Nickfromwales

My point above, and with a chunk of decent decrement delay insulation below it you can also likely get away without the screed altogether. The remit is to be able to not exceed the required heat input and get the hysteresis to where there is little or no over / undershoot. This is VERY easy to achieve with a wet blended system utilising pre-blended ( at source ) low grade flow temps at or near to the required loop temps. IMO adding a thin screed is more of an annoyance than a benefit, as once you accept that you'll still need a constant low temp flow even with the thin screed, then why would you bother ? More expense beefing up the structure, more labour and materials, and your also then conducting heat downward into the substrate which again I think is pointless. IMO its slab or no slab, and if no slab its plates.

Whilst it is running and making the noise, go around the various sections of flow and return pipework and grab hold of them tight, pushing or pulling as forcibly as possible. Get someone to listen whilst this is being done, all the way back to the HP. Resonance thats generated in such a system will eminate from very strange places, often not where they're being generated. Number one culprit would be the NRV or the inline strainer. Grab the zone valve also, and see if thats causing it.

Does it have a TPO on it? If not @Construction Channel has a job for his 24"er. Buzz, Buzz, chop, Chop, Ta, Ta. Plant some new ones where you want them, to alleviate any guilt, or just wait for the guilt to naturally reside........about a day or two max should suffice PV is a must IMO, and id never consider a PH without it, even more so if your to go all-electric. Exactly what happened in the case I recounted. A blown eps jacket over the walls and roof, and EPS / PIR afoot makes for near transparency. Switch the heating off and watch the temperature drop. No interest in changing to cellulose / other so a bit one-trick and very niche imo. B PH is for the true eco warrior AFAIC, and doesn't lens itself to sympathetic "gentle" heating like a slab does. What do I think?......LOL. Let me just fetch my gun E7 - yes Electric - UFH no. And thinking you can only run that at night also a no. With that kind of decrement delay you'll need a constant trickle of heat, day and night, in the shoulder and winter months. Willis heater and Sunamp for DHW on E7 - now this is where it gets interesting; You can, firstly, go for a wet cylinder OR a SA unit, as both will achieve the same in my following proposal. Pros and cons first...... Wet cylinders eg buffer and UVC; PRO : cheaper capital outlay vs SA PRO : more plumbers will quote for fitting wet cylinders vs the many who go running away when someone mentions you want to fit a SA CON : physically bigger in comparison by a factor of ~3 per same kWh of heat energy stored CON : much much higher standing losses, to a point that it may be problematic and require mitigation measures a la @JSHarris issues with his wet TS CON : certified installation for G3 required and also annual G3 inspection / service for life @ ~ or > £100 P/A CON : multiple complex pressure reducing valves, pressure relief valves, associated discharge pipework and more Sunamp units; CON : more expensive to buy than SOME UVCs / buffers etc, but not all. Some HP UVCs are more than an equivalent SA CON : less plumbers will understand and warm to the idea of quoting for and installing a SA so you will need to persevere with that PRO : physically smaller as above, and a neater 'modular' box set to fit in under a kitchen / utility worktop ( up to the size 9 unit, the size 12 unit is over 1000mm tall ) PRO : very low standing losses so the heat you store stays in the SA for longer, allowing you to further offset storage and times of consumption eg store heat off PV and then consume at night. PRO : no compulsory annual inspection but obviously needs routine / annual inspection to check things are operating A1. To assume something is fit n forget would be wrong. The benefit of the SA is that this is far easier / simpler to undertake than the alternatives as there is basically nothing to do. I will double check this tomorrow and update as to whether or not the SA can be DIY 'maintained' as in who must fill out the annual Benchmark service interval record etc. PRO : can be connected directly to the mains as the plate heat exchangers are rated at 10bar. That means full flow from the cold mains to DHW vs the multi block ( aka control group ) that is required with an UVC, and something that has been demonstrated here that actually restricts the flow rate somewhat. OK, that due diligence taken care of. Now for my 2 penneth. I would fit aluminium spreader plates and wet UFH. Its as cheap and quick as electric systems but is far more reliable. Also, electric systems can have far less longevity / be far more prone to being damaged during the installation and that will often cause premature, but not immediate, failure of the delicate heater wire. Run that from whichever type of heat source you decide suits you best, wet cylinder or SA, and then you have good cause to get a chunk of PV fitted. Store the excess PV into the chosen storage device and then utilise it outside the hours of PV generation. Fortify with a Willis heater, or even easier via the supplied immersion heaters ( regular immersion in an UVC / buffer / TS, and there is, an OEM 3kW immersion in the 'e' series SA units ). That means there is no specific need for an external willis heater with a wet cylinder / SA based installation. You only need to fit one if you chose no storage device for space heating, a la @TerryE, or as failsafe with an ASHP. FYI an Uniq eDual PCM58 SA unit will drive both your heating and hot water from one unit, as it has 2 hydraulically separate heat exchangers, both in 22mm pipework. Driven from E7 or more suitably E10, IMO, that is the neatest and most efficient way to go, plus no G3. Adding PV will offset the amount of electricity you import. Simples. What other medium is going to give you storage of heat energy? Certainly not a P5 floor with electric UFH on top. Also with an electric system there is no modulation, so its either on 100% or off 100%, whereas with a slab or even wet UFH in spreader plates you can modulate the flow temp to match precisely, and just offset, the immediate heat losses. I think you can get away with out the slab as you have excellent depth of cellulose under the heated floor, but id be wary about over / under shoot with something that you cannot modulate. At best you may be able to get an electric UFH system that gives 50w/m2, but that will roast you if left on too long. Having a very accurate room thermostat would suffice but you'd probably need them local to each zone, and multiples of them ( stats and zones ).

