Nickfromwales
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Posts
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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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You've got more chance of seeing two Christ's, both on bikes ? Even with a new cold mains you may still struggle to run more than 2. You'd best survey off a neighbours outside tap, one nearest the street, to see exactly how you'd benefit before digging ( and parting with 4 figures ) Do you have outbuilding space for a decent sized ( 500L ) accumulator? That would be where my money would be spent as a house with an acc is above and beyond one without. 1800mm h x 600mm w tank size iirc @ 500 litres.
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That open plan with the fence like dividers looks horrible. Like it should be full of plastic chairs like a waiting room. Very unimaginative use of the space IMO. Yuk.
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Hi. If its air-locking, then does the pipe run flat or up & down, rather than continuously rise from each toilet back to the tank? With that little head available this will have quite an impact if the basics haven't been observed.
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TF houses often have load bearing '100'mm stud walls, just constructed differently to deal with, and transfer, the load to founds. Double stacked headers and multiple vertical studs in the same location are simple and effective methods, but anything more can be transferred down to founds with 90mm box-section steel hidden in the ( 100mm ) studs.
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Let them do the talking and write everything down, per builder. Post the outcomes here and we'll chuck our 2-Penneth in ?
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As long as you maintain the DPM then an 'infringement' here and there is permissible. Quite strange that your soleplate level is out by as much an inch .
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More almonds, quick !!!
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Just an £1800 admin fee ?
- 52 replies
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- plasterboard
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15 L is borderline TBH. ? Lets see what pressure you've got. Hopefully north of 2 bar. ?
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Won't you just trim the upstand insulation flush with the top of the screed ? Then you apply the floor covering over the top of the exposed upstand.
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Oh, and PMSL
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Yes, Yes, and yes.
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?
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Who does he think he is? A plumber.......?
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- plasterboard
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A cheeky little accumulator may also save you a lot of digging. Can you get a static reading for pressure? Buy a cheap gauge and fit a non return valve on it. Leave it for 48 hrs to see what the pressure makers out at. The NRV will capture the reading so you dont have to monitor it. The best cold mains pressure is available at night, so a daytime reading is of little use when surveying to weigh up your options.
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Whack that lot together and see what the flow rate is actually giving you . If you've got a good water main then it may be surprisingly good.
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Not the staple gun afaik, but if anyone's got one to get shot of we certainly could add it to the inventory. We have the pipe de-coiler so if that's of use please post here to reserve a loan slot.
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Lol If that thing looks at me the wrong way I SWEAR to god........
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The ruler doesn't lie. I came across this stuff a couple of times. Once, I found a galv coupler had just been forcibly turned onto the end of it and it had been there, without issue, for a bloody long time. I turn up and fit a new stopcock, during a full-on kitchen refurb, and the bastard starts leaking. About 2" of it left showing above the slab. After trying everything else with no success I just cleaned up and refitted the coupler and it held. No rhyme or reason but I was happy enough at that stage not to ask.
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FYI; 2 in number drones WITH cameras have been found in my garden. One very expensive looking one with 6 rotors. I barn danced on them both. Bin. Ta ta.
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If some pervy twat was hovering over my house I'd shoot it, and then them. Courts would be a secondary consideration "My home is my castle" so stay the fcuk away from it. ? @vivienz How about some scaffold poles, one at each opposite corner, with a pair of good quality time-lapse cameras pole mounted for the best shots. Seeing the TF fly up, which it will, is something I'd like to immortalise if I had the chance. There has to be some spotty geek who will come out for a few hours a day and capture some video for you? Ask the guts which days will be ground floor up / first floor up / roof on and book said spotty man accordingly. ?
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I think it's 20mm old school mdpe. Plassoon fitting will go straight on and fix onto that with zero issue. If you want to tee in you'll have to expose about a metre so you can form an S in the pipe to bring the tee in, basically bending the shit out of it until you get success. If it's for a temp supply just cut 150mm out and whack an elbow on. Once vertical and above ground whack another bend on and then a 'plastic' stopcock. Alterations or damage can be easily managed by anyone on site then plus you can isolate overnight ( if on a meter and don't want any possible expensive leaks ).
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Yup. Confucius say "there is no future in the past" ?
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Bask in my glory, fellow minions ?
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- heat loss
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Just make sure the UTH wires are stuck down religiously, then you can use a mix of TA and a rubber grout float to fill in the voids between the wires. That will massively reduce the amount of goo you have to mix whilst laying. The wires are typically ~3-4mm so thats a lot of volume removed before you start laying. It'll also allow you to realise and fill in the areas outside the heated area, plus any untreated ares like under the WC etc, and to fill those up prior to tiling too. Drag the whole floor and use the float to smooth the TA just flush with the wire and that'll also ensure full contact between the wire and the TA, so no chances of hot-spots where the wire is not in contact with any TA
