Nickfromwales

Not really. Its only a 25 gal tank which would have emptied out doing the hot water. Then, with like 4 litres per min std on the ball valve, it will be refilling when you go and whack the cold tap on full so doesn't stand a chance. Not quite. The two bodies of water meet in the outlet pipework so not a true cold mains / gravity hot tap If the back pressure from running the cold flat out is greater than the outlet gauze / nozzle doodah on the tap spout then it'll start to push against gravity hot, if both taps are ever fully opened. You'll be fine in the interim if you just run the hot first and then shut the hot tap, and then open the cold tap on its own. Another quick cheat would be a single check NRV on the hot until the UVC fairy gets you a used tank for nowt when one pops up

Crossed with J. As per my last, hence, you can put PVC singles in a minimal trunking or conduit and it is compliant.

The requirement is one layer of electrical insulation, and one layer or means of mechanical protection. The outer layer being sacrificial to the inner.

50 pages. A nice even number

My point. Are you better off / would it be easier to just get the one 16mm into the house and do everything else from the ( assume it will be ) DB3 ?

Just cut off the back of the trim and it'll sit down a bit better Problem? What problem?

You could make the 16 off into a temporary outside unit in anticipation?

Well hurry up and build the garage then, simples !

SWA's can then come off the garage CU then, metal clad, with ease.

If you can get them in without any major effort then fine, but I was referring to the second CU as DB2 in the garage, so you'd then only be penetrating the house once with the 16.

Ok. Cant you just run the 16.0mm2 to the garage and then feed the other outside stuff from the second CU?

Normally I terminate the SWA outside in a good quality JB and then run twin and earth into the dwelling through the outside wall. Terminate the equipment end with aIP switch / socket or IP isolator? What are the runs feeding? Any heavy loads?

Point conceded, as I only ever fit Honeywell.

There are two types of zone valve, 3 wire and 5 wire. In the 3 wire you have brown blue and earth, energise to operate, de-energise and it shuts under stored energy ( integral return spring which gets stretched when the motor pushes the valve under electrical energy input ). No energy is present until a call for heat etc is made. The 5 wire does exactly the same but has a microswitch which gets struck by the actuator arm as it gets to 'top dead centre' of its travel. That microswitch is permanently energised by the heating systems common connection 24/7 365. When it gets struck, eg the valve has moved to the fully open position, the microswitch output becomes live also, generating the 'call for heat' signal to the boiler / other. The lever valve is only meant for filling and draining the system when de-energised eg when new or when having maintenance / repair work carried out. If you push the lever over it may just 'bump' the microswitch and flash a brief call for heat, but it will not keep it depressed. Thats done on purpose so numbnuts plumbers can't call out and make themselves look like heroes by locking on faulty valves, to 'keep you going until the new part arrives", which would remove all thermostatic control of your unvented cylinder. The title says "staying powered" and is correct, so no issue unless theres a fault.

You're damn lucky the oil tank didn't split! That would have been crazy expensive to clean up afterwards. "narrow escape there" !

Thats exactly how I tile the bath panels, so carry on !

No retreat. No surrender ?

If you think taking a heat gun to plastic tile trim will end in success, I’d recommend laying off da crack-pipe for a few days ?

Stick to IT luv

I think that’s about your only option. Having balls bigger than your brain is the problem here, as even I wouldn’t look forward to tiling that multi-angled extravaganza Pack the intersection with silicone so it’s oozing out of the gaps and then wipes a plenty to finish it flush. Should look reasonably seem-less then tbh. ?

From tiling to sheep in a wink of an eye ???

Yup.

Just remember to go over the ditra to make sure you haven’t got any lifts or ruffles as you’ll then have to bring all the floor up to those high points. A 4’ length of 3x2 is a good guager and will quickly identify any ‘bumps’.

10mm notch under the ditra will squash down to 3 or 4mm as it fills the egg box profile underneath. The 10mm notch above will do more or less the same, but allow 6mm total upper adhesive thickness and you should be ok. The ditra becomes a sandwich inbeyween the two layers of adhesive so you don’t need to allow much for it in actuality.

SA are looking at thickening the case sides and embossing them to gain rigidity.