Nickfromwales

Yup. Looks like you fitted the whole valve too far back. Those o rings grip the chrome cylinders which protrude from the valve, which makes the plate a friction fit usually.

Apparently that is a good thing. ?

Up the sides and across the top of the plate, with a bit of clear CT1 and NOT across the bottom. The spindles should have thin rubber o rings on them.

Or they’re distracting us whilst they plot their revenge.......?

A cheque for £50 and a 1st prize BH ribbon is winging its way to you in the post

.....then simply use a single part self leveling compound to get it flat, uniform and level, and you're sorted. Fully bonding all of the floor layers during construction will be of paramount importance, especially where the gym equipment will reside. That said, I would boost the flooring to 2 layers of 22mm OSB3 for the few quid extra expense. .....30mm insulated plasterboards so you lose the cold bridging of the rafters. Heat rises, so pay the most attention there. Use foil tape to seal the 100's to the rafters and same to seal the insulated roof structure to the top of the internal vertical walls, immediately prior to boarding the walls. Rubber roof membrane or GRP, but rubber is the quietest in the rain. Nicer for an office environment / phone calls etc IMO. Plenty good enough for this. Again, you could use a 30mm insulated PB on the internal, but if this is a gym and office you may be better off insulating externally with just 75mm, which should be plenty, and paying a plasterer to fully wet coat the interior so you can screw shelving / equipment to the internal walls without them caving in. Thermal blocks are shite for any kind of fixing, so keep that in mind if you have anything serious to fix to the walls. Roof, as above, walls good enough to not invest more IMHO. If nothing discernible being affixed internally, then 30mm insulated PB to the interior would further improve things.

Fcuk me! Another week of 2021 bites the dust. Weeks are going by like days atm. Shizer!!!

It's a little bit early to be drinking, no? ?

I’ve put each of my 4 kids rooms ( well every room except the kitchen and utility ) on radial circuits and their own RCBO’s. Lighting on their own circuits and smokes on their own circuits. CAT6 PoE switch is on its own radial, which also services hall / landing / cleaning / air wick sockets, and at a set time I can just drop the LAN and WiFi off to everything other than the downstairs TVs / set top boxes etc, and any time my kids offer up a bit of ‘confrontation’ the mere threat of my finger waving over the little test button on the RCBO makes the kids concentrate much more intensely on what I’m saying. I call it Parental Override. Works like a dream. I’ve hooked up with a sparky I met about 7 years ago ( @Bitpipe used him ) and he’s been giving me some ideas. Current projects will now be getting 20a rings instead of the 20a radials that I’ve been using previously. Made a lot more sense once the pros snd cons of both were discussed. 2 heads better than one and all that jazz.

@MP1 You simply bond the PIR ( you could just use 200mm of much cheaper EPS if you have the depth? Not much in it performance wise tbh ) to the slab with foam, weight them down whilst curing, and then you don't need joists. The 2 layers ( lay in opposite directions per layer with staggered joints eg not just overlaid ) will give you a rock solid floor with zero bounce, and zero cold bridging through the joists. Winner winner, chicken dinner. You need to shutter the slab in a timber shoebox so you can get the slab flat and level so there are no undulations to transfer through the uppers layers, ( that's where attention to detail is very important, but you're laying a foundation anyway so no extra expense other than time / eye for detail ) and you're good to go. For DPM, just put a sacrificial 25mm layer of EPS on the slab, then put your DPM atop that ( will prevent any puncturing ) and then put whatever insulation you want atop that. so 175mm PIR and 25mm EPS would be the 200mm sandwich. 200mm should be doable as that will allow a bit of a rain splash zone at the bottom of the external walls. If you can get 150mm or 200mm of insulation in, that would be the best outcome, but if the floor is not heated, then you could probably get away with 25mm EPS and 120mm PIR as that will still be quite a high spec for what it is. What are your plans for the walls and roof? Roof detail is of importance too. MVHR? I wouldn't bother tbh, as how far do you really want to go? Trickle vents in the windows and doors and a regular extractor in the shower will suffice in the real world. You will end up getting dizzy balancing between A2A heating and cooling plus mechanical ventilation. Plus you cant really have a single room MVHR system and a regular extractor sharing the same envelope in such close quarters as there will be a conflict when both are running simultaneously. A2A climate control, floor insulation to the max and save on the screed. A2A units will provide a degree of air quality and humidity / CO2 control when used in unison with manually set trickle vents. The trickle vent in the bathroom will typically need closing whilst using the steam room so the warm air from the office / bathroom spaces gets pulled into the bathroom vs cold air from outside, which will help with managing the damp / humidity in the bathroom. That will need a beefy extractor too, as the steam room will be a condensation bomb. Most steam units come with an integral fan which you duct to atmosphere, but I would use that, plus a secondary unit set to control humidity as well as 'stink removal'. I would look at the ICON range as they have shutters for when the fan is not in use, very handy to prevent backdraught without an annoying sprung 'flap'.

