Nickfromwales

If it’s a ventilated void, just pull a copper pipe through and it’s perfectly fine as is.

In that case just purge with cold mains after the manifold is fitted, as per the normal commissioning requirements, and treat with inhibitor via the magnetic filter when it has all had a 48hs leak test. The only time biocides are ever used is in GSHP slinky’s when they’ve been down for some time, and that is to stop the decay of the glycol from any possible contaminates that have ‘taken up residence’. Relax, you’re fine with a cold mains flush

Less stressed is best

JTM sell them too Carry on as you are, and this is what I did when I wanted to fill and test at slab level. I didn’t want to fit the manifold in that instance as I feared it getting damaged. If you think you can mitigate then buy the manifold now and fit it, saving the loss of the cost of the fittings

Each member has a profile. As do you In that profile there is a field which you can use to state your location. Buildhub CANNOT broadcast or publish members locations, or any other info they’ve decided to keep private, as that is a breach of their individual rights. If a member discloses their location, it’s at their own discretion, and NOT the discretion of Buildhub.

‘We’ve’ had very “strong indications” regarding the near future of this market from some quite robust industry sources. We are now discounting any ToU considerations from any new ( holistic ) enquiries due to the gestation periods involved. Eg from time of enquiry to time of install is where we absolutely need to focus our diligence, so what we offer now still “does what is says on the tin” when the time of installation and commissioning arrives .

I’ll pm you.

I knew I shouldn’t have started this “In for a penny” lol.

No we won’t, because you’ll keep mentioning these numbers when telling everyone that you only use 8p of DHW a day

FYI. Ground mount over 9m2 needs planning permission.

You can add links here, in line with T&C's. Fill your boots. Dust needs blowing off sometimes, like this thread has now provoked these replies

Yup. Even people who already have these tariffs will find they are on borrowed time.

When the sun / lighting shines down a wall, you will see every joint and junction. Taper edged boards are only tapered along the lengths and not the width, so any time you want to use off-cuts you're then stuck with applying tape to surface and then filling atop that too, results are that the line then stands proud of the finished surface of the boards which you are hoping to just paint. To lose these 'bumps' a good 4-6" all around needs to be feathered out with Easyfill / Toupret and the whole area sanded flat to try and hide / blend it in. Try it, and you'll soon wait for a plasterer to become available. My advice is, get it plastered, or accept a poor finish and loads of repetitive heavy elbow-work to get it looking poor.

E7 and E10, along with other LToU and SToU tariffs will soon disappear for new customers / those wanting to switch. The banging of the industry drum(s) is not a pleasant sound atm.

If this is an MCS registered installation and you have a FiT agreement, you are NOT allowed to touch the existing panels, inverter or meter, other than to replace like for like in the event of a failure. Technically you can swing past the FiT generation / export meter and do as you say by feeding into the garage CU, but it is the greyest of grey areas. If you break the agreement, expect some severe consequences. FYI if your solar panels are 300w each, you are ONLY allowed to replace a failed unit(s) with 300w or less. 305w replacement is illegal. Basically delete this thread and do as your first suggestion.

The only way is up in this instance.

Already clearly stated in my previous boss!!!

Thanks for the fresh replies here, all very current and relevant to folk favouring ditching gas or building an ‘all electric’ house…….

NOPE. It is night and day different. A question; @zoothorn......nobody else......... "Do you understand, for once and for all, that the new system is a monoblock and not a split, ergo the noise from the internal compressor that has offended you to date, will then live OUTSIDE in the monoblock itself?" Do you understand and accept that? Please only reply with a one word answer.....stating either the word "yes" or the word "no". One word, not a single other vowel.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AP604.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=415703895099&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=AP604&product_partition_id=940253951958&campaign=shopping_excluded&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9OiPBhCOARIsAI0y71ArWLXJnC5UG9qCepREVkqRQ1gXdxMpTUvr9fvfxLGHCuXlHzh7PWoaAojZEALw_wcB

OK. The buffer tank is a hot water vessel, simply full of water, zero mechanical or moving parts NONE, ZILCH, NIL, NADA. Get the old noisy unit out of your head, keep it off this thread, WE HAVE MOVED ON!!! The most you will have where this buffer is, is a circulation pump and possibly a motorised 2 port zone valve, one near silent, one totally silent. Noise is NO LONGER an issue. Even if there is a defrost cycle, it will only involve the ASHP sucking warm water back out of the buffer, which will be no more audible than when it is in normal ( quiet ) heating mode. The new equipment is completely different to the original, the original being a split ASHP with a remote ( internal ) compressor unit ( which was your nemesis ), but the new unit is a monoblock with the compressor outside with it. EVERYTHING that makes noise IS OUTSIDE. This is the most amount of capital letters I have used in a single post since helping to start this forum, so.......read, digest, understand, move forwards. We herby set sail form new ( quieter ) waters. You can request, of the new installers, that the secondary ( buffer ) pump ( if there is to be one at the buffer ) is located elsewhere in your dwelling, eg away from the bedroom. IF you mention the old system and it's associated noises etc again, I am going to send the boys 'round to duff you up, ok We're moving forwards, away from the old shite. The management.

The buffer is just a water tank. No noise, no moving parts other than possibly a circulation pump. Do you seriously have literally nowhere for this to go?

I reckon 2 pints of medium strength ale on Friday and you’ll be on the roof yanking the slates off on the Saturday morning. Mark my words, there’s a shit-storm-a-coming with electricity costs. Going to throw all this into a spin. PV price ( for supply ) will inevitably follow.

Solarcrest seemed to do a very good job on the last install I saw them do, with a spray on internal airtight layer to take a stone cottage to AT. No experience of them doing a cavity wall tbh. GreenEnergy was down to which team came out. 1st team with them was a disaster, and the very good second team ( sent out to rectify the train wreck the 1st team created ) struggled to retrospectively pull it out of the shit. Now an expensive compromise, since made better by clients own patching and cutting, and diligent trades on site further reinforcing those works by filling gaps as they go with gun grade ( illbruck 330 ) closed-cell foam by hand.

At the least, put redundant D/C 4mm or 6mm singles in now and run them from the roof to the plant room in anticipation.