Nickfromwales

6mm minimum screwed at 100mm centres. If it’s a big room then you may also want to use a 2mm notched trowel and bed the ply down into neat PVA. 23 years on, and I’ve not lost a patient yet. Add thickness to the ply if it makes sense eg to help marry the tray / floor junction, but 6mm will do it no probs. ?

I think I agree with @ProDave, in that it should just pull back. Even though it will distort slightly, you can simply feed the screen in at the top where it isn't distorted, and then push it in as you work downwards to get the whole screen into the profile.

D section. Smaller size if poss but ripped down to make long bow shaped infills.

Stick with the thicker slab, and save the worry. The additional losses with the Poitier insulation may translate into a few quid per year of wasted energy, but to have cracks in your polished floor will be irreparable or cost more than 10 years worth of losses to have put right professionally. The losses will be divided by 3 on average also as you’re using an ASHP to provide the heat energy, which is a multiplier. Go for E10 if possible and heat the slab in those off-peak windows and then it’ll be cheaper again to run. Have the stat set to do setback temps during the peak rate times, so it runs at a lower temp whilst peak rate is available further reducing losses. You can squeeze a few more drops of efficiency out by a bit of thoughtful use, and that’ll offset the higher losses, but remember that you’re not going to be all that much better off in reality adding just another 25mm of insulation If we were taking about adding another 50-75mm then I’d perhaps say you should reconsider.

A bit harsh ? As you said a bit further on, just pack the middle with something non-ferrous ( steel washers vs alu might have an electrolytic action? ), mask the wall and the channels, pump the void full of clear CT1, square off with a plastic scraper, de-mask and then pvc D-section both sides to suit. Not pretty, but 800 times better than whothefeckever suggested cutting a slot into the tiles ??????

It'll require some effort, but is perfectly do-able

Yes, that would be fine. The pipe runs from the lower to the upper would ideally need insulation on them where they no longer service the area they are meant for, so a dedicated pipe way would be necessary to accommodate the 16mm pipe, plus a 9mm wall insulation, so 34mm total diameter per run. Each pipe run, when turning 90o backto horizontal at the upper slab level, would need to be in the lowest part of the screed ideally, so as not to interfere with the upper pipe runs. You just get everything done in anticipation of the pour, like sealing up pipe ways with expanding foam / insulation / sand cement patching mix or whatever it takes to keep the upper pour exactly where it is meant to stay. If it means one manifold and it just requires a bit of tenacity, I think it's worth striving to achieve.

The UFH pipes can simply rise to the upper manifold location, from the lower floor section, therefore allowing air to be vented at the highest point ( the vent on the manifold ). You couldn't have the manifold on the lower section and pipe uphill from it for eg as the air ( accumulative gasses ) would be trapped there. Absolutely no reason not to go for the single manifold TBH, just need an inventive and competent plumber / installer to get stuck in. Go with whichever package / provider you feel comfortable with, but explain what you want, make clear your expectations, and come back here to sense check anything that your told and maybe didn't fully understand.

This is @Onoff we’re talking about here. That would be quick and simple, so clearly won’t be an option ?

OP is asking about minimum height / BRegs etc. I've retro-fitted a load of kitchens where the window was lower than the worktop, but this is a new construction so BRegs need observing ( wherever applicable ).

Hi and welcome to the forum. The manufacturers instructions should give you the correct guidelines, and they will need to be ( ahem ) adhered to to ensure you have a warranty against product failure. If the boarding is good enough, usually the mesh will be more than suffice and will be better than the tape anyway, but its the MI's that count so go read up on those first .

Good old Viz..... A lot of great inventions born from there. Some thoughts now, as to how the bog-roll holder will work..... Maybe have them coming down and sideways rather than down and out towards you? That would naturally arrest the avalanche, and you simply slide a fresh round out as necessary. A buildhub first, "The ACME magazine-fed arse wipe dispenser." 10/10.

As a belt n braces fix, use WD40 as the lube to get the adaptor into the pan connector, and as soon as it's in, the WD will be no longer and leave the rubber to grip like Grippy McGripface from Griptown Tennessee.

Yup. That's 100 times better than going in slack and no means of centralising the internal 'bores'. "PROCEED!"

They don't make 'em like they used to

Give it a few days and you’ll be like Billy Elliot My shoulders are hurting just looking at the pictures ?

Will the 80 x 110 Geberit adaptor fit into the ( lubed-up first ) bent pan connector? That is a slack junction otherwise and not something I’d do unless there was ABSOLUTELY no other choice.

Not a favoured solution tbh. Are you saying push a bent pan connector into the existing soil where it exits the wall, leaving the open mouth of the bent pan connector to accept the Geberit bent connector? 3 bottles of Fursty Ferret in btw. ? Baby steps ok

Yup. You can cut the black Gebetit 90o bend to any length as long as it still seats fully into the 90mm x 110mm adaptor. ? Robust and in line with the frame MI’s.

You can’t with a framed WC. You need the black long pan connector @Onoff shows which gets you clear of the wall and out to the pan outlet. With a bent pan connector you’d finish flush ( lol ) to the wall but also too high as you’d be resting on the metal bar of the frame that the Geberit black bit clips to.

Well......it’ll keep the rain off your head at the very worst Tres bien, Rodney. ?

Don’t the split units require an external fan unit? Plus, my above solution doesn’t have the bulky office-looking surface mounted unit cluttering up the wall

Could do with a nice mosaic skirting board in there..........

+1. I'd buy one of these instead and sling the plastic bolts in the bin.

That's the ESBE valve I have to fit if using a SA for pre-heat to a WB combi, so I'm aware of them, just the thought never crossed my mind to use one there to max out for the duct coolers. Noted, and appreciated, thanks.