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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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Automatic bypass on the manifold playing up ?
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I think the aqualisa one looks 100 times better tbh. And the Mira I was referring to was the one you linked to in the first bump eg the basic valve without the box of gubbings. That's a fall-back if you HAVE to run direct off gravity with no pump.
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I bought a deep square socket that went in the impact for putting these tails in. Bloody thing was terrifying. Used it once, then it went into the 'safe place' I keep all the other crap things ive bought.
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15-18 turns on most rad valves should suffice, but you need to stop turning when the threads meet the rad as they'll keep going until it pops out the other side ( inside the rad ). I wouldn't threadlock them as they may not be un-doable afterwards. Only bother with that if they keep coming loose.
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As per the above pics, or fit the Aqualisa pumped digital shower. One customer recently said he'd had no issues with the pumped version, plus when I fitted a SA for him and removed his hot water cylinder I simply ordered the replacement high pressure hot / cold digital mixer unit to replace the gravity ( pumped ) one. Took an hour to upgrade so if you ever ditch the gravity system you wont have to change the shower. Other option is to go for a regular mixer shower and put a pump in the attic ( which I think will need to be a negative head type as it'll have no gravity for initial 'start up' flow ), and then if you change to a combi boiler later on again that would need no alteration other than taking the pump out of line. @TheMitchells the Mira is a very expensive but is a very robust valve, with remarkably good flow with poor pressure. What head do you have ? ( what is the distance between the shower head outlet as fitted, and the bottom of the cold water tank in the attic )?
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Toilet seats are fitted from the top with captive fittings so no need to remove the pan to change those either.
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Not for a leak I said If the pan gets damaged then that's about the only reason you'd need to remove it.
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Either or.... Sikaflex is quite unpleasant to remove at a later date, but will give a better grab. Truth is you don't need any more grab than the CT1 provides so up to you.
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When the curtains are turning into poppadum's, its time to apply the brakes
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Garage Boiler Room with DHT Setup
Nickfromwales replied to Our_Valleys_build's topic in General Plumbing
How many showers running at the same time? What's your cold mains like? ( static pressure and litres per minute flow rate ). -
………….moving SWIFTLY on...………….
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Right. The pan is not 600mm wide, so what is the actual bow over the ~360-380mm width of the pan? Not really. The foam will compress in the middle and not at the outer edges, so will be worse than the CT1 as it'll have zero 'grab' as its not an adhesive. Basically you'll be giving the pan something to move on. Dry fit the pan, get it level, and then mask up the tiles and the pan. Loosen the fixings so you have a 5mm gap all round the pan, pump in the CT1 and then re-fit. When you tighten up you'll see the excess CT1 being displaced, and when the centre section stops displacing it you're good to go. Make sure the pan is not off centre or pointing 'in either direction' and then set about clearing off the excess with wipes, then de-mask, and then a final wipe up so there is a gap left for white silicone to be applied as a cosmetic finish ( after the CT1 has fully cured ). Once the CT1 has gone off, the thicker layers at the far left and right will have gone solid and will be creating a fix between the pan and the tiles, vs the foam gasket which would be doing neither.
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Soil pipe is pretty much bombproof. I have been plumbing for over 23 years and cannot recall any more than a couple of leaking joints in all that time. @Onoff used the solvent weld fittings as he didn't want the knuckle showing proud of the stud framework and after cleaning and solvent welding with gap filler ( totally bombproof ) he pooped his pants and smeared CT1 over the joints ( pointless tbh, but it made him happy so I didn't say anything ) and then leak tested it. Just imagine how many soil systems are connected and then buried / boxed-in every day, and then you'll realise its a storm in a teacup. The stuff is fit and forget unless you're a very bad plumber ( eg not a plumber at all ) I've lost count of how many bathrooms I've done, and not had one leak EVER...….and trust me, a leak on that type of pipe is noticeable REAL soon ?
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ASHP- struggling to warm house in the cold weather
Nickfromwales replied to Jude1234's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Agreed, and a very important point to reiterate. Not everyone achieves perfection, but anything above the usual Uk BRegs is a welcome improvement tbh. -
Just be slow and careful, and use the wipes for clean up
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ASHP- struggling to warm house in the cold weather
Nickfromwales replied to Jude1234's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
The temp delivered by the ASHP is dictated at the point of commissioning, so if your using more energy at the mo then it wouldn’t be unreasonable to see the ASHP running more than normal. If it’s performing ‘admirably’ at all other times then I’d not worry. What does it do in ‘better’ weather ? -
Definitely. Can’t be too sure eh ? ?? 15-20 years and @Onoff may be free to tile it for you......... Disclaimer :- “may”
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- floor slabs
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Just to the most you'll ever see, so if 23 was producing the desired output then you're done. TBH after 2 years I doubt if it'll make a blind bit of difference as that's pretty much 'cured' now for sure.
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- floor slabs
- ufh
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ASHP- struggling to warm house in the cold weather
Nickfromwales replied to Jude1234's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Flow temp of the manifold is a critical bit of info here. Need to find out if the ASHP is getting useful heat to the manifold and then the manifold is conveying that to the UFH loops. Does your manifold have temp gauges? If not can you get 'baby head' thermometer strips and fix them on to get a yardstick? UFH needs surprisingly little to get it all warmed through, so how thick is your slab? -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
That's what I would do. Must say, its all coming together nicely . Yes to the silicone around the spots, not grease. Silicone would clean off no problem if needed, whereas the grease will just end up doing nowt. 5 LEDs across the front is 'spot' on. -
What is this bit called and where do I buy them?!
Nickfromwales replied to divorcingjack's topic in Underfloor Heating
Oh dear...….. I wonder where he thought the hot water was coming from, if he thought that was for UFH -
Shower drain, help required, please.
Nickfromwales replied to TheMitchells's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Yup. Or if not, can you take it to a drain by dropping down the outside wall? If the drains are combined ( foul and rain ) then you could go and tap into the downpipe with a snow box. -
Diy underfloor heating, supplier
Nickfromwales replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Plumbing
You've never lived...… -
Glad I couldn’t afford it ?
