Nickfromwales

Yup. And if either the head or the spray need to be tamed, which I don’t think will be necessary, you can just fit a suitable 3rd party flow restrictor. Link

@Vijay The person you spoke to is talking out of their arse. That valve will deffo control flow. I’ll put money on it.

https://www.labc.co.uk/sites/default/files/labcpd0715_techg_firefoam_0.pdf Fire foam is combustible

Arresting the spread of fire from open flames is the consideration here. If it were a multi storey dwelling or adverse scenario requiring fire intervention then your BCO would have already stated so. Have you actually asked your BCO ? Our opinions here are worthless btw. That person is signing your build off not any of us If you don’t have any mandatory stipulation(s) then just consider risk vs mitigation, and focus on the salvage of the fabric of the property, eg if a fire started there.Buying a FR plasterboard is £10 more than a regular one. Why skimp?!? Fill gaps with intumescent acrylic caulk not FR foam as that has far better integrity. FR foam is for very small gaps only. On every single one of my full M&E installations, early prevention ( detection and intervention ) via deployment of optical, ionisation, multi-sensor and heat detectors in every habitable and plant space is standard practice. Each type of detector is selected to suit the space. Finding a fire before it’s become involved is the number one focus of the owner, and prevention of the spread of flames and cold smoke is the focus for means of egress and escape, eg the preservation of those routes of escape ( for 30 or 60 mins whichever is applicable ). Talk to your BCO.

Tundish needs to be with the UVC for G3 compliance. Control group within 500mm of the UVC. It’s all in the MI’s of the UVC so do you have a copy?

The copper fitting above the tundish appears to be a 22x22x15 centre tee, taking another output. That’s probably the 6bar PRedV off the control group, but we need a LOT more pics and info before you have a pop at this guy. Nowhere near enough info to interject atm sorry. Water main by electricity supply is perfectly fine. No issues there. If this is a new UVC install, then we need to know if every mixer tap / mixer shower / bath mixer etc, basically anything monoblock receiving hot and cold into the same body, has been supplied with a balanced cold feed from the control group. Lots to ask and see before answering any further.

Either/or most prob, but it may have a middle position doing 50/50. Would you really need both on at the same time ? Starting to think a digital mixer is your only choice here. Deeper pockets will get you this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kohler-K-2971-KS-NA-HiFlow-Rite-Temp-Pressure-Balancing-Valve-one-size-/174780823037?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 You’ll also need this; https://www.homeloft.uk/products/kohler-kt53214cp-refinia-valve-trim-with-pushbutton-diverter-valve-not-included-polished-chrome Nice single lever, integral user set high temp ( anti scald ) arrest, and a simple push button for diverting from head to hose. Thats as good as it gets me thinks. You’ll need to sniff out a UK supplier to get accurate prices, but Kohler is very good stuff, up there with HansGrohe and spares and after sales will be ongoing. You can buy a service / overhaul kit now and be right for 15-20 years of trouble free motoring. Good luck. Sounds like you need it. ?

This might tick the boxes. Link Large simple single lever, multi function plus a reasonably useable driver for switching between hose and head. That will probably be a 2 click flow rate, medium and fast ( as you pull the lever out it will click into position one then you keep pulling for position two ). You’d have to confirm that, but that is a signature setup for the higher end manufacturers. Swing left to right for temp. Send this to a complimenting diverter valve for head / hose. Downside is, you’d have to feed the hot side via a TMV as I don’t think these are thermostatic. Upside is, zero risk of accidental scalding as you will have already capped the max hot temp input eg an inadvertent move of the lever to the hot side would not give hotter than say 38oC ( or whatever you set the TMV to ). Upside 2, this is bombproof and future proof.

Ah yes, Hudson sorry. Long day(s). They look the same as a Bristan I fitted so brain just hit autopilot as it does occasionally ?

If this needs to be fit for purpose then this could be a plan. Set this concealed into the wall. Infirm friendly and thermostatic with good flow control. Then pipe in the wall to one of these types of one in two out stand alone diverter valves ( choose one that matches the shower valve as best as possible ) and then pipe from the two outlets of that to the head and the handset. That’s your lot mate. After that, proper disability recognised units are just single output to a hose and spray for assisted bathing eg no dual setup.

Yup. That’s reasonably easy to turn. @Onoff, can you provide some feedback as to how much effort the valve needs to turn the two flow valves plz? The centre control is temp so basically set n forget.

Not on a boiler > single loop UFH setup. Deffo not a healthy arrangement for the boiler. The manufacturers installation guides often state that short cycling should be mitigated against by design. You need a 50L buffer in series with the flow, between the zone valve and the UFH manifold, and a 22mm gate valve ( NOT a bypass valve ) fitted across the flow and return connections where they supply the manifold. I use the 50L version and works a treat. These are very well insulated and wall mounted. Just connect the boiler flow ( after the ZV ) to one upper tapping, and and then UFH flow to the diagonally opposite lower tapping. Blank the two other tappings off. That will give you sufficient energy buffering to not have the boiler ever running under duress.

