Nickfromwales

I mitigated against that by being involved from early on in the build eg before it was even started. A few penetrations needed to be made in the main steels, so that was all pre-planned on annotated CAD drawings to / from the TF supplier. Other key penetrations made at that time were for small bore plumbing, and a few letterboxes for the main drag of cables. Worked a treat with just a little fine-tuning here and there.

Or hose to a spare outside tap which gets you backwards to 1/2"

Chuck a hozelock fitting onto the end of the hose and that gets you to 3/4". one of these screwed into the HL fitting some barrel or other then one of these ?

Just go and buy them? A hell of a lot easier and quicker than digging all day ?!? What about a suction pump and try pulling the blockage back to you?

To be brutally honest, I would first work out what you'll spend and what you'll ACTUALLY generate and do some maths. It doesn't sounds as if this array is going to produce a huge amount of power plus it'll have degradation ad service / replacement of inverter(s) to factor in. The sums are often quite difficult with smaller arrays, and become questionable altogether if not 'south facing' with zero shading etc. What is the actual pitch / orientation and how many m2 please?

FWIW, I would avoid the larger bore series run systems ( personally ) after seeing how ducts and soil pipes would become quite problematic at junctions / crossovers ( eg a crossover would be near impossible ). Doubling up to 2x75mm ( 82mm O/D iirc ? ) to single inlet - extract point / locations are seems excellent insurance against audibility at high / boost rate. To better clarify, on the current project we have put a single outlet either side of the large living area with a single duct run to each outlet, where the alternative could be to run 2x ducts to one 'double-barrel' outlet ( all outlets were supplied with the ability to connect 2x ducts to a single outlet, with one open and one with a factory fitted, removable blanking disc which you remove and dispose of to connect 2x ducts to 1x outlet ). Putting multiple outlets with individual radial runs to each is favourable if that's is feasible, as there is a better spread of lower airflow over the whole space vs one double-barrelled outlet trying to do the lot at one point / location within a space. One person I spoke to was advised by a reputable MVHR supplier to beef up their posi-joists and go for a large bore series system. Naff results, difficult to balance ( as reducing at the last plenum slightly increses flow to the plenums upstream and vice versa ) and an uplift in cost for the posi's of over £4K !!! Plus then you have the constraints of rigid ductwork, so when your posi's are in, you cannot traverse the house perpendicular to the joists without introducing lots of cuts and joints. No ta.

@Russell griffiths, if it gets anywhere near hot enough to do bacon and eggs I'll be straight round Chuffing diet is the word DIE with a farking T on the end of it.

@Ed Davies In your earlier post, were you referring to firing electricity directly into the SA immersion, eg bypassing the SA Qontroller ( that's not a typo btw )? That is not possible, and would void the warranty. The immersion heater is directly in contact with the PCM, so as the immersion offers very concentrated heat and the PCM gets heated from 'frozen', there is a cold-start protocol embedded in the Qontroller which pulses heat into the immersion until ( I believe ) the lowest thermistor registers heat. At that point the immersion relay is allowed to go to the 'constant on' state and fire all available power into the immersion until the unit is fully saturated aka the PCM is fully molten. The reason for this cold-start feature is that the PCM would get overheated locally by the immersion if driven directly, whilst the PCM is frozen, and it would then suffer terminal damage as the PCM is intolerant of very high temps. The cold-start is only ever activated when the unit is nearly 'empty' or has been fully depleted, so not an issue when the unit is part used and then topped up ( yes, I know ). I have commissioned a number of these to date, and a good few have needed the over-heat stat ( that @Barney12 reports is still annoying him ) resetting a couple of times from the get-go. Touch wood, none have since tripped as I would soon get to know about it! I'm reasonably sure the one causing the nuisance is a quick fix, and its a shame that SA haven't been in touch to arrange a service callout / repair accordingly.