As cooling will make up a very small percentage of your 'climate control', id seriously rethink not having a slab. With primarily heating being required, and some sort of emitter necessary to facilitate that effect, look at how your going to deliver heat into the dwelling and how best to produce, store and emit that in line with what your heat source will be. Ive just spec'd a build ( Beatie PH ) with 360o EPS and no slab or UFH. Getting an ambient via a Genevex HP based MVHR system is being both difficult and unreliable. Luckily for me A.N.Other is doing supply and fit of the MVHR and they have to demonstrate that it will work. PHEW! @PeterStarck has a similar arrangement in a much smaller dwelling and is surviving with that, but admits he keeps his space heating temp quite high ( ~24oC iirc ) to ensure a constant ambient and again iirc he also fortifies that with auxiliary ( supplemental ) heating. With a slab you have a good medium to store for, eg, heat energy produced via PV > ASHP > SLAB in the daytime and allow that heat to dissipate gently into the house through the late evening / night time, dependant on your slab insulation and heat loss figures of course. With no slab and 'direct emitters' your heating will be nigh on linear to it being required so you may find yourself 180o out of phase with the 'free' energy you should be consuming and utilising to offset such demand. The B PH I refer to above is basically an EPS cage with very poor decrement delay, and has been a royal PITA to arrive at a space heating solution for. In the end I left the client and the MVHR designer to it, as I just kept on finding flaws in their proposal every time they submitted it for sign-off and ( deposit ) payment. Got on my tits in the end TBH, and now the guy has to fit a huge feature radiator in the open living space and keep it on, plus heated towel rads in all 3 bathrooms which all also have to stay on in order to maintain an ambient of 20,5oC. To get the bedrooms to 22oC they have advise fitting auxiliary heating or to light his 3kW WBS !!! P.I.T.A. The next one I get with the same remit, I shall not be taking it on. Way too problematic. Slab for me every day of the week. So simple, so effective and will cool sufficiently well as documented on his blog, and quoted above, by the beard of wisdom ( in a house that is 'live' and performing admirably ).

