Nickfromwales

Buy the monument one and see how long you keep your one afterwards The black rubber ends come off the Tommy bar so you have to glue them on. I went for a few turns of insulation tape tbh, so I can take the bar off if needed by simply removing the tape. .

Im a big believer in engineering a solution to suite the remit Peter, so yes your right, it can be done that way. The reason I haven't chirped up is that it's not easy to do and requires a joint / multiple joints to achieve. It's also not preferable to have an AAV ( automatic air vent / release ) in any position other than one of free and easy access so it can be inspected / replaced etc.

I have this one It's got much slimmer profile heads and takes up far less room per rotation. I can do taps by feel alone with this one, and the one above I launched after owning it for a day or so. The difference is night and day

There are some make / manufacturer 'name drops' in those images, but these are all just random 'net grabs FYI.

There are, I'm sure, many different types A typical installation for ceiling penetrations ( duct / light ) etc.

This shows the buckle / hasp a bit better

The ones I fit are identical, mostly required on HMO / student rental refurbishments. They are steel belted and have a robust buckle / hasp arrangement so re the comment about them being surrounded by bricks / similar I'm not entirely sure that's the case. These are capable of expanding during a fire, and provide that force by means of expanding against said collar. Expanding entirely to close an opening is only possible when the pipe itself deteriorates ( eg the heated / melting plastic of a soil pipe softens and aids the total closure / compression ) but I'd certainly not use the term 'crushes' tbh as it's possible for someone to wrongly assume that it has the strength to do so to any random pipe. One of metal construction for eg will not crush as it will have immense strength when force is applied equally to it's outer diameter Only nit-picking that statement as this is a particularly important subject I've fitted these collars under the watchful eye of BCO's and I can tell you that they're accepted even when fitted to two layers of fire rated plasterboard, with no other mechanical fixing, and no brick / block work / similar solid construction. These will work in a TF house as well as in any brick built house, AS LONG AS THEY'VE BEEN FITTED CORRECTLY. Heres a random internet photo to demonstrate such an instance. The only requirement that the BCO wanted, on the couple of holes where these were fitted into solid walls, was to insert these into the void and cement them in. Then for the mechanical fixings ( screws / other ) afterwards

If it's the same tap connectors that came off, they should 'fly' ( ) back on. Are they SpeedFit tap connectors? Eg plastic not metal, or are they flexis?

Manifold can be above the loop, but not below it. Eg, you can have your 1st floor manifold drop downstairs for a single or multiple loops without a single issue. I did a big job ( 100m2 ) Ufh downstairs and manifolds under the 2nd storey stairwell upstairs. Works perfectly with 8 loops going down. Air is the biggest problem so the vent on the manifold needs to be the high point. .

3 100% valid if my kids are anything to go by Its like a scene out of ghostbusters..... "never cross the streams" ☔️

Private browsing and having zero to do with 'unsocial media' are your friends. ?

Easy tiger.

No real need tbh, unless it's in particularly dodgy place.

This isn't going well for me.

That's me snookered then. Take me now lord.

In Ian's words, "long on promise, short on detail". I'm not qualified to comment on the insulation, but that advert has inspired my new plumbing brochure

Git

Clearly, the celebration here is that you found a good plumber. Im lost for words as to how this has been responded to, and can only hope that Byron will come back to me after his holiday and offer some resolve. I will most definitely be providing closure from this matter, through accounts of my own exchanges, by means of posting here accordingly with the outcome. Ill hold off recommending a screed company

It's something that gets overlooked when cutting holes in buildings / walls / ceilings tbh, so feel free

If you want to extend the chrome stub Chrome 35mm compression socket I use those plastic reducers but I fit the bent one in the wall so you can't see it. A few options here

That pic shows the tee. Is there a piece that you have that screws into that which leaves you a stub of pipe?

No dosh, no alterations. My days of working for free were during my years as a daft young man who went self employed. I want to go back in time and slap myself. ?

Plus 1 As the voltage goes down, the current goes up. . That means MUCH bigger cables, more complex voltage drop calcs, power supplies to fail and more. Feed the outside lights and power circuits from RCBO's which reside directly after the main switch in the CU. That will ensure that no circuits in the house get affected by outside faults

I love those ones, but if theyre happy to pay for it, let them fill their boots.