Nickfromwales

Spray foam around the groups of pipe that you now cannot lag Saw it all square after and rejoice in not having to move the b’stards ?

Yes. No problem at all. The DC cables need terminating and anyone working there made aware that they could be live on a sunny day. If you connect optimisers but not the inverter then it won’t be a problem as the optimisers won’t let voltage through iirc.

Yes, correct, and the terminology is "room sealed" ( R/S ) type appliance

Making a hole in the fabric is nothing to worry about, as long as the person making it is good at their job Sealing a duct in first, with a slightly larger diameter than the flue, is what I do. Then you can tape from the internal bore of the duct to the airtight layer far more effectively. The flue then simply gets pushed through ( with an equal gap all around between it and the duct ) and intumescent foam injected all round to form a mechanical and airtight fix. When cured, cut the foam back half inch either side and finish the seal with CT1 / similar to protect the foam from insect / rodent attack. I turned @vivienz‘s airtight layer into Swiss cheese to get various services in / out, and after I put that right it got an AT test result of 0.25ach. ? Its not the size of the dog in the fight, it’s the size of the fight in the dog

It’s just binary, on or off. A TRV operates proportionally so offers smoother heating curves. I’ve done one house as you’re proposing, but tbh I wouldn’t do another like that as the room is hostage to the hysteresis of the stat. That’s fine for a centrally mounted room stat with a decent reference of the ambient, but not so great for a room with say 3 outside walls and big windows etc where a finer degree of control ( TRV ) would perform better. I don’t have links, but a bit of searching on here will dig up info on what others have used. Heatmiser gets a few mentions, but Honeywell, Nest and Hive etc seem quite robust solutions, just I’m not familiar with them as I’m mostly now servicing passive ( ish ) clientele on single central stats.

Ok, I’ll await the colour and get back to you by pm.

Inside is a no-brainer eg within the heated envelope, but you're losing only a few quid per annum to lose that tbh so not a game-changer. In even a crap garage you'll not have any serious frost risk beyond normal pipe insulation etc plus the frost stat. Only killer with it that far out is the delay getting DHW from the cold start of the combi, up to temp, through the pipe runs and to the taps. That will be a serious delay, especially at the basin taps where there is low flow.

My guy is ringing me back today ( if he gets the info ) to confirm if RAL 7016 is available with the cheaper door. To save a couple more quid, you can have the inside white, but there's not much in it tbh. He would probably only do supply and fit if coming a distance as he'd be losing a sale of a door otherwise ( prob 10-15% uplift ), but even though I could have sourced my own front door I still let him supply and fit for me as I didn't want to remove all the meat off the bone for him. This is of course a second choice, and if you can source online and get a local chippy in, then this is a one day, one visit job at most for any decent fitter.

It would be a frame / door combo if you went for composite ( so no maintenance / painting ) but you could keep the lining and replace just the door. Which would you prefer? A composite door plus frame wont be cheap but the annoyance of the frame rotting out with the cost of a new door would be a pita. Straight door change would be a job for a local chippy, but my guy would come out and do the door if it was a new / replacement. Only problem with the RAL colour is IIRC its not available on the cheaper uPVC doors. You can go for a cheaper door / frame combo in uPVC if you're happy with anthracite not the true RAL? Example I can ask for a ball-park figure if you want the composite? Any need to go 'mad'? eg higher security with the composite.

In @MarkA‘s were using similar for a lot of stuff, and have agreed to run switch / live wires from every 230v point of switching back to a dim-rail loaded project box so all the z-wave / other items don’t have to be squeezed into the 47mm backboxes. Is home automation on the menu? Why z-wave? There are a lot of WiFi based plug n play heating / DHW control systems out there which require next to no complex wiring / controls / design / operation etc straight out of the box.

My PVC guy may travel up. Supply and fit and a new composite door if you like? Just need some measurements. He’s just done my front door. ? Composite is more expensive but has much better security and is available in all sorts of colours. Is that black or charcoal ?

On bigger radiators you'll need to balance well, but yes, should be fine reducing at the radiator. I've done it a bunch of times as it does look a lot neater. Why go with the grief of the manifold? Hepworth stuff is bombproof, so you could just plumb generically ( series, descending in size 22 > 15 ) with tees at each rad. Then for zoning go for an open-source TRV system with a central hub + wifi.?

Too late. ?

I've lost a lot of weight since then I'll have you know. Peer pressure from my son who now has me in his mobile as 'captain big tits'...…. ?

I know not of these things...….?

Unless your DHW demand is super high, I would not even think about using a thermal store. I only use a TS in conjunction with gas / oil for situations where the client asks for 3 - 4 showers to be running simultaneously. With that kind of setup, sized correctly, you can get constant, instant high-flow DHW. The question should be, in a well insulated airtight build, why bother with the boiler at all? Go for E10 and heat with electricity for a cheap and near zero maintenance option

I'm a married man...….I'll take what I can get ?

I don't actually own a tile cutter, I just got booted off Tinder and ended up here...…..

You stay out of this ok, I think ive pulled

Along with a pregnancy test ?!?

A grand for a cutter that only does 600mm? There is no god...…….. If that doesn't turn up let me know. I'll lend you my 1200mm Rubi that @PeterW borrowed. ? Can fortify that with a Sigma 900mm scribe n snap too ( just bought one as my Rubi started to piss me off ). Deposit is a kidney or other similarly important organ. I'm not fussy, but no appendix / similar.

Wet or dry cutter? What do you actually need?

Chill Winston.... Is there a link to what you bought?

In a nutshell, yes Ask your neighbours and you may get a different reaction ? I doubt you realise quite HOW expensive / obtrusive that kind of installation would actually be..... A WBS is not eligible for RHI so its just a "thing of beauty" which occasionally heats a bit of water. Unless you have a serious sized, part year round redundant TS then forget gleaning heat and just have a WBS that heats the room its in / immediate surroundings and save a shit-load of cash. You'll need a BIG galvanised header tank and then to get that plumbed in through the house to the stove, then install the TS with multiple coils etc and on and on. If the heart really wants it, it'll get it, but the head will likely disagree, along with the wallet

Get some LayFlat JG or Hepworth and it’s nowhere near as a pita as the generic push fit stuff is. I’ve just put about 400m of 15mm through a 2-storey TF and it was a doddle ( with a pair of helping hands ). The flow rate with 10mm is very low, and you’ll notice a house piped with a mix of 10 & 15 will show just how different they are. If you’re going 22mm backbone to 10mm legs throughout then you’ll be fine, but you should choose one discipline and stick to it. Hepworth ( aka Hep2O ) also uses wafer thin stainless inserts so the internal bore isn’t compromised. The JG ones are terrible by comparison and choke the pipe at every joint / junction ?