybe?) systems some of them do. We are quite tight for margins at the thresholds to our doors and they werent sure at the showroom how thin it could be laid (best to ask the fitter they said!). Does anyone know? and if so, provided it's only going to be light pedestrian traffic, it should last ok? We can probably manage 30mm but anything more and it might be a struggle. Can it even be laid over EPDM as that will be a deal breaker if it can't or we would need to find another solution to waterproof. I have tried checking online and the only times i have seen the thickness mentioned is when talking about parking cars on it (which wont be an issue in a back garden!). Anyone done anything similar / any tips/hints would be appreciated!

I ended up going with a manifold on each floor. I still think from SF going to FF would have worked but wasn't brave enough to make that leap! I am running the Salus self balancing actuators and the pumps at the manifold on their slowest settings (so there would have been some margin had I put everything on the SF). In hindsight I would probably skip the ufh in the SF altogether as it's simply not been cold enough to need it on. Even now with minus temp outside the study on the SF is showing 23 deg C (it's set to 16 deg). P.s. I am not sure who is designing your system but ours was overcomplicated with certain/most rooms needing two runs due to the length of the runs but once we got started I decided on one longer run per room but switched to the self balancing actuators (I had to go to another supplier as the one that designed the system didn't do the self balancing ones) and it's worked well with no issues.