Inchbyinch

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About Inchbyinch

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  • Birthday May 18

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  • About Me
    builder/farmer trapped in an electrical engineers brain
  • Location
    Cork, Ireland

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  1. My UFH, Both manifolds previously were 26-27 on the flow maybe 22-24 on the return. Circulation pump and two manifold pumps were going at a high speed up to tonight and I slowed all of these down to their lowest setting. This has increased the temperature across all gauges by about 2-3 Deg but the ASHP is still operating at max frequency most of the time. It’s looking to achieve 40 DegC on the outlet and as it’s falling short it’s continually looking for a maxcompressor output. My Slab is a mix of 100 & 200 in some areas where my passive slab is thickened for a retaining wall (one bedroom really) What do you think Nick?
  2. Hi All, i came on here to ask the exact same question. I have a 12 kw kingspan/carrier unit walls and roof typically .1-.13 u-value 300m2 floor area 1400m of UFH across 15 zones 1.2 ACH air thightness I have the NUI controller and I cannot get the water leaving the unit to get anywhere near the 40deg setpoint.....typically with the compressor running @ max frequency (and max pressure) the discharge of the compressor is getting up to 65-82Degrees but the temperature of the water leaving the heat pump is only getting to max 37 and normally 32-34. It it is also on almost full time at the moment. Something doesn’t add up here.....how can the compressor discharge be so high and not raise the heated water temp much? Interested in replies. thnks ed
  3. So a quick update here. I have opened up the unit and found what I think is the OT switch. A Small black switch facing the pump perpendicular to the heating element. InPressed that in but can’t say I heard a click or anything. I then proceeded to re powered the unit and expected the unit to charge continuously but it heated for about 35 seconds (solar LED on solid) and the take a break for about a minute (solar LED blinking) and then started heating again. The element was getting very hot and the cooking again rapidly so I presume it was tripping out on an over temp. I ran the hot water tap to draw some water through the heat battery and see would that release any potential issues. The hot water seemed warm, above body temp but certainly not at 65 Deg (the TRV was fully open) I checked back at the unit and the providing heat LED was on and now the solar light was on solid, not switching on and off as it had done previously. I will await the final results in the morning but this exercise looks to have sorted it....whatever testing one would call that. My main problem during the day is that I’m at work during the SA opening hours so can’t get chatting to them! Thanks for for all the help here....gave me the confidence to start playing with it. r ed
  4. It’s the sunamp PV. Power is on pump is running everything seems to be going but no heat
  5. Should the four LEDs light solid? The air lock would make sense as we are having some issues gettin a flow switch to work. I remember you mentioned before about getting something into an awkward spot to release a valve
  6. Hi All, I temporarily commissioned my sunamp a few weeks ago, followed the instructions and was happy it was all working as it should. Now I have it wired up in a permanent arrangement, switching the solar through a time clock as I have no PV installed yet. I have an electrical meter on it to measure use. The problem is that now it doesn’t take any current and even when I run preheated hot water through it I’m getting cold water out. Hoping to move in next week with SWMBO and two toddlers next week and one more on the way🙈🙈. So hot water must be going!! Thanks in advance, Ed
  7. Push hard, got it after thanks. Ceiling in the way so can’t see it from the front. It’s installed in a ceiling void which is a bit tricky to get at Im just using cat 6 for the signals so used 1.5 straps to push it in
  8. Hi all, im having trouble terminating the block below. Any advice, solder? r ed
  9. 😂 That is certainly above the budget!! Thanks all the same. Appreciate the suggestions. Is there much to that adafruirt module?
  10. Ya, I’ve seen that on www but I’m not sure how reliable it is. They seem to run on ones domestic WiFi but I was hoping to get something akin to the computherm one that runs off a radio signal I think. Thanks all the same. Might look to get a few of those Sonoff ones and run them on their own WiFi networks see how it goes. R ed
  11. I’m looking to control the losnay MVHR system with some wireless humidity switches - similar to wireless temperature sensors. Does anyone know of any good ones? R ed
  12. Hi Jeremy, Just to clarify your thoughts on the above, you would recommend a coil for the circuit from the A2W to the buffer tank but you would leave the PHE in place and feed directly off the tank. in that case you would only need Glycol in the heating loop. So a tank with a single coil would do the trick? Is your thinking on this that the PHE would be more efficient at exchanging the heat than an internal coil or is it just
  13. Great people come in many forms but Mr Harris you are certainly one of them. Thanks forall all of the above. I'll keep you posted. R Ed
  14. @JSHarris outstanding as always. Based on the above and my situation would I be best to employ a reverse heat curve that slightly increases the cct temp with ambient....not sure is that possible. I think not. I might just increase the temp for the summer months to use the inline heater less. I promise I'll do a proper documented version of my house one of these days but with two under two and a full time job just to get the house built is more than I can muster. A side issue if I may, when looking at diodes and 12v relays etc...do you have the supplier you used? I was looking at these http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/#id_category=100051&s_field=artykul&s_order=ASC&visible_params=2%2C2%2C693%2C914%2C915%2C916%2C925%2C925%2C938&used_params=2%3A45221%3B925%3A24610%3B am I onthe right track?
  15. @JSHarris im about to start the install of this unit. I won't have solar PV (at the start But may retrofit) so I'll be heating a large buffer (500l) at the set flow rate and using this to preheat dhw with a plate heat exchanger before boosting with an in line heater. This based on your analysis that if PV wasn't feasible this was the most efficient way to heat a low energy house and get dhw Ive two questions, 1) what is the temp loss through your plate heat exchanger and how would one size it 2) what do you think is the max circ temperature that will avoid defrosts? thanks as ever ed