Nickfromwales

With the power turned off, expose the blues ( neutrals ) and ensure they're all made off together in the same block. A pic would really help here. With the blues checked out the power back on with the switch open. Test between COM and blue reading voltage and then do the same between L1 and blue. Then flick the switch and do L1 to blue again to see if the switch changes the state of L1. Sounds like a dodgy neutral to me but impossible to say down the Internet.

Does central heating work ? If so that eliminates; fan gas valve air switch and part eliminates the PCB. If no central heating and no hot water then first check is; does the fan spin and blow air out of the flue? Remeber you'll have to reset the boiler every time to check operation and as it is a stinking WB you'll have to wait a long time for it to do self-diagnostic each time. Give me a Baxi or a Vaillant any day.

Pumps on manifolds ? 3 manifolds? More info please

Deffo Gas. If there is a new supply in the house off yellow mdpe then it'll likely have been cut off in the pavement when new gas lines were last installed. Ask your local gas network transporter ( not the supplier ) to call out and test it for you. Say you think you can smell a feint whiff of gas coming from it and they'll be there within 2 hours, faster normally

+1 on not turning the water off. If you dig down, you'll probably need a means of directly disposing of the spoil as it will lead to further contamination if piled up and it rains for eg. Dig and skip or farmers trailer / other and get rid as you go.

I like the sizes of the rooms and the layout, but why the huge 'boiler room' and why don't you use some of that space to give yourself a shower ensuite ? Seems a strange use of that considerable floor space. Please do have a good read here about battery systems and their current longevity / RoI as there still seems a lot to discuss prior to investing a lot of capital into that endeavour. Nowt wrong with cabling for it in anticipation btw. ? With that amount of PV you'll find there isn't that much left for battery charging, after DHW / driving a heat pump, plus plug in loads / general / self consumption etc, so look at what ( excess ) you can produce before looking at what electric-dependant equipment / devices you'll consider installing . I'd focus on DHW first, and then look at how you'll manage space heating eg an ASHP used in the day to heat up the slab and then just a Willis heater to maintain / top-up the overnight temp, if required. If your at or around PH standards you may well be ok to go all-electric and do away with the heat pump.

You can have blue grout then to match the lights. ?

? I've been VAT registered for 30 days. ?? This place continues to be a very diverse and invaluable source of information and support.

Because the VAT man says so. Simples.

You can request penetrations in the steels ( prior to installation) and you can make holes in the Glulams. For eg on one build I have requested penetrations through 254mm UC's big enough to take a 110mm FW pipe through, and also, in the same steel, a penetration ( letterbox shape ) 51mm x 300mm for pipes and cables. They will be plated to fortify the section where the steel is compromised. The 315mm glulam will have 2x 60mm holes mid-span & mid section for 2x 50mm grey waste water pipes. All passed by MBC's SE.

Oh, and welcome to the forum ?

"Crossovers" should be done in the ample joust space and then the services dropped in order so they don't have to cross again . Not so important with cables but deffo with pipes. You shoukdbt actually have that many pipes in the same single service void so a bit of planning goes a long way ?

Same one but cheaper. Too lazy to scroll through prices sorry

The kitchen is a no brainer for silicone / other flexible sealing. Thats oranges and the bathroom is apples. So, for the bathroom, mix a bit of grout up and use the float to push it deep into the grout line / gaps. You should be doing that until you see the force of the float make grout ooze out above and below the float edges. Leave to partially cure before running a square edged float / other up the internals and sponge off the remainder making sure to clean it all off the already grouted bits. Id only then recommend getting into the silicone sealing IF the grout lines start to show signs of movement. If they dont, you dont need silicone. If you dont ram the grout in there then dont expect the results

For the turtles of course !

Why do you think they called it a cock-pit ?

Why don't you just make a hole in the bottom of the boat and pee into that?

And then the shit really hits the fan. Thats the equivalent of 8 against 1

The Bal grouts are nice, very fine, but the adhesives are just crazy money. When fitting for a local 'luxury' bathroom showroom I noticed one customers bill had adhesive at £65+VAT per bag........12.5kg's not 20 ?

Fit a urinal in your house and you'll be staying single mate. I would not want my house looking like the pub or the motorway services. I'm old fashioned and just pee standing up but actually keep the floor dry. Guys working for me get told with no doubt left that if they piss all over the customers toilet / floor etc they will be paying to clean it up. Pet hate of mine. My two boys must re-inact scenes out of Star Wars thinking their dicks are light sabres, brings a whole new meaning to "wet room" grrrrrrr.

Buy a cheap set of stairs and get it temporarily fitted. This one is free delivery.

Nice bath. You'll need lifeguard on duty when the kids are in it

Jesus! I hope your hot water still works ok ?

All pointless, as when his missus reads through this he's going to be buried alongside the new cold mains pipe outside. ?

A good show of tenacity as usual. Having the right crowd makes all the difference TBH, and bucketing concrete in the digger is a show of grit 'n' determination. Excellent end to what must have been a very long day for the MBC guys.