After delving into this a bit deeper, there is a get out of jail card for those wanting more PV than their local infrastructure will allow, eg for cases where the DNO has refused you a connection of say 6kWp. Solar Edge inverters can be used to get "export limitation", which guarantees that you'll never ever export more then ( iirc ) 3.8kW even if your array is throwing out 6kW. This is a great option for folk wanting to flood a mix of elevations, where realistically a spread of ( for eg ) ~8kWp over say 3 elevations ( or a mix of dwelling + outbuildings ) would never all receive sufficient direct sunlight to get up to or beyond 4kW after known consumption, but collectively they make the connected max kWp too much for a connection to be allowed. Also the SE inverter has a 12 year warranty and utilised 'DRY' capacitors so will outlive a lot of its competitors. Basically you can happily factor in one inverter change in the 20 year forecast whereas with others you may be on 2 at least. Also a good get out of jail card for those who have been told to pay ££££ towards infrastructure upgrades as for eg I have had a number of clients who have come to me in the throws of getting 3-phase upgrades to accommodate a whopping 9-10-11+kWp and I have then told them not to bother as they'll likely end up exporting with nothing to show for it, other than a big bill for PV and a big bill for a new supply cable to manage all the exporting ! RoI for PV can be very good when implemented correctly, but otherwise can be quite perverse. Forget FiT and Export, the figure you need to focus on is the offsetting of grid consumption ( import ) which ids the money maker. Get that aspect of the maths to the front of the table and right there lays the sweet spot. For a current proposal the ( sizeable ) PV installation is set to cost ~£12k, and the 25 year forecast shows total revenue of around £24k so a break-even at 12.5 years, and 12.5 years of 'free' juice thereafter. With an ASHP in the picture the heating will be provided at a factor of at least 3, so thats a heck of a lot of bang for the bucks.

I use two different methods, dependant on the quality of the slab. One is to put a 10mm notch on the floor and butter the back of the tile with the flat edge of the trowel ( for good floors which don't need too much smoothing ) and the second is where I put a 10mm notch on both the tile and the floor and then I can either leave them sitting up or squash them down a bit if there are highs and lows to traverse. Did that over a rough concrete slab in a kitchen extension where Magnet had fitted tiles for a £30k kitchen, and my tiling in the small extension made the customer do a double take as the "showroom" ( LOL ) fitters tiling was shocking.

If you dont have an ASHP and want a system to provide 'active cooling' then a brine loop, if correctly installed, should make a difference. With a thin line between success and failure the correct disciplines for setting the pipe and the depth at which its set are critical and need to be fully observed. If you can get reliable flow temps of sub 12oC then on a very hot day that will provide some reduction in the incoming airflow, but I'm currently looking into the merits of doubling up or seriously oversizing the heat battery ( wet duct heater ( or cooler )) to maximise the effect and remove every ounce of heat energy from the brine loop recirculation.

If the quality of the work is not in question, then that is a positive. Quantity will come, but its better to stick with a crew thats at least turning out work thats to stay. Sit the builder down, away from everyone else and scratch the words into his brain, that you expect him to rally around and pick up the pace. Give deadlines, check every few days with him on how things are progressing and that works / trades are programmed in accordingly, and then just keep on at it. Leave them worry about logistics, and if they break a tile, they shall replace it so that should be of less consequence to you about how its done, just focus on when

Dead man walking....... Ed, that looks the dogs bollocks mate. If I'd have fitted that, let alone made and fitted that, I'd have been walking around with a chest like Katie Price. Go drink beer, and buy SWMBO a bottle of fizzy for being your support, in more than one way.

Thanks for updating ?

Cheers, and +1 to being told that. Couldn't remember the name of the connector.

