Nickfromwales

The doors were from Novellini . The company rep was an arsehole and the manufacturers literature was incorrect. As I had to get those doors mm perfect to get the two magnetic seals to be parallel, plumb and true, I was less than happy when I discovered that the dimensions in the technical literature were all one size out per line. The 720mm was on the 740mm line and so on all the way through to the 980mm option I chose ( off plan before even starting the room ) which was actually only 960mm when sat midway into the wall profiles. ? Result was the two doors fully opened and sat perfectly at 90 degrees to the walls, and the two magnetic strips sat waving at each other, 40 odd mm across from each other. Peter the Novellini rep in Swansea was a condescending prick and I ejected him from the customers house when he just started blaming me. So, long and short, check what you get BEFORE fitting it so you don’t get screwed over. I think you’ll be ok as you don’t need yours to meet in the middle?

Ok. Stay calm.

50/50?

A tired one lol.

Use meths or similar to clean any contamination / mould release agent off the bottom ( underside ) of the shower tray prior to installation

If water gets that far you’re screwed, tanking or not. Spend every effort on the junctions between the tray and wall, and maybe have a read of of my methods in this thread;

Only as long as the board will go back down to the floor, but not ideal as you'll break the tanked seal. Go with option 1 IMO. Youll also not be able to get screws back at the absolute bottom of the board, so maybe not a good idea at all.

Get on with it then All sounds / looks good from here. If you tank the wall up to 300mm and leave it dry, then fit the tray, you'll need to use cement to patch that wall in after. Mask the tray with insulation tape, so the trowelling doesn't scratch it. I assume you know to peel the protective layer off just enough to expose the edges / top 30mm or so and leave the rest on for the moment?

The aforementioned legislation may still kick your arse then

I wonder how much actually gets enforced? ? Did your BCO ask for ( G3 ) certification for your UVC install?

And don't buy a TS ?

Nope, it was a TS. Open pipe one with a header tank. Referred to, IIRC, as a combination tank. Good point about the inherent additional losses with that though, apples with apples

You would do yourself a favour if you read @JSHarris blog as he did exactly all of this, and then binned his TS. At the very least fit an UVC, other than that a SA ( as Jeremy fitted ) will have the lowest losses in the marketplace. About 2x the cost of the equivalent UVC though. Edit : SA = Sunamp

T'will be shitted up with the scale, and the seal will likely give up. Change the seal at the very least, but they're not expensive tbh. If you've no PV and don't use it then fit the existing one back in. New seal though, as a leak would be 'not nice'.

It should descale a little on the heat exchanger with heat / cool cycles, hence the pile of crud in the bottom that @ProDave has to scoop out. Just whip the immersion out, use a wet and dry vac with a soft end and suck the crud out. You don't need G3 unless your fiddling with safety valves etc. Needless to say, don't re-fit the same immersion Buy a new one.

OK, what exactly is the question? From the above it sounds like you've dry fitted it into place already, as you sate it's a tight fit. Are you able to lift it vertically from the 'front' edge and hold it there whilst you squeeze some goop underneath / over the floor? You can buy some clear rubber / silicone hose and tape it to the silicone gun nozzle to get into the back / far corners whilst the tray is up at an angle for eg, but that can be done away with if the tray will go fully vertical. Needless to say, you shouldn't be doing this on your own, so don't be a dick and get some help. Just someone to hold the tray from dropping whilst you squirt the goop about. If using CT1 / similar ( thicker than silicone ) then you'll need £2 coin sized blobs every 100mm to support the tray sufficiently. Anything less will not support it whilst the goop cures, for eg, if it was silicone used then the tray would just naturally drop as the silicone displaced, so the tray would not necessarily stay level but just follow the floor as it displaces too much. Prior to fitting the tray, have you tanked 300mm or so up the wall? You using tiles or panels?

Hi @dnb Why would you not broaden your options and fit a water softener? The aggressive hardness will not just affect the hot water device, but everything else there too!!

But what a collection of pants he must have.....

And there was me thinking it was causing bar fights, moaning about scaffolders and scratching your over-exposed hairy asres. I've got it so wrong......

Welcome aboard

Strange, but true ?. Doubling up on the sole plate it is for you then. ?

Nothing wrong with that, as long as that cupboard doesn't house perishables. Dont fix to the unit, fix to the wall so the cupboard doesn't turn into a drum

Assumed the question was about if the studwork was already in situ. @dpmiller ?

If I'm studding, I would lay 2 pieces of stud ( so same width as the sole plate ) and give myself something decent to fix the skirting to later down the road. Quicker and cheaper to do 2 pieces stood upright to give you the most height for fixing, and just work out what thickness of plywood ( usually 6mm ( 44mm stud x 2 = 88mm so 6mm short of the average stud depth of 92mm )) to fit in between them to keep the infill flush to the stud-work. This is normally done from waste / off cuts anyway so should have little cost impact. Remember to use DPM / DPC between the screed and the timber !

I’ve always used normal ply and regular PVA as I’m the one doing the job. If there’s any doubt, then change over to Hardie backer board and go balls-out