Nickfromwales

A pressure reducing valve on the cold mains at source sound like a good solution. Even if you turn the stopcock down to a dribble, the static pressure will be the same once it equalises. You were right to bring things into the year 2000, so stick to your guns. Just a shame the plumbers didn't give you a bit more advice on the pro's and con's before getting paid and moving on. Still doesn't make them terrible, just a bit complacent.

Not entirely sold on that statement, biased as I may be. I have heard plenty of woes where there was little or no synergy between 'fellow trades'. Unless you intend to PM them and make sure that there is constant and recognised dialogue between trades, don't expect that to 'automatically' go well. It will require your continued intervention and constant double-checking that things are being executed as promised. Asking questions and including the replies in the contracts will be your parachute. Tell the chosen professionals that you will expect the systems to work, exactly as they have been asked to, as in what they promised when they quoted to supply them as fit for the described purpose. Assumptions will kill you dead, and trades will hang onto those for dear life for defence if / when you overlook things and don't cement them as the expected criterium. This can be very easy, or very hard. Many on here report varying mixed bags of results, but the information is here by the bucket load if you wish to search for it. The good news is people here have shared the good / bad / and downright life-changing ugly, from which you and others may benefit. I know I have Fill your boots

Ola! Yes, turn the upstairs ones down to 3 ( out of 5 ) and try again as the sooner they get to temp and start to strangle flow the better it’ll be for downstairs. 3 on most is around 21oC, but if your valves go to 6 or higher then choose the halfway mark. You’re just overheating the upstairs rooms otherwise. ?

Nip some of the ones nearest the pump a 1/4 turn further closed. Leave for an hour and check. Dont forget balancing gets affected by temp changes and the TRV’s opening and shutting. So fro eg, when cold you may find its a mixed bag, but when warmed up a bit the upstairs TRV’s will partially or fully shut and the downstairs one mayvthen come on. Are they all on 22mm > 15mm pope runs or is there 10mm “microbore” in there too ?

Hi and welcome to BHub. Sounds like you’re asking the right questions at exactly the right time Fabric first approach will result in lower ongoing outgoings, but you need to decide how long you will reside there before writing any cheques. 10 years minimum on most renewables is a reasonable break-even estimate, but after that is really when you start to reap the rewards. Build airtight and go for MVHR either way as you can just burn gas if it’s a shorter term plan. If you’re leaving there on your back then time to decide whether to pay the utility’s companies forever or spend that on yourself and become energy wise. Grab a chair, a beer and some Nurofen, will be a steep learning curve but worth every minute you invest in making these decisions before it’s too late to change. Its not more more expensive to build passive per se but there is far more detail and attention required. You can mitigate against a HUGE amount of that worry by going for a TF / other supplier who will take you from slab through to the roof lights. Some of these will guarantee the air tightness test results so if you’re a novice then this has some serious attraction. Leaves you with only the M&E to worry about, and which kitchen to fit Ask lots of questions, the answers are free and impartial here. Good luck

I think we should all chuck a £1 in and find out

Hi and welcome from a fellow Welshman

Disagree in part. With the PU, applied religiously as I describe and as @PeterStarck has implemented, and then fortified with the measured 'knocking in' of the masonry fixings, there will be zero issue with doors / frames / movement. That's not speculation, that's from being in these TF houses in varying stages of completion, through to visiting occupiers 6-12 months after they have moved into completed builds. There will be more movement in the mid section of the timber stud wall than the junction between floor and sole plate, so panic yea not.

Buy 5 and you'll be up 100% !!! What are you waiting for?

I just spat mine out after reading that ??? You get a Blue Peter PissHead badge for that. My sides are still hurting. Nutter.?

At 2 bar, its deffo a 500L. That'll be less dependant on being left between recharges. As, IIRC, you'll still be going for a SA for DHW, you'll not suffer the issues with irregular flow rates equating to equally irregular DHW production from such things as a combi, so the worst thing you'll have is changes in flow rate, but not necessarily in temperature. For eg, your shower would run faster / slower, but not hotter / colder. It is imperative that you take the outside tap, domestic appliances and WC's off the incoming mains supply BEFORE the NRV that isolates the accumulator, which could see you getting away with a smaller accumulator ( subject to your deemed / known water consumption ).

I REALLY need to start revising my NAPIT. Just need there to be about 27 hours in a day to free up some time ?

That's the winner folks. PU expands and fills the voids, just be sure to have a wet rag to hand to wet the timber and the floor ( as its moisture cure ). Much better than gripfill as that doesn't 'squish' out at all. If you grip fill a timber down and whack it off the next day, you'll see the snake like trail where you applied it with very little area covered. After bonding down and finishing the stud wall framework, get some 75mm Obo ( masonry ) nails and whack them through the 44mm timber until 20mm is left proud for additional mechanical fix ( if the wall is very long ).

I'm not a fan of bonding directly to the 'laminate' top layer of Caber so that's just me. Seen enough decoupled to put me off. 2-part aka fastflex / ultraflex is an option in extreme situations ( more expensive than unicorn piss ) but a good exchange HERE for your perusal.

It’s not “where does it get its cold from”....it’s “there’s my blending valve that only allows X amount of heat in” The ‘cold’ is the heated water in the loops which needs topping back up ( an exchange takes place in the blending valve where cooled water is ejected by fresh heated water being allowed in under the pressure of the pump flow ).

Beware mould release agent on the underside of the tray ( from the manufacture process ). I use the tile adhesive like Ajax and scrub the bottom of the tray until I can see the adhesive wanting to stick to it, and then sponge it off. Apply a bit more as a bed for the tray to set into the adhesive you've applied to the floor.

Same applies, re the prime and flexible tile adhesive.

Forget sand and cement, its the worst advice given by far Ideally you should be gluing and screwing at least a 6mm layer of plywood down and then sticking the trays down into a bed of flexible tile adhesive. Wet / prime the ply first and then it'll stick like shit to a blanket.

If its sat directly above the 'buffer' and needs no lengthy pipework ( wasted time and fittings / pipe ) then yes, will do the job. You should know by now that I hate header tanks / open pipe systems ?

Just add a small EV and fill it up manually. Sealed kit

Depends if the TF company offers a turnkey solution.

That can be of benefit, as the layers outside of the tray area bring you close to a flush floor / level entry into the shower. What you have to do is watch the point loading of the bath feet. For me I'd run the insulation board within about 100mm of the feet and then backfill the remaining void with self leveller / tile adhesive so where all 4 / 5 bath feet hit the deck there is solid tile > adhesive > deck underneath.

Wont a TF kit supplier encompass the SE side on your behalf? Seems an odd statement to just get you to engage these professional so soon in the process. The QS I agree on, but I'd have thought you nedd to get a bit more ground covered with your architect first maybe? Do you have a draft design that you've settled on yet?

Goes without saying Close up of the plumbing shows one pipe teed back into the other. Have you gone with a hot return?