Ok. It’s only a SEQUENTIAL valve that gives you cold flow at 100% which you then keep rotating to get the heat through until happy and showering. The majority of other thermostatic mixers will have a lever valve which pulls towards you for 0-100% flow rates, and swings left to right for temp control. Vado is excellent stuff for the money btw. I’ve fitted loads of the stuff and never had a single issue. The Bristan valve that @onoff linked and used is very good for the money, and easy to use. Great flow rates etc. Heap enough to buy one for spares. Same tor the WC seats, just buy 2 for spares and get on with your life

Yup. These folks pay ‘staff’ to manage the stuff they can’t be bothered with, like sucking up crap from the pool bottom. This guy would regularly be using the pool in the arse end of the summer through to September and beyond. Big party throwers, and lots of creams laying around to ‘cure various issues with the nether regions’s’ ??

If you can only have the UFH on when the rads are on, it would help massively. If not, you’ll need a buffer tank for sure.

I put two gas boilers in for an outside pool ( uncovered!!! ) and the guy said he would just “live with the £5-6k gas bill p/a………..” That was about 6/7 years ago. I strongly advised 15kW of ST on the roof ( 2x 7.5kW system split E&W ) but he said he would think about it but wasn’t overly bothered. Said gas was just a button push so a simple solution. Wtf.

Yup. Quite easy to implement. A 50L energy buffer in-line with flow might be advantageous, dependant on the minimum loads that the house may call for vs the manufacturers installation guide.

Pretty healthy rate ?

Do you plan to routinely run the single UFH loop off the boiler, independently?

Simple. You just add another small manifold, run individual hot returns ( HRC ) pipes back for each outlet, and connect the hot return pump to the manifold. I do this on nearly every job. Series plumbing will see a lot of waste of potential and much larger bore primary pipework, plus you would then have to have the HRC on all the time ( in lie with occupancy / demand ) or serving all of the house. With radial hot and HRC you can pick and choose as to where to implement HRC. I run a 15mm hot and a 10mm HRC together in one piece of 25mm wall pipe insulation to minimise losses. Virtually nothing escapes from those runs in terms of heat loss. You just split those immediately as they arrive at the plant room and then insulate them separately to the manifold. Box clever and take the HRC outlets from the end of the hot manifold and then the entire manifold gets 'pre-heated' thus reducing wait times on the non HRC outlets.

I regularly run 15mm hep2o across new builds, many runs often in excess of 15-20m, and showers work perfectly well, very well in fact. That's running to large rainfall heads etc so I wouldn't panic about running 15mm Hepworth to baths and showers. I've many many live installs under my belt and all customers super happy with the flow rates. I always run all the hot and cold supply in a radial arrangement from large bore primary feeds, 22mm or even 28mm at the hot and cold manifolds depending on system spec etc, so the results from series plumbing would be worse if you were considering that?

Yup. 100% spot on solution, and the only sensible one for this situation. You could fit a large split ASHP ( high temp ) here, and then get up around 80oC, but it would be bulky and very noisy. Heating would simply be toggled in / out between the TS or the ASHP by a diverter valve which changes state with the temp of the store. Pretty easy to achieve.

I’m trying to work out what exactly are the required number of cuts?

I had exactly the same issue(s) with a Worcester Bosch boiler serviced via a British Gas ‘insurance plan’. BG came out, 5 engineers over 4 visits, fault not cured, and basically rebuilt the boiler in situ from bottom to top. Left the box of spares in the utility room as a trophy, to demonstrate how they’d done “everything possible” and they then left with the client having no heating or DHW. Told him he needed a new boiler and said they’d post a quote. I went there, and 45 mins later I had the boiler working perfectly. Client was sooooo pissed off he rang the area manager ( the 5th chap you accompanied the final service engineer ) and gave the phone to me. The guy asked me what I did to fix it and I told him to keep guessing. So fed up of visiting customers ( pensioners mainly ) who have been a victim of this tactic from BG. I had to threaten them as a company to come and rectify a list of faults, one which was lethal, and gave them an hour to respond before I called the GSR to report them. After a load of condescending threatening waffle, 40 mins or so later 2 BG vans materialised. They told these pensioners that they needed new controls and the £5k glow worm boiler ( £600 in my plumbers merchant btw ) they just fitted ( in a day ) had to be left off indefinitely. I was contacted by the electrical firm that BG eventually appointed to try and fix it, 3 days after leaving an immediately unsafe installation and an 82 & 83 year old without heating or hot water, and I couldn’t believe how bad a job they’d done. All they had to do was wire a modern system boiler to a standard S plan system. Ffs. All these “heating engineers” these days are just plug n play laptop jockeys who cannot think outside the box. Get them back into proper apprenticeships!!!!

That means the diverter valve is not parking in the fully closed position. Most diverters park in the heating position, and then move to DHW position swapping duties 100%. The diverters park in the heating position to do pump overrun, the heat dump cycle after each burner ignition event. Yours is not getting 100% of the way closed aka diverted, therefore you have the heat leak to the rads. I have to be honest, you need to remove this and get a full refund. Go grab yourself a Vaillant and get on with your life. Intergas and Veissmann do some strange choppy-changy is it a system boiler or is it now a combi nonsense and I’m not a fan at all. You’ve done the polite customer to the extreme, now you just need to contact them in their UK offices and ask for the unit to be removed and draw a line under it. Can you imagine sorting this and then going to the same bunch of clueless halfwits for the next problem ?!? Time to call it a day I think, before winter when you really need it to work reliably.