Nickfromwales

It will be “more solid” and that may be all the justification that you need Go forth and glue, and report back here with your conclusion please

Agreed, but, the OP has already got a light floating floor, so bonding down onto that is not going to give the same solid feel as you’d get when bonding to a fixed substrate or screed etc, so the question has to be; will there be any added value here in spending money bonding this down? The bamboo is already a very dense material so will sound solid underfoot regardless imo.

You’ll be preparing for a long time…. Keep the questions coming, you have my curiosity!! Maybe exchange “off grid” for “minimal grid dependency”?

Why are you bonding it down?

A second Willis heater yes. The reason I always fit 2 of these is for a) redundancy, and b) to be able to push a lot more heat energy into the slab aka storage heater in any available ( sometimes short ) pocket of cheap rate electricity. Plus they’re cheaper than shoplifting, so, if the WH is your sole means of CH, why would you not install such a cheap and simple fail-safe? You could even set another pair of these up, with the stat temp maxed out and the ‘charge’ pump speed set slow, to fully recharge your SA in sub 2 hours for when you need DHW under duress eg guest occupancy etc or showers back to back. Would need a TMV to not breach SA’s curious warranty criteria, but doable.

Why can your ground floor stud walls be built atop a course of engineering bricks? They can then stay, and the screed gets poured / laid around them. What am I missing re what the stud walls will sit on?

No more red for you tonight lol. Don Juan

“And you are no longer my fellow DJ!!!”

? ??

I pay my IT guy £360 for a day including fuel / expenses etc. He makes off all RJ45’s / labels everything up, mounts and sets up the AP’s and runs through all the testing point to point. I see value in that at that price and nowhere near London I’d say your electrician is probably giving you a reasonable price….not cheap / not expensive IMO.

You’d only have the slightest of concern IF the screws were put in and taken back out again, and even then the issue would be almost inconsequential afaic. You can relax good sir

Probably just a few posts on here tbh. How handy are you? Do you need to make any RJ45 plugs off etc?

Unless you have flat concrete tiles or slates you’re stuck with on roof anyways. If you have either then you may want to make the installation look ‘tres bien’ by integrating in roof, but you’ll then have the cost of the roofer doing all the cuts plus the iffy job of getting the flashing to adhere to the weathered tiles / slates. Cost effective route is to go on roof, just don’t forget the edge protectors to stop birds nesting under them.

Agreed, sorry. The cloud key is for access by 3rd party and my IT guy did indeed set everything up on his laptop. I offer all my clients the remote access and 3rd party ‘maintenance by invite’ as most of the installs are complex ( with certain AP’s dedicated to fixed devices such as Ring video doorbell or Ring cameras / others for general use etc ) and we’ve always got to fiddle about retrospectively to fine tune things. For the cost of a CK2 it’s just far more seamless for me tbh, as all my projects are a fair distance from my home and it’s just easier to manage these sites that way. The cost of one call out is more than the cost of the CK2 so I just bite the billet and fit these.

After-sales service, tech support and repair? Panasonic are too well priced and recognised to convince me to go elsewhere. Underwhelmed ( greatly ) by Mitsubishi and Samsung customer and tech support. Guys at Panasonic were a breath of fresh air, and conversant with cooling too.

Too much maths here…… Just enjoy the hot water and have a beer. If you have PV it’ll run practically for free all summer. Discount that and you’re spending very little for what I think is a super luxury addition. Waiting for hot water annoys me, and mine is from a combi 3m away from each basin! Counting to 5 is 5 seconds too long.

How much do you spend per year on recreation, alcohol, hobbies etc? It’s not about cost, it’s about value. If you really value instant hand washing etc, and I fit hot returns on nearly every clients new build, then just pay and move onto something else. This will use energy, either way it gets used, and you’re only arguing over the difference in the cost of different methods of execution, so less than £50 per year most likely The system costs are significant so focus on that, plus also ensure, as I do, that the HRC pipes are ridiculously well insulated to reduce losses. I put the 15mm flow and the 10mm return inside the same piece of 25mm wall x 22mm internal pipe insulation. Completely cold to the touch with 50oC water circulating inside.

