Nickfromwales

Nip some of the ones nearest the pump a 1/4 turn further closed. Leave for an hour and check. Dont forget balancing gets affected by temp changes and the TRV’s opening and shutting. So fro eg, when cold you may find its a mixed bag, but when warmed up a bit the upstairs TRV’s will partially or fully shut and the downstairs one mayvthen come on. Are they all on 22mm > 15mm pope runs or is there 10mm “microbore” in there too ?

Hi and welcome to BHub. Sounds like you’re asking the right questions at exactly the right time Fabric first approach will result in lower ongoing outgoings, but you need to decide how long you will reside there before writing any cheques. 10 years minimum on most renewables is a reasonable break-even estimate, but after that is really when you start to reap the rewards. Build airtight and go for MVHR either way as you can just burn gas if it’s a shorter term plan. If you’re leaving there on your back then time to decide whether to pay the utility’s companies forever or spend that on yourself and become energy wise. Grab a chair, a beer and some Nurofen, will be a steep learning curve but worth every minute you invest in making these decisions before it’s too late to change. Its not more more expensive to build passive per se but there is far more detail and attention required. You can mitigate against a HUGE amount of that worry by going for a TF / other supplier who will take you from slab through to the roof lights. Some of these will guarantee the air tightness test results so if you’re a novice then this has some serious attraction. Leaves you with only the M&E to worry about, and which kitchen to fit Ask lots of questions, the answers are free and impartial here. Good luck

I think we should all chuck a £1 in and find out

Hi and welcome from a fellow Welshman

Disagree in part. With the PU, applied religiously as I describe and as @PeterStarck has implemented, and then fortified with the measured 'knocking in' of the masonry fixings, there will be zero issue with doors / frames / movement. That's not speculation, that's from being in these TF houses in varying stages of completion, through to visiting occupiers 6-12 months after they have moved into completed builds. There will be more movement in the mid section of the timber stud wall than the junction between floor and sole plate, so panic yea not.

Buy 5 and you'll be up 100% !!! What are you waiting for?

I just spat mine out after reading that ??? You get a Blue Peter PissHead badge for that. My sides are still hurting. Nutter.?

At 2 bar, its deffo a 500L. That'll be less dependant on being left between recharges. As, IIRC, you'll still be going for a SA for DHW, you'll not suffer the issues with irregular flow rates equating to equally irregular DHW production from such things as a combi, so the worst thing you'll have is changes in flow rate, but not necessarily in temperature. For eg, your shower would run faster / slower, but not hotter / colder. It is imperative that you take the outside tap, domestic appliances and WC's off the incoming mains supply BEFORE the NRV that isolates the accumulator, which could see you getting away with a smaller accumulator ( subject to your deemed / known water consumption ).

I REALLY need to start revising my NAPIT. Just need there to be about 27 hours in a day to free up some time ?

That's the winner folks. PU expands and fills the voids, just be sure to have a wet rag to hand to wet the timber and the floor ( as its moisture cure ). Much better than gripfill as that doesn't 'squish' out at all. If you grip fill a timber down and whack it off the next day, you'll see the snake like trail where you applied it with very little area covered. After bonding down and finishing the stud wall framework, get some 75mm Obo ( masonry ) nails and whack them through the 44mm timber until 20mm is left proud for additional mechanical fix ( if the wall is very long ).

I'm not a fan of bonding directly to the 'laminate' top layer of Caber so that's just me. Seen enough decoupled to put me off. 2-part aka fastflex / ultraflex is an option in extreme situations ( more expensive than unicorn piss ) but a good exchange HERE for your perusal.

It’s not “where does it get its cold from”....it’s “there’s my blending valve that only allows X amount of heat in” The ‘cold’ is the heated water in the loops which needs topping back up ( an exchange takes place in the blending valve where cooled water is ejected by fresh heated water being allowed in under the pressure of the pump flow ).

Beware mould release agent on the underside of the tray ( from the manufacture process ). I use the tile adhesive like Ajax and scrub the bottom of the tray until I can see the adhesive wanting to stick to it, and then sponge it off. Apply a bit more as a bed for the tray to set into the adhesive you've applied to the floor.

Same applies, re the prime and flexible tile adhesive.

Forget sand and cement, its the worst advice given by far Ideally you should be gluing and screwing at least a 6mm layer of plywood down and then sticking the trays down into a bed of flexible tile adhesive. Wet / prime the ply first and then it'll stick like shit to a blanket.

If its sat directly above the 'buffer' and needs no lengthy pipework ( wasted time and fittings / pipe ) then yes, will do the job. You should know by now that I hate header tanks / open pipe systems ?

Just add a small EV and fill it up manually. Sealed kit

Depends if the TF company offers a turnkey solution.

That can be of benefit, as the layers outside of the tray area bring you close to a flush floor / level entry into the shower. What you have to do is watch the point loading of the bath feet. For me I'd run the insulation board within about 100mm of the feet and then backfill the remaining void with self leveller / tile adhesive so where all 4 / 5 bath feet hit the deck there is solid tile > adhesive > deck underneath.

Wont a TF kit supplier encompass the SE side on your behalf? Seems an odd statement to just get you to engage these professional so soon in the process. The QS I agree on, but I'd have thought you nedd to get a bit more ground covered with your architect first maybe? Do you have a draft design that you've settled on yet?

Goes without saying Close up of the plumbing shows one pipe teed back into the other. Have you gone with a hot return?

The Tesla, AFAIA, has a limited throughput. Therefore, all that glitters ( and wow! does the Tesla glitter ) is not gold. For the given constraint on throughput, it is quite likely that you will invalidate your warranty by default before the unit suffers the expiry of its given ( broadcasted ) warranty period. Other manufacturers give an unlimited throughput, ( this is NOT often discussed, and apologies as I'm currently force-feeding myself on this subject and can only respond in line with current and ongoing 'enlightenment' ), and this should receive some serious recognition. Basically some manufacturers safeguard their arses by fitting an 'odometer', and when you've exceed the obligatory 100,000 mile mark, you're on your own. @vivienz is going for a system / supplier that I am working with, and they also supply ( 1000's of to date ) the Sofar system. They have, after in-depth and probably annoyingly and persistent hounding from myself, come up with a system that harmonises two battery controller / inverters to double the useable output to the house to around 7.2kW, which changes things dramatically when considering a battery system. Its still WiP but I'm confident this could be a game-changer for folk who have got to the tipping point of buying batteries and then backed out. More to follow, when I fully know what the Bobby Moore is. Questions welcome.

Oh, and maybe this bit of info will be of morale benefit in your hour of need :- If this was a retail bathroom, and I was charging for everything you have done to date, the price would be north of £20k. That's a lot of the weird shit you've drunk since this began. ?

"That's another fine mess you've got us into" lol. That's a pig of a cut to perform, but you've got this far Mitigate against damaging the other tile by putting a piece of metal tile trim / metal angle over the other tiles, inserted into the grout line and taped into place, and set about it with a sober hand and a level of determination unheard of until now. "You can do it, Deeds!". Go get it tiger, not long now