Try smelling the motor after the first couple of hundred and come back to me

I bought the Makita oil filled gearbox version of the new brushless impact and its absolutely fantastic! Not cheap at £150+ VAT naked, ( CNS power tools online is one of the cheapest ), but after stealing mine for an afternoon one of the plaster boarding gang went and bought one straight away. Chalk and cheese mate. I wouldn't dream of using my combi for punching screws in all day unless they were small and I needed torque control. The oil filled Makita is a dream, and I've got tinnitus from years of clubbing and DJ'ing and with my standard impact I have to put ear plugs in. No need with the 'quiet' one. I suggest you try one and I think you'll change your mind. Variable speed is really effective, and makes setting single / loose plasterboard screws ( without smashing though the board ) a doddle. I'm set for life, and would never go back to a normal impact TBH. The chippy on the current site has a DeWalt impact and it's like my teeth are being rattled out of my head at 50 paces. 110%. This new one puts 150mm screws in for fun with nearly no user effort. As with all tools, the correct, quality bit in the drill is paramount, otherwise you struggle. Don't skimp on spending on good impact rated bits ( standard ones just keep shattering the ends off ).

Yup. Can be sprayed now and left to do its thing so you don’t have to stay there breathing it in. No worse than WD40 either iirc.

As a gesture of goodwill, I can do the whole thing for £10,995.00

Tidy, cheers. As that's a basin the cold may also be gravity fed. Do as I said and try to force cold back up the hot, and if that doesn't work ( after a max of 30 seconds of 'reversed flow' ) then the issue may well be a cream-crackered tap. Does this match the bath taps? If so you'll need to get the cartridge out and get new replacements or you'll have to change both.

Any chance of a pic of the spout first? Just to confirm that method will work.

Ok so this is gravity fed not mains. With the hot water running, put your hand tight over the end of the spout so the palm of your hand stops the water coming out of the spout. Then turn the cold tap on ( that will be at mains pressure ) and slowly force cold back up the hot pipe. It sounds like an airlock so back off with the chainsaw just yet

On a Wren ( aka wretched ) kitchen, I chopped the base décor ends, as you say to get the extra free mileage, and added around a half dozen additional décor end details to the customers delight. When I asked Wren to accept returns for the 11 various wall and base décor ends that were surplus AFTER the extra details were executed, they got their "lead designer" ( guy was a total penis ) to ring me to tell me I hadn't followed the plan properly and they should all have been utilised. I had a 'quiet word' with him and they were picked up around a month later, as they don't let you return direct to store. It was during the 'quiet word' that I mentioned that the "lead designer" ( 11 years experience mind you...……….) had purposefully omitted the customer's washing machine from the kitchen plan. When I asked where it was going he said "in the utility room, out of the way"......to which I replied "you've been here 3 times for a survey. WHAT UTILITY ROOM ?!?" as the customer didn't have one . Dickhead. Great trick with expensive kitchens, and can be an easy way to half the cost of décor ends ( which are usually massively overpriced for what they are ). Another trick is to work out if you have any shadow gaps to make up at the ends of the runs and to slice that out of the middle of a décor end panel during the 'halving'. Then spend the saved money on beer. Cheers!

The 2 IC's at the turn point of the two garage corners, prior to the one directly for the plant, are surplus to requirement. There's no reason why they couldn't be long radius bends IMO. As @PeterW said, a bit OTT. Peter, if the underground rainwater stuff is all French, is there any point in gulley pots? I'd say just drop straight into the ground on rest bends with rodding access immediately above ground. I'd expect this to be ~£4k *max tbh, considering plant is being provided. *Edit £4k labour £7k materials is a bit ………..

What was your total costs for groundworks?

310mm wide? What are your joist centres at?

Who did you get a quote off?

