Nickfromwales

The power of Christ compels you! ⚡

@kla456 New thread started in the 'boilers / hot water' sub forum to keep this thread on topic. Thanks. Link here as a follow-me

Hi @kla456 and welcome to the madhouse Ok, 1 ) Oversizing the HP can make it run a little quieter, but id discount thoughts of the 14 & 16kW models and they're very big. 2 ) Not sure if this is present or future tense? 2 tanks? 1 x DHW + 1x Buffer? Is your DHW tank an UVC? Please be clear on what you already have and what your considering. 3 ) If you have PV then the HP is already running off PV PV will lend itself to whatever is drawing from the consumer unit unless it has been specifically made divisible by a PV diversion device / other. 4 ) With a buffer tank you can then do pretty much whatever you like with the HP. Running it for DHW will see it max out, so lower CoP and possibly noisier in operation for that period of high grade heat demand. 5 ) If its an UVC then this point is moot, as there is very little volume in the HP UVC coil, so no. Better to use excess PV to heat DHW first, and then the car last. Some choose to charge the car off off-peak electricity at night as its out of phase with DHW / sunshine. Pointless having a charged car and no hot water, plus vehicles are typically used during the day so best to have it charged for the morning ready to use ? 6 ) Get a new, more energy efficient family ASAP. Gumtree or eBay etc. 7 ) If thats a fact, then consider utilising battery storage to run the HP at night, but prob best to wait a couple of years for the battery market to become a but more viable. Prices are dropping, but let them drop a bit more first, IMO. From what I've heard the Tesla cannot be stopped from taking grid electricity to satisfy its recharge requirement, and there are others around which are preferable. I'm looking into this in depth at the moment for a couple of clients, I'll add what I learn when I can. I am not an expert on this by any means. 8 ) Same here and feel your pain. 9 ) With the windows left open and the HR turned off you'll need all the help you can get ! 10 ) Pretty fine figures for a retro-fit. Do you have a concrete slab to put heat into or thin screed / other as the main emitter ? With a HP you should be able to top that up without any tears, plus with the extra PV you may well be able to store some excess into a Sunamp heat battery and then leave the HP off at night. Problem is, those open windows, so prob best just to use the HP and be happy with the offset of the running cost via CoP. 11 ) Maybe reconsider point 6 12 ) Agree. Battery storage or a better medium for storing DHW, other than wet tanks, ( eg a Sunamp heat battery which would give you 3 times the storage of heat energy for the same equivalent physical size but with far lower standing losses ) may become your friends. You don't want to get into a situation where you have paid for additional PV but then are exporting. Get your heating installed and DHW running via the buffer ( from the HP, so all DHW preheat is at max CoP ) and then wait on a years figures before deciding to add more PV. Storing off PV in the day plus the CoP may make more PV an unwise choice unless you can routinely charge the car in the day Plenty of info here if you'd like to browse a little. For the benefit of others wanting to comment, can you give a better breakdown of EXACTLY what you have in place right now please Cylinders / type etc. Cheers.

Good girl

Hence why I use adhesive and drag / spot fill according to the dips. Ditra doesn't level though, so there is merit in its ( the SL ) use if its bad. Just how bad it can be over new Weyroc remains to be discussed

There are very few flexible self levellers around, and if you try this I almost guarantee you'll end up with a floor that has build up, but is not as level as you'd think it'll end up as. A proper 2-part self leveller is a dream to work with, but AFAIK there are only water based 'builders screed' type levellers available which just dont flow anywhere near as well as you'll need. You will find the high points just get a little higher, which is the opposite of what you want. If it were me, I'd identify the high points with a 6' level, and note the bad ( low ) bits. I'd then mix up some tile adhesive and use that to fill the dips making sure to add nothing to the high points. Use a straight edge and level the adhesive off flush to the high points but not above them. Dont worry about the UTH wire, as long as your not wearing stilettos you'll not hurt it. Then apply the SL, mixed ( and added to as I say below ). Ditramat is down and UTH wire too ! If you want to use a flexible SL then Ultra is a product I'd recommend as I've used a LOT of their gear over the last 10+ years without a single issue. I'd recommend spraying a dilute solution of Ultra flexible primer / water with a Hozelock bottle immediately prior to laying the SL, and I'd also mix exactly the quantity of water they state on the bag. Once thoroughly mixed chuck a half pint of the mixed primer solution into the SL and then mix it one last time. Get the SL down quickly and thats the best you'll get without hand finishing / trowelling the adhesive as per my first suggestion. Make 1000% sure the UTH wire is fixed down and every loop end taped to the floor prior to laying. If you level 4mm and the wire floats up you'll be using the same amount all over again to lay the tiles so will end up 8mm total. Expensive and a waste of time then. Make sure the perimeter is sealed up so no SL can dissaperr down any rabbit holes, as thats a real PITA when you mix up 6 bags but only 2 stay in the room. Caulk or exp foam are your friend there.

A nice looking house, that. I particularly like the gable top / roof detail, very neat way to close that junction off. Keep going, it'll be well worth the blood sweat and beers.

In writing or over the phone ? Put this firmly in his lap and tell him it's his problem. Don't phone him, send it by email and recorded signed for copy by post. Then he should sit up and take notice. What a Penis.

Hi. Firstly, Building control will tell you what goes where, it's not for 'consideration' . If your building a block internal then you'll be tying the leaves together so get an angry man with a BFO petrol cutter to cut back the buttresses ( pillars ) and fly right through with tied and filled cavity walls. Next is the floor. I very much doubt you'll be allowed to full fill with concrete as that won't pass BC either through lack of insulation. On the last one I did, I laid 125mm iirc of EPS directly onto the garage floor over the DPM ( checking it was level first which it was ) and then finished the floor with 2 layers of 18mm P5 floorboards. That felt better than walking on a timber joisted floor, very solid. The internal cavity walls were covered with 65mm insulated plasterboard dot n dabbed over blue grit. You could prob get away with thinner boards on the walls if you cut back the pillars and full fill the cavities. Sounds to me like you need a chat with your BCO first, then come back here, and then get a builder out once you've decided on the method of construction. ?

Can you put your general location up here so maybe someone can recommend boarders and skimmers for you ?

Yup. As the OP house is open plan ground level to entry level, 1 up 1 down ( split level over 3 floors ), then FR ( fire rated ) boards would do very little as the flames shot up the stairs. Guy that said that is just repeating what he's seen elsewhere with no cause or reason. NEXT!

Cost of maintenance and replacing the ( crane ) cables etc I fear has been downplayed a bit. I don't see that running for 30 years without a major overhaul. I do like the concept, and there are some ingenious ways of storing / balancing. Pumping water has to be a contender.

Just like every other bathroom and kitchen is Chill out, and push forwards.

That's the pre-flight checks done. Time for lift-off SpongeBob ?

Mapei is good stuff. Used loads of it over the years and their grouts are good too.

Nice car park

You can sub to me. How does £200 a day for half a days work sound

Awww, bless him ??

And the plumber couldn't spot this ?

16a it is. Needs to be reliable.

??

I'll stay put. I can get a village named after me for that here

The land of "charge whatever you want" more like.

Ah yes, just spotted they font do a dual 16a. Dual 6a it is then. Have you already bought these / trial run them?

Tidy. Something else for my boys to use as target practice