Nickfromwales

You can do it, Deeds.

This was who my last customer bought from. They’re all much of a muchness. Chinese things with crap instructions etc but was ok when built. I remember having to clear CT1 a few more junctions than they indicated to be watertight.

No it does not. Sheathing with OSB or plywood is recognised for racking strength. Plasterboard is friable and is not constructional, and is only mentioned as a beneficial reinforcement in most reference documents. A structure should stand on its own prior to internal 'decorative' finishes / laminations. The steam cabinets are free standing in every unit I've ever fitted, so you can go out of the wall to an external drain which is less complication.

You're at 4m wide, no need for such OTT measures. I'm currently specifying M&E for a 400m2 passive house which has between 25mm and 35mm service cavities for a family of 6. 70mm for what exactly?

MVHR units must have a trap immediately fitted on them, regardless of what’s downstream. After that trap its Carlto el Blancho.

Drive casually to work with them in the boot, and then, when nobody is looking, just hit the ejector button to jettison into the local canal.

What standard are you building to? Current regs with trickle vents? Box tick amount of insulation? Builder in on price so wants to get in and out? Ventilation heat loss from excessive infiltration is the enemy, more so than insulation in actuality. You can use UFH under carpet upstairs with good results as long as you fit a manifold dedicated to each discipline, eg one downstairs and one upstairs so each can have individual flow temps. Upstairs will need a higher flow temp to combat the TOG ratings. Having all GF UFH will convey a good bit of heat to upstairs, but is dependant on the layout, eg open plan hall / stairs / landing promotes this. Build to a good standard and you’ll find few of the upstairs rooms need big numbers for additional heating anyways, build poorly and the UFH may never get them up to temp ( unless left on 24/7 on ‘setback’ temp and then jumping via programming to ‘comfort’ for anticipated occupancy ). Cn be done with aluminium spreader plates between joists, just you’ll need the joists at 400mm centres to get the plates in between. Lining up the joists either side of steels / glulams helps a lot if they create intersections in the same room. Radiators = simple. UFH = pita, but well worth the effort in the end.

To save money for beer.

5 bathrooms, so each room to have either a bath / shower or combo? One just a cloakroom WC? Specific details are needed for advice on capacity / size / type of cylinder Number of showers per day, time they are taken, same with baths. Kitchen and utility. The size of the heat pump needs a LOT more info, eg heat loss calcs / DEPC and location / climate etc. INPUT!!

Try slowing down for the bends eh?

So many architects are fossils......... Much better results can be obtained from an architectural technician. They ( typically ) have more curiosity and ingenuity, and less bravado and ego. A lot of them need to yank their arses into 2021, but why would they bother when a lot of clients are stuck in the 00's or earlier. Try selling someone more insulation and watch when they realise that eats into the budget for the coffee machine they'll use twice.

Sober will do. Baby steps......

Me neither. Having a malfunctioning brain is a pita. Hey-ho. All you need is 4 small squares of 9mm or 12mm plywood, say 30mm square, turn a 4" screw into the corner of them ( like a bit of cheese on a cocktail stick ) and then use the 4" screw to allow you to insert the square and rotate it behind the fixing hole. Send the shower fixing screw back all the way through the shower and the plywood spacer and tighten up to the pinch pint, then relax it back off a bit. Repeat, and then let me know so I can get some shut-eye. Patience, so you don't fcuk the tiles up, would be best, so do it when you're sober and sane.

Makes sense. Go outside and play now. ?. Watch for cars, ok.

Answer one thing at a time. Loosen all the screws and see if the valve will move without really pulling stupidly on it.

Sorry. Too busy / lazy to scroll up. I’m trying to stop @pocster from going over the edge elsewhere. Appreciated.

But apart from all that, life’s good ?. What doesn’t kill you....etc. Chill, breathe, it’s just another day in paradise. Nowt will change it and stress is a killer. Yes, go for that if you know you have at least 10mm play in the plumbing? Don’t stress the pipework, it’ll just leak.

This is why we keep a good few spares, don’t we......?

The seals on the squares go on after you’ve put them through the plate. The inner o rings get a bit of your Saturday night smeared on them and friction fit over the remaining stubs of the chrome sleeves projecting from the brass valve.

Yup. Can you get the plates on so they’re both friction fit against the internal o rings of the plate inserts? The plates should stay on by themselves.

Your call. If this leaks a little, but long term, it’ll wreck the place.

Don’t think about it. Just do it. Damage limitation is paramount, so get the grout out first surrounding the tiles you need to remove, WITHOUT RUSHING AND DAMAGING THE KEEPERS, and grind some Union Jack relief cuts in the ones which are going. Work slowly, and methodically, and use dust sheets galore.

Every day is a school day mate. Tiles off, lick your wounds, put it right, stick tiles back on, go to pub. Short cuts always take 3 times longer. Just get it started now, you’ll be finished by tomorrow evening.

Nowhere unless it’s pure chinesium. Can you post the link for that unit please? And what are the dimensions? TIA.

Yup. Looked at the pic close up ?. You’re a good 10-12mm shy of what would be the minimum ‘protrusion’ here Shirley.