Nickfromwales

If there is a pump circulating water between the TS and the manifold pump, check the pump isolation valves are fully open.

What are the two readings on the two gauges?

Has the system been purged? eg has cold mains been used to force all the air through the loops. Next, are all the isolation vales open? Follow the pipes from the thermal store all the way to the manifold and see whats in the path. Confirm that they're all open / functioning etc. Hopefully you'll have a 2-port zone valve between the TS and the manifold to stave off unwanted heat loss during the non heating season. Still be interested in that slotted valve to the right of the head.

Note the position of the thermostatic head with marker pen, and open it fully anticlockwise. Give it 20 mins and check for heat. If still no heat, get a flat blade screwdriver and turn the slotted valve, ( on the adjacent pipe to the right of it ), again anticlockwise, and see if that gets things shifting.

Is the manifold all open? Do you have actuators? One rail has the actuators and the other should have flow gauges. The flow gauges turn anti-clockwise ( 3 revolutions maxinum !! ) to allow / regulate the flow. Check these are not tight closed ( try turning clockwise, if they move then they’re open ).

Water. Primer. Mop. Pour SLC. Pub. ?

You won’t be able to sprinkle anything on top after pouring the Ultra, as if anything is added it will need to have been thoroughly mixed in prior to pouring it. If you sprinkle anything over it it won’t be part of the floor and you’d literally be able to brush it off after. If you have to purchase X qty of SLC + other then if I was you I’d just bite the bullet and go all SLC. Trust me, when you alter the SLC even slightly, you’ll all but completely lose its self levelling qualities and it’ll just be a lump on the floor that’ll require tooling into position. With regards to priming, use the Ultra primer and water it down about 75% water 25% primer and load a mop bucket with a proper janitors mop head. Mop the floor in its entirety and look for spots that dry out instantly, saturating these points as you go. Repeat that mopping until you’ve got the whole area primed. Immediately prior to pouring the SLC you do exactly the same again, but only mop and saturate the area you’re laying. Never let SLC hit a dry or warm floor, it must be cold and sopping wet. If you think there’s too much primer down, that’s the right amount.

A cheap price here

Same place i always do. Add flues, fire valves, oil lines, watchmans, etc and up she goes. I've been doing it long enough to know, plus I'm not quoting DIY, I'm quoting what you'll pay to have it installed through a 3rd party. Glass half full when its DIY vs fag packet, and glass half empty when you get the costs with all of the peripherals

I had the same chat today. Work is very much 'in progress'

In honesty, i think you need an accreditation from SA to install. The physical part of the install is dead straight forward, but the planning and design is uber critical. If there's a wee dram of cooking sherry left over, i may consider it

Theres no way in a million years that the above is more expensive than an oil boiler ( circa £2k+ ) and a tank + lines + slab + installation, plus at least £800-£1k for a decent TS, prob moe like £1.2k tbh. Have you been at the cooking sherry ?

The only issue with fortifying a SLC with any type of aggregate / other is that it seriously loses its self levelling qualities. What sort of area are we talking about, and is it consistently 10mm or is that an average / worst case?

I found @readiescards a 9kW IVT HP for £700, and the Sunamp for DHW would be £2k to £2.3K depending upon size 9 or size 12

Considering this is without the cellulose blown in yet, it’s going to get a fair bit better me thinks. +1 to Darren’s tenacity, top guys doing top work, and all ( annoyingly ) in their stride. ?

You’ve got minutes to live. !!!!!!!

Agreed. It has to go

Hi and welcome aboard. @recoveringacademic is your man for newts, he has a breeding program on his site

I've said it once, and I'll say it again..... "Tis a thing of beauty".

You can only insulate the body and not the head or you’ll damage the pump. Is this issue only for when the pump is off? Try one of these and see if that helps?

He has MANY problems ???

Given the multitude of wiring sins I’ve come across in my time, in a nutshell, no.?

That’s an efficient explanation but the textbook requirement for boiler overrun is other. A sealed and pressurised system boiler can shut off at full heat with no detrimental effect. However, if the same happens in a ‘heat only’ boiler then the heat exchanger instantly super heats the water to the point that the overheat stat nuisance activates, requiring manual reset. Therfore the overrun is, in old money, to stop the residual heat in the boiler kettling the water and causing lock out. That’s why you don’t see 2-port or diverter valves on a heat only install, instead you have the mid-position valve which never closes 100% shut like the others do. So, to answer the question about overrun on your boiler setup, simply allow the heating to come on for 10 mins or so, and before it gets a chance to achieve the set point temp of the boiler controls, you shut the heating controls off ( not the power ) and see if the pump instantly goes off. If it is energised for a couple of minutes after call for heat has gone then you have a pump overrun arrangement and you can’t go all 2-port. However #2, if your overrun goes into heating your stuffed anyway as the 2 x 2-ports will close ? and at that stage you’d need a T before the 2x 2-ports that goes into an automatic bypass valve and back to return. Clear as mud lol. ?

Yup. Like that. Much simpler to control. Does your boiler do pump overrun ?

I was bored ?