To not allow the OP to fear these things, its best to admit that you turned the stored temp down too low, and that is why you ran out If you ran your setup at a higher set temp I doubt if you'd have ever had a problem as your cylinder is enough for a couple plus 2.4 children with ease, ( when fortified with an immersion to boost the stored temp as is supposed to be for 'normal use' ). This cascade setup is exactly what I would do if I had 'tinkering time' TBH, and should work really well with ST. As said you need a separate tank to raise to the lower stored temp to combat the main cylinder from not firing useful heat into it when the temp probes say the main cylinder is sitting out of the beneficial range, typically that which the ST is often producing in our less than sun-blessed country. I proposed a 2-stage setup like this for a client who wanted to go off-grid, triple cascade with a pair of TS's as sub low grade + low grade storage so nothing went to waste. These would have been boxed in and flooded with Vermiculite / other suitable full-fill insulation to retain whatever was produced. Problem is, that lot would need an outhouse / boiler room all of its own, around half the size of a domestic single car garage, so is just totally impractical in most instances. Low grade heat is of value, but you need to store shitloads of it to have any useful energy capacity, hence the mention of the 15,000 litres stored in a gable. Anything smaller would have been quite inconsequential. That said, I would likely come to my senses and fit as much PV as I could, dumping any excess into thermal storage, ( probably Sunamp as its simply the most efficient at retaining whatever you produce ), and accept that in the summer I'll need to buy near to zero electricity ( I'd 100% fit AC batteries ) and what I saved in the summer would offset ( not eradicate ) my winter energy costs. Electricity is just a WAY more universal an energy to harvest and utilise, but this equation is hugely affected by, and the decision dependant on, a lot of factors; fabric choices, quality of glazing, airtightness with heat recovery, temperature ( and type ) of the space heating emitters, total annual energy requirements and on what do the divisible %'s go towards, and so on....and on....and on. Regularly residing over 45oC will stave off most concerns, being boosted daily by PV almost wipes that out, other than winter times of course. Thermal stores are a little mis-understood and are quite universal in their chosen applications; A TS can be just like a buffer tank, and not do DHW at all, all the way through to multiple inputs / outputs and a DHW coil ( internal coil, or external pumped plate heat exchanger ) and can be heated by electricity via immersions, by gas / oil / HP via a dedicated, hydraulic input coil. The water inside a TS is primary grade water, the same as the water in your radiators, whereas the water inside an UVC is clean fresh potable ( drinking quality ) water, the water that actually comes out fo the hot outlets. DHW, therefore, in a TS is produced instantaneously, so look at a TS like a giant wet combi boiler, with heated water doing the job of the gas burner in providing the heat energy required for DHW production ). TS's can be a static body of water, simply heated by a coil or immersion, or can be constantly circulating through the boiler and the central heating emitters as one huge unified body of water. In other mixed water solutions the heating circuit(s) could all be taken separately from internal coil(s) eg to keep glycol in an ASHP / GSHP install to a minimum volume by hydraulically separating the inputs and outputs, plus the heat inputs can also be introduced via a dedicated coil / coils say to separate ST from a gravity boiler system and so on. When you start mixing heat sources and outputs things get quite flavourful with regards to controls, isolation and general associated complexity, so choose well ( particularly if you are going to ask a 'plumber' to come up with a way to get this to all harmonise.

You'll only get flak if your still grouting in 2020 ;).

Thats the killer with multiple heat inputs. Need a lot of thought and timed control to maximise on each discipline. Just done one with a log gasification boiler, and not everyone realises they're eligible for RHI, vs a wood-burning stove with back boiler which is not eligible. Guys getting £12k back over 7 years. Bingo. The above collection of 'technologies' would indeed be very expensive to have properly designed and installed, so you do need to look closely at how much capital investment you would need / can afford, and the RoI. For me, I'd only recommend ST for somebody with a swimming pool. Right amount of energy at the right grade, at the right times of the year.

I'm a bad person ✌️?

I dont have the figures to hand as that was a quote I passed on, but I could get them with little difficulty if you want?