Nickfromwales

A couple of small bump stops top and bottom would stop the door ever meeting the paint

“Dunbar revisited” ?

You’ll be finishing it yourself if you open that in front of me ??

Hint Hint lol. PM me your mobile whilst I work out if I'm passing you at any time soon Cant be that much to do?

You could puts straight male 15mm x 1/2" chrome 'copper to irons' in the rad, then short pieces of chrome pipe, then straight rad valves, then more chrome pipe and then into chrome comp 90's. That way you'll be able to put the valves 'mid-way' thus satisfying OCD 18 turns should suffice. Crossed with the other replies.

Have you paid them? Did they agree to be done at a certain date? Given your situation they must have understood you were 'keen' to move in?

What hill lol? It’s flat as a witches tit there Prob just one from the demolished house ?

The PVs are quite complex bits of kit compared to the UniQ series. Still a huge improvement over a TS or UVC imo.

Too late to rock the boat imho. You need to keep on good terms and retain labour / integrity warranties so just keep your head down and find something else to distract you as the days tick away. Theres always something to do. Worst case just get some cheap electric fan heaters and boil the kettle ?

I'll let the good folk at William Hill know the updated info

Certainly a labour of much love. Not an envious task that, especially to get it looking good.

Noted, but point remains if persuaded to go the electric ( short and sweet ) route. Typing whilst herding kids for the school run

Remember with the old folk that you REALLY should be fitting good quality THERMOSTATIC electric showers if you're going the electric shower route. These absolutely guard against scalding and give a far more reliable shower during fluctuations in the cold mains. My 2 penneth is that electric showers are the anti-christ, and when compared to wet thermostatic units are just miserable. Any of the tanking kits are ok tbh. Impey will be expensive, and the last load of my wet room projects have been with the Aquaseal / similar branded kits with great results. If you can pee, you can tank. Dead simple. The aqua grade system is equally easy, and takes all thought out of a graded, screed covered floor.

Leave it fill with water and have a stream leading to the pond

Have you thought about a mains pressurise hot water device? At least that would allow you to get away from ghastly electric showers now during the refurb The under ( tile ) heating would need to be Impey Aqua Mat if its going to be a true wet room, as that mat is tested whilst being submerged in ( IIRC ) 6" of water so is truly waterproof whilst also retaining its integrity in such circumstances. Its a good quality mat too. Be sure to go for 150w/m2 if onto an unsympathetic floor structure, but 100w/m2 fortified with a wall mounted towel radiator would be a better combination as I think with such a small floor area you'll struggle to get the kind of heat that 'old folk' will appreciate. The Impey Aqua Grade system allows you to make the floor up as required and then you just back-fill with screed. Really is simple and bombproof. If your builder is good, he'll probably be fine grading the floor without such a system. Guaranteed results with the AG system though.

Ignore them......let’s get to the smashing and the building of the dream. Looks like a posh garden shed at the moment. Heave-ho !!

Wheres the chuffing cream you tight bastard.?

Yup. Worthy of its right place, that lot

Hi and welcome. Dont be shy !!

Agree. To run a retro fit dwelling off SA's is a very tricky, and costly, equation. Perhaps concentrate on fabric first and then look again once you've reduced your energy requirements? If you do go for a wood burning stove then also make sure its room sealed and takes its air from a ducted run to outside, as that'll keep the ventilation losses of the WBS to a minimum. TBH, I'd use that money on PV and batteries and reduce your homes footprint in other ways. ASHP's aren't matched to high temperature emitters like traditional central heating radiators, so beware any cock-sure salesmen folk who tell you it is. In fairness, if you get PV to offset the electricity consumption and fortify with battery storage for nighttime use you'll be in a reasonably good place, but again beware of the high temp requirements. Fabric improvements and serious draught-proofing will help out considerably there. Another option is to change the radiators ( probably get away with doings downstairs only ) to much bigger / lower temp requirement ones but at that stage an electric boiler is still on the list IMO. A SA for DHW would be a good move however, as any electric combi will be a monstrous unit to get any even slightly decent flow rates / capacity. An electric boiler providing dumb heat only would be very efficient and very compact. PV would then give you free DHW and with really high flow rates ( via the SA ) so still retaining a bit of luxury too. FYI electric combis are heat-store / thermal store based units so need to be on 24/7 or timed well in advance of needing DHW.......yuk. Not good.

Link ..... oooohhh this humble pie tastes good ...... ?

What will the internal floor space ( finished ) measure? Nothing wrong with a screeded floor which is falling to a drain, just need to be good at it so it’s consistent and free draining.

Just remove all sharp objects from the house first

Yup. Dead simple. If your solar diverter isn’t in yet you can just bridge 230v in the SA Qontroller and it’ll run happily that way as a temporary measure for proving. Tell your guy it’ll have a bit of an on / off ‘crazy 5 minutes’ with the contractor kicking in and out a lot, which is supposed to happen. It’s to pulse heat in at the start and allow the PCM to start melting gently from the crystallised form. Sounds like something between electrical arcing and a scrumpled up crisp packet quietly unfolding. Not loud, but quite off putting when firing up your first unit

Fell that and plant something that will root locally. Conifers for eg. You can then put a ground barrier in also to train new roots and stop them becoming problematic in the future. I think running ring beams either side of the root could work, and just have insulation there not concrete. An SE should come up with a solution if they are the type that engage and enjoy a challenge. As said, how much will you spend / compromise for a tree? If it were me I’d have just chopped it down on day one and pretended that I don’t speak english. “Que?”