Nickfromwales

The firring pieces would sit whichever way you want the fall.

A vent is required to promote ventilation of the sewer gasses to atmosphere.

You'll have a sloped ceiling then . Much easier to whack everything in flat and put firring pieces on.

? 'ng good, but I'm a bugger for lining up the noggins and dovetail nailing / screwing instead ofcend fixing the staggered runs. A treated timber would make life easier for pinning the joists and would give you something to fix a pelmet to if that would be aesthetically pleasing. It may cause issue though if you intend rendering up to a soffit board as there would be a 2" gap of timber between the blockwork and the soffit.

Yes, PIR aka most rigid insulation boards. Colotex is a brand of PIR ?

I'm just wondering if I'm feeling cruel enough to make you show the noggins . Looks good. With the PIR and full full wool in the voids that should be a decent make up. Dont forget to dig the slot in the ground for the swim-jet. .

Best to go an lay some larch out now so it can be conditioned to match when you box it in?

Can the main MVHR inlet be ducted to a remote filter housing, located conveniently for regular access / maintenance? Just thinking for future installs if the filters can be mounted where they're easily accessible without dismantling the main unit then that would be preferential. Obviously not miles away from the unit, but as long as the duct wasn't in excess of the length of inlet stipulated by the manufacturer, or was enlarged to have the same ( equal or < ) resistance then I think that would be a good discipline to adopt. @JSHarris, any further thoughts on your downwards 'inlet snorkel' ?

Bingo

Very sorry Ed, but its BH policy that members who dont yet fully feel our pain are politely reminded not to encourage this madman. Were trying to get it tiled and grouted before xmas. Dont ask which xmas PLEASE !

He shoots.....he scores, lol. Yes, that's the kiddy.

It's another day at the asylum. "Carry on", we've come this far .......?

Nope lol. Draw it with the 8x3 vertical so sandwiched between the joists. .

Or some big ass firring pieces over the joists, run t'other way, with PIR cut in between ?

Ok. Your pic shows 2x 4m timbers making up the 8m span. That I assume means your showing the break in the run on top of the 6m steel ? You cannot have the break there unless the joints are mechanically fortified. Regs will ask for a certain distance for the joists to sit on the steel so the ends on the joists don't compress under the weight. The 8x3" would be in the middle of the steel, sat on top, running along its length and positioned vertically. The joists would then be made off into joist hangers affixed to the 8x3. Clear as mud ? I'll do a pic if your not sure.

Already suggested but issues with the cold bridge unless a lot of insulation goes over it.

Raised ? What for ?

@Ed Davies Ed, if you wish to 'mention' another member simply type the @ symbol and then the first couple of letters of their ID and then select from the drop down list that will appear. Like I have done above. To quote a segment of others posts just select the section of text and 'quote selection' will appear. Click that and it'll open the editor with that person notified that you have quoted them. Anything else you need to know just ask

You'd have a deep void between joists for lights ! Keep the ceiling high IMO.

For the joists to stop / start over the flitch you'd need a 8x3" joist above the flitch ( running in line with it ) and the timber ends would need to be mechanically fixed to the extra joist. You'd then have to noggin between the ceiling joists near to the beam to keep things true.

A manufactured flitch would look nice cleaned up and stained eg left on display. .

Hi and welcome. If not EPS then what was the suggested alternative?

They're nice little units. The L-shape stuff looks more expensive than it is so a good option. The cisterns do have the access through those panels, so the tops only ever need to come back off if there is a major failure.

Ah, yes. 2 heads better than one. Maybe better with a trio of 9x2's, joints staggered, and make a flitch beam. Best of both worlds ( timber faced already ) and then sit the firing pieces on top going perpendicular to the steel plates in the flitch to reduce the cold bridge. All depends if pillars are preferable or not, but pillars and a regular steel with the joists / firing pieces atop is probably the cheapest and quickest route. I'm pre-programmed to eliminate pillars and boxed in beams as I massively dislike both. OCD sorry.

A little chavvy, no ?