Hi. Use a screwdriver to remove the white dust cap and then take another pic. Should then look like this under the dust cap That internal white plastic insert gets removed and disposed of when 2nd fix occurs. It’s primary use is to create a X bridge connecting cold in > bottom outlet and hot in > top outlet. The idea is, that you cap / blank off both outlets where they emerge from the tiles and turn on the hot and cold supplies and allow water pressure to equalise so the installer can prove all input and output connections and pipe work are sound / leak-free. They can also remain pressurised until boarded and tiled so you know if anyone screws through a pipe. Upon 2nd fix, the installer should switch off the water and connect flexis to both outlets. Then they should run the hot and cold supplies to flush all pipe work debris out before installing the thermostatic facia, eg to prevent debris from getting into it and causing damage and voiding your warranty. Remove that dust cap and see if you can see exactly where the leak is coming from. Try tightening the Allen bolt at the centre of the plastic X piece if it looks like it’s leaking from inside the green body.

Towel rads on a digital timer fused spur? Simple and cheap. Does it actually need to be any more complex? If so, a Shelly controller off WiFi would do it. May need a contactor if one device is to control both rads.

Insulation is available in varying thicknesses and many different material / performance types 4” EWI is normal, 75mm more popular in terraced. Internally the more the merrier in honesty, but it would be good to remove the internal plasterboard and lose as much in there as possible and then laminate with a thinner continuous internal insulation layer before new plasterboard goes on.

Just fit a PoE injector at the source? No need to have any power points / ugly PSU’s / redundant power points then.

If you’re worried about the cost of running a PIR sensor then I need to review my house! I value things for how much I like it or how much they improve my life, not how much they cost to run….. PIR in cloakroom and landing ( landing light sits at 20% until triggered to 100% ) mean no light left on and complete convenience. A pull cord is the absolute last thing I’d ever allow anyone to fit in my house, bloody horrible things! Just fit a sensor and I’ll give you the £3 p/a needed to run it at the start of each year For MVHR, I just fit humidity sensors in each bathroom and a press button switch for ablutions for the cloakroom ( 5 min boost ) and the same switch in the kitchen for preemptive boost ( 30 mins or 1 hour boost ) accordingly. £10 for 2 switches, £30 zero-volt digital timer contractor for the kitchen extended boost, job done.

Find the money to do the bathroom once afaic. There will be zero saving long term when you cost changing out baths / sinks / toilets later down the line, and unless you buy a second hand suite now, the cost uplift to buy the final fit suite will be negligible if you buy sensibly now. Tiling and then fixing and sealing up a temporary but fully working bathroom suite will leave holes in wall / floors so will be a pita to resolve downstream imo. A lot better to buy an cheap tidy used kitchen, tarted up for the immediate, then remove and replace it when the funds allow. That’ll be a far less involved process, and a much easier route to the finish line. Plus you’ll then have time to test drive the house and make better decisions for the final kitchen fit and finish / layout etc.

If a single devic3 they’re plug n play. If you get a couple iirc you’ll need a cloud key 2. All the websites etc which discuss this confused the shit out of my non-data-technical brain so I just rang my IT guy and it was up and running in no time. Nothing needed to act as a ‘server’ etc unless you want to start getting silly. One or two of those strategically positioned should be ample for most homes tbh. Yup. It’s a piss-you-off that you ( and I ) are stuck with the virgin router…..total pieces of crap. We’re with them because, when it doesn’t need to be reset and we’re not sitting around for 15 mins waiting for it to put its dummy back in, the internet speeds are too damn good to go elsewhere. Plan is to upgrade the router to the latest offering and switch off the Wi-Fi feature so it’s just a router. One cable from that goes up to the attic eave space and into a PoE switch and then down into each room as required in cat6. Been WiP so only now seeing how limited the Lite AP’s are, so that’s the next planned upgrade. Will report when done ( said with best of intentions lol ).