Temp

My thinking is that the history shows units used up to end December whereas the total shows units to 29th January ish. The difference is about 1100 units which is consistent with about a months use (Decembers consumption was 1300 units).

Just for info....I have an outside light on a light sensor. The light sensor gets warmer than the led light it's controlling. One day I'll get around to making my own light sensor.

You can appeal an enforcement notice and the appeal inspector will consider if that extra 30mm is significant in planning terms. Eg would your planning application have been refused at appeal had you added 30mm to your original application? Very unlikely I suspect. Planners know you are likely to win any appeal but if someone has complained they may feel obliged to act just to satisfy the complaint. In such cases they might hit you with an enforcement notice and at the same time recommend you submit a revised planning application which they are likely to approve. It also give them an excuse to hit you for the application fee.

Deleted this reply as I missunderstand the situation.

All I can suggest is wrapping the wires in polythene and using expanding foam to fill gaps. PVC insulation on wires should be kept away from eps and the like.

Since it's now Feb can you see what the meter says in History for Jan?

Looks like first is KWH and second is £ I made the total 2197 KWH and £241.65 Edit: I just added up those after "History" do you need to add something for the current month (eg most of January)?

Small article in today's Times. It say that Celotex have .... ...'admitted that there were "differences" between the safety experiment conducted at the Building Research Establishment test laboratory and the way the outcome of that test was reported' 'A spokesman said: These differences were carried through into our marketing of RS5000' 'BRE said in a statement that "anomalies" had been discovered in the testing process and "the test results have been withdrawn" Note: I believe they are referring to tests carried out at the BRE before Celotex marketed RS5000 as suitable for high rise buildings not the recent test carried out at the request of the government. I've not yet seen the statement by the BRE.

If the council (or anyone else) really "owns" the verge then you need to check where the highway boundary is. If the highway comes right up to your property boundary then it's usually no problem to get access and a dropped kerb installed. However if there is a ransom strip owned by the council (or third party) between your boundary and the highway boundary then watch out.

We have travertine in the bathroom and I recently had to replace a tile so rummaged through the left overs we have in the garage. Was quite amazed at the different colours. Looks like our tile man must have been through them all carefully pulling out any that were too extreme.

Perhaps check if the appliances are designed to be fixed to the adjacent cabinet wall. Our dish washer came fixings for this to help stop it moving. Cant use them if there is a another appliance like a fridge next door.

Nice to win occasionally. Well done.

I think the main problem is that any buyer would know that the sale was a forced sale and so would know they are in a strong bargaining position.

+1 "Installation" should clearly be zero rated (no difference between the installation of an ASHP system, a wire or a brick). Then there is a question of the commissioning. Some services are standard rated but where someone is providing several things at different rates they should rate everything at the lowest rate. So the commissioning should be zero rated as well. Might be worth making sure that both installation and commissioning are same invoice.

The process was quite simple when we sold the property. As I recall SSE sent me a form to fill in with all the details and I returned it to them after reading the meters on completion day. I think the problem is that I never lived at the "Installation Address". So while they changed the owners name and the billing address for consumption they failed to change the "billing address" for the FIT. That can't be the whole problem though because the statement that just arrived isn't for the whole period. It's almost as if they SSE had a computer crash and had to reinstall a very old backup.

Way back in like 2011 we sold a house that had solar panels on the roof earning the original 41p/kWH or whatever it was. Today I opened a letter by mistake that turned out to be addressed to the person that purchased the house. The contents suggest that after 6 years SSE still haven't correctly transferred the FIT account to the new owner or paid him the FIT. The 18 page statement says it owes him £5,000 and includes such gems as "Your next FIT meter reading is due on xxxxx 2014".

My outbuilding is tiled but I used the same verge system. I worked out how much the tiles would overhang the verge and fitted a row slates overhanging the verge to support the mortar later. Then fitted the tile battens, and the tiles then mortared the verge and ridge. I figured out it would be a lot of work lifting all the tiles onto the roof myself so hired someone to help out - passing tiles hand to hand rather than having to climb up and down the battens to get more made the job much easier.

Best get a quote to do that. Then at least you have something to compare his generous offer with, or perhaps beat him down with. Perhaps you could mole under the cobbles to avoid digging them up and relaying?

Our kitchen cabinets were painted with F&B 10 years ago. The area behind the handle on the fridge started to wear away very quickly. I would hope they have improved since.

I couldn't find anything that said Scotland was different. I did find a reference to the Land and Buildings Transaction Tax... https://www.out-law.com/en/topics/tax/property-tax-/land-and-buildings-transaction-tax--in-scotland/ which says my bold. However the rate appears to be 0% on transactions under £145K ??

If you just need some sealed units try local glass merchants. Might save money if you can collect as delivery can be expensive.

You should seek professional advice. Google found.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-742-land-and-property/vat-notice-742-land-and-property Granting a right of access is considered a "supply of land" according to... From 2.4.. So it looks like the grant of a right of access is exempt from VAT unless the deal is part of something else that is VAT rated. However I'm dimly aware of another issue that might make it liable to VAT... In some situations land/property owners can "opt to tax" land as it allows them to reclaim VAT paid on developing the property. If they do opt to tax then I think things like rental income is liable for VAT when it might not otherwise be. I don't know if this changes the VAT situation on a grant of access but I suppose it might. Check if the land owner has already made such an "option to tax" on the land. If not then this isn't an issue. If he has then it might/might not be and more investigation needed. Either way you would still have to pay VAT on their and your legal fees and I don't think these can be reclaimed.

The condition only refers to the materials so if the existing are uPVC then the new ones must also be uPVC. It doesn't mention the profile so that's up to you but should match existing within reason if that was on your application drawings. Is there another condition requiring materials to be approved by the planners? If not then no need to do that either. If there is then you may need to submit a sample/drawings first. Once you have met all conditions apply to have them formally discharged. There is a fee for this and it's cheaper to get them all done at once.

Looks like the government still haven't worked out that it's not in the energy companies interests to roll out transferrable smart meters (aka SMEETS 2) and that perhaps this is the real reason why the system isn't ready... https://www.theguardian.com/business/2018/jan/19/smart-meters-first-generation-hinder-switching-rolled-out

We have a lot of oak outside and initially treated it with Danish oil. Would never do that again as it has to be recoated every year at least. Currently trying "Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra" which claims longer life. Jury still out. +1 to what Ox07 said... Our front door is oak and is treated with "Sadolins light oak Classic" and "Sadolins Extra Clear". Note: Most of Sadolins products are made in two versions the "Classic" and the "Extra". The Classic is thinner than the Extra. If you were to use the extra version for both it would obscure the oak grain too much. Use one or two thin coats of the classic brushed out well and then the Extra Clear to give it protection. When it needs redoing you just need the Extra Clear only.