Why in gods name would you do such a flawed pipe run when you have a 110mm stack right next to where your discharging !?!?! You cannot have the 50mm run going all that way and then dropping vertically without an AAV at the head of the run. Id never run it like that as even with an AAV you'll likely cause enough of a vacuum in the drop to pull on the sink trap. We've just had a thread here showing that this doesn't work, and that dropped in 50mm too, with an AAV, but still wouldnt let the shower discharge. . Get a proper 110mm boss socket, agreed that where possible you should avoid strap-on bosses but I've fitted hundreds without issue, and put them into that. TBH where you have the Y branch with the 45 and the blank you can just add another branch instead of the 45 and then fit one of these to collect the 50mm pipe with all other teed in to the 50mm accordingly. Dont do the long run, its proper naff

If theres no sensible room to go for the pop-up sockets, then make the rear units 'drawer-line' and make a false drawer front thats hinged at the bottom and drops forward using those slider type stays that arrest the fall. Then have your sockets / outlets on a false panel set in about 100mm. When in use the drawer front simply says down, when not they go bye bye when you 'shut' the drawer. All depends on whether or not the socket will be left with something nearly always plugged into it, or if its for occasional use, bearing in mind SWMBO can plug the dog and bone in just a couple of meters away on a worktop socket

And you can make the back to back units wall units instead of base units so instead of 1200mm depth it gives you 900mm depth. Then you get the knee tuck for sitting but also a full width of units for stability. For a smaller island though id go with Peters suggestion as that will give you a 'squarer' base rather than the teeter-totter you may get with the 600+300 ( depth ) arrangement. If you fit the 300mm units outboard of the middle of the worktop, you'll have a ~600mm gap to sit at the 'breakfast bar' side of the island. Not entirely sure id like a pan of hot water in my lap though so perhaps this size island doesn't lend itself to being 'sat at'?

IIRC where @Barney12 got all his self-fit kit.

I am currently adopting this discipline for all new PV enquiries Its a no-brainer AFAIC, and means that you only have to go back on the roof if a panel snuffs it. Beware doing this as the manufacturer warranty can be voided if you dont use the connectors / connection method they stipulate. TBH the correct connectors were pennies on a 5.4kWp array so no point in not adhering to that regardless. My knee-jerk was to solder and heat shrink, but the supplier of the ( LG iirc ) panels said they should remain locally demountable and soldering wouldnt perming that. Makes sense upon reflection its just I would have soldered them without as second thought as your guaranteed a low resistance life-long joint that way. As there will be an E / S mix of elevations I suggested ( after a nudge from @PeterW ) they went for single panel optimisation, ( attic mounted in one unified location where access is clear, decked and lit, for the MVHR unit ), and then from the attic down to the garage where the inverter will reside directly below the CU. Solar Edge inverter with Export Limitation set for 3.85kW cut off, ( so no dancing around the DNO ), and with a 12 year warranty and dry capacitors make them my No.1 choice. Yup, very long warranty available with certain panels / manufacturers, but in fairness I don't see LG disappearing overnight so am confident with that warranty tbh.

With the amount of tanking you did you could get away without grout

+1. If it's not bed n butter then expect them to come back up by themselves. No need for matting, don't waste your money. Make 100% sure you do not grout to the wall so there's available expansion in the whole tiled area ?

Please, DONT try this at home. ?

Ill update later.

To fortify your water supply with accumulators wont just solve the pressure & flow problem, but will, as a bi-product, also give you an exceptionally good water supply to the house You will need to plan the pipework well in advance and get the correct sizes of pipework from A>B>C plus the power for the tubular heater etc. The softener ( if required ) will need to go before the accumulators, but you can arrange the pipework accordingly and have the softener in the dwelling for ease of service if preferred. Personally I'd leave it outside with the accumulators so it can regenerate with as little annoyance as possible.

Your phone / torch based solution is magic mate. Exactly what I would have done ( eg used your phone not mine )

Got it down to 35oC now eh Dave ? .

Go to PumpsUkLtd and select 'accessories'. Go to expansion vessels ( blue = potable ) and see the prices and the dimensions ( download PDF ). ?

Best if you can keep it outside so you get cold water that's still cold. .