I wouldn't cross the road to piss over Wren. Showroom is drop dead gorgeous, killer salespeople, "buy now or your children and the planet will die before you get back in your car".....etc......and then nothing after you have left and have paid, other than two fingers when the order all arrives smashed to bits by an over-worked angry delivery driver and huge turn-around times to get replacements 'when they can fit you in'. I lost a lot of money on 2 of their installs, when replacement panels and cabinets etc kept on getting redelivered by the same angry driver in the same state. The builder had to threaten the driver with a slap around the face due to just how badly he was treating the clients order whilst getting it out of the wagon and lobbed onto the pavement. 7 damaged deliveries of key decor panels which halted the whole install, and when the client went to the showroom to protest the showroom manager took over and got the transport manager to deliver the new white gloss decor ends, and proudly opened it up, removing all the 34 layers of bubble-wrap, to reveal the new hand delivered panel, damage free, in fcuking grey.

Apparently so if you managed to not waste any in that gap

Oh, and beef up the timber work for that WC frame. That ain't enough beef there me ol' china mug Or ban any olympic pie-eaters from that bathroom........

If its running relatively low flow temp, and its tiles, they should heat up and cool down at pretty much the same rate, so the only thing I would be doing here is leaving a 6mm-8mm gap all around the perimeters and making sure they are NOT grouted. Pump them full of a dirt cheap silicone to prevent inadvertently filling them up while grouting the main areas. Priming and making sure the screed is free from dust / other contamination will be crucial. If your bum-hole is wobbling, put a mat down.

150m split over different rooms?

Nope. As long as you detail a bit of decent airtightnss and as much insulation as you can get, that is a winner. Electric towel rad and UTH for the bathroom and bingo. The cost of insulation vs screed is a no brainer. If you can get 150mm-200mm of PIR and then another 36mm of deck board atop that, you wont need any screed. In screed heater wire

Ah, apologies. You did not mention you already own the boiler Option 3 seems the sensible option if not fully permanent.

Just fit an external boiler which needs nothing and will stand off the external wall?

Nothing wrong with that, but if BRegs were eye-balling this they'd want robust access for rodding / maintenance where the adverse changes in direction were. As long as the first invert at 1000mm turns to horizontal, an air bereak will occur and there is still no need for a stub-stack or 110mm air admittance valve. Basin anti-vac will suffice.

OK, you'll need to find an alternative and then post up a technical drawing from the manufacturer with the new pipe centres / entries / exits etc and we can offer up some solutions.

@Patrick has now gone to remove all the sharp objects from his house......

It's deffo a box of Liquorice Allsorts for sure. The one with the green roof ( looks like oxidised copper ) is a bit 'out there' too, but completely agree it's a very interesting site. You shouldn't really be looking at building in a sweet shop if you can't accept being the next random jar on the shelf.

Yup, you need a very thin membrane atop the insulation to prevent the screed touching it. I've lost count of how many I've done without the membrane, and no real world issues have arisen AFAIK.

Apologies. The above UVC would not be an instantaneous heater, it would store hot water. It would delivery high grade DHW instantly. UVC + no brainer. Or, if this is adjacent to the house, tap into the DHW from the house and pipe it out there. The steam cabinet will only accept heated water, unless you can find one that utilises an electric shower ( which would be a bag of shit ) plus you'll still need another multipoint ( instant water heater ) for the basin. Don't forget with all these instant water heaters, you buy in at 12-15kW so will need a whopper of a supply cable back to the meter / DB1 and then a DB2 at the annex to take the various loads. 3kW to the wash hand basin would also be the norm. The UVC will service both the shower and the basin, and will only need a 13a fused spur to connect to the electricity supply. The in-screed heater wire(s) will also run off a 13a fused spur, same with UTH if you tile and heat the bathroom floor. I would insulate the life out of the floor in the office area and lay an LVT over 2x layers of 18mm T&G OSB atop the insulation. That will mean the floor will never feel cold, and the air to air air-con / heating will warm the place with ease, and very quickly too vs in screed wire which will take time to bring the room up to temp. Heating via the ASHP will also reduce the running costs significantly and you can operate them via an app or timer to simply bring the room up to temp 30 mins before use. You'll also save the cost of screed. Forget a boiler, waaaay overkill, and annual inspections will be required increasing ongoing costs. KISS.

Hi. Which ICF system have you used? I'm on 2 different ICF projects where moisture at the ICF / slab junction is recurring. It's because the rain screen on the outside of the ICF has not been applied yet, therefore the rain comes under at the DPC ( capillary action, plus the DPC acts like a tray which harvests and retains the rainwater ) and makes the slab look 'damp' at the edges. This is to no real detriment at this time, and I think your architect is completely right. Is the slab TOC ( top of concrete ) your FFL ( finished floor level ) or are you to have a membrane and a screed atop the slab? The above instances I refer to are passive raft foundations where the TOC is FFL less floor coverings. Bottom line is that until you render / other outside to form a rain screen to ground, you will gt that problem. It will be hugely reduced at that point and the build will typically cope from there on with whatever moisture fluctuations occur. Don't waste your money on liquid membranes etc for the whole floor, but maybe just applying at the internal corner at the periphery will settle your mind. Personally I think you're worrying about nothing, but we'd need to see sectional drawings of the structure and the topology of the site to give any further quality information to you. It seems strange however, as normally the slab would be on insulation and a damp membrane already, if there is UFH and a ( heated ) screed to go atop? If the subfloor is to "end up as a wet slab vs a dry slab" then I would be concerned about the cold bridging more than the damp!! If you can post some sectional drawings that would help.