Temp

I had a quick look at the Scottish regs from your link and they look very similar to the regs in England. As I understand it the hearth issue becomes clear if you start by dividing solid fuel appliances into one of two categories: 1) Those that can raise the temperature of the hearth >100C If your WBS falls into this category then a constructional hearth is required. The Scottish regs describe various alternative constructional hearths but the key feature is a 125mm concrete slab ( see fig 3.43 and 3.48). 2) Those that are incapable of raising the hearth >100C. If your WBS falls into the second category then you can get away with a 12mm thick layer/sheet of something non-combustible like glass, slate stone etc). This must be the right size and shape and form a 12mm step up to discourage rugs being put too close. In the Scottish Regs this appears to be detailed in section 3.19.5b See also figure 3.41 and 3.42 which specify the size of the hearth in relation to the foot print of the stove. eg it must extend 300mm out the front in case embers fall out when the door is opened. Edit: My stove has legs so I assumed it was incapable of raising the hearth over 100C. I used a 20mm sheet of granite from a stone mason on top of wood flooring over PIR insulation between joists. I went for 20mm because my stove is heavy and I was worried about the weight cracking it.

I would assume that's 456mm from the whole top of the stove not just the flue pipe.

Someone told me they are now able to 3D print parts for use on F1 cars directly. Anyone seen more info?

That will teach you to go all independent :-)

https://www.screwfix.com/p/felt-support-tray-1-5m-5-pack/36622?_requestid=454280 https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p37072 https://www.howarth-timber.co.uk/building-materials/roofing/roof-ventilation/eaves/view-product/refurbishment-felt-support-tray Shop around as these seem cheaper than Screwfix (but haven't checked they are same size).. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Protector-Support-Fascia-Sagging-Protection/dp/B00PQDJNEU/ref=pd_day0_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CSRRN4REHR8CQ7741CV5 If not wide enough you would strip off enough rows of tiles and battens to allow another strip of membrane to be inserted under the lower edge of the existing membrane and put these trays under the edge of the new strip.

That's not quite correct. Nothing above ground must encroach or overhang the boundary but foundations can encroach on a neighbours land subject to you giving notice. Needless to say the neighbour may not like this but see... http://www.partywalladvice.com/2009/08/02/73/

If things like electric have to go around the house (lots of tight bends) I would try and put the cable in the duct before it's buried. It's what I did for our shed. Not sure if the utility companies will allow that though. Otherwise I wonder if you can put a manhole at bends so the cable pulls can be done in sections?

It's a matter of finding the right solvent for the adhesive on the label. Once you get the right one they usually come off easily. In the past I've tried Meths or even petrol. Try that before petrol as it stinks less!

It looks like you need something "in the wall" as Peter and Chris suggest. Chris is referring to something like this soldered to a length of copper pipe. https://plumbing4home.com/brass-plumbing-fittings-for-solder-with-copper-pipes-15mm-x-12-inch-female-bsp Do all the outside assembly, wrap pipe in tape, pass through wall, set to right depth in wall, cut pipe to length, make inside connection.

About time Axminster sourced a low cost Mitre saw with induction motor. I have their table saw and the induction motor makes it much quieter to use.

Two main issues with sliding doors.. Sliding doors are slow. They take longer and more effort to open and shut behind you without banging. They can reduce the width of the opening.. They have a "stop" which prevents the door going too far into the pocket and prevents you jamming your hand between the door handle and the frame as it opens. So you have to factor this in when working out how wide a door you need to give the regulation opening width.

Remember to put expansion gaps at doors. We screeded two rooms and then tiled right through with an opus pattern stone. The two areas of screed appear to have shrunk very slightly towards there own centres pulling apart/cracking at the doorway. Needless to say this curved crack propagated through the stone. This despite a lot of effort to do it right, including using fibres and covering the screed so it didn't dry too quickly initially, then waiting a long time for it to dry before laying the stone using a flexible adhesive etc. Just forgot/didn't know we should put an expansion gap in.

Some people say that the thermal properties of PIR degrade over time but as I understand it the value quoted is the degraded value so actually PIR is slightly better than the quoted value when new.

Can't be sure from the photos but can you set any angle or just a few preset angles?

Just remember the insulation has to hold up the concrete while it's wet (and possibly people laying the mesh and UFH).Some plastic sheeting should be used between insulation and screed.

I forgot you need to allow for a wheelchair in there as well. I suppose a sliding pocket door might be an option but personally I'm not a fan of those even though we have one in our house.

Is the door/porch the main entrance for visitors? Seems a bit odd to me to send them through the utility room to get to the living room? The utility room also has a lot of doors opening into it taking up space? Hope it's ok but I played around with your drawing a bit to see what it would look like with... Larder and porch about a meter to the left. This reduces the kitchen work surface a bit but allows a door from the Porch to open into the Kitchen rather than utility room. Made WC made slightly wider to allow door to open into WC instead of utility room.

You are allowed up to 8 WC on an unventilated common branch discharge pipe over 100mm in diameter. See Table 2 at top of page 9.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/442889/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf One option is to build the stub stacks and cap them off. Add AAV later if there is a problem. Insulate around the stub stack in the boxing. Stub stacks can also be useful for rodding if that ever becomes necessary.

Just for info, Google found the following descriptions of scaffolding types: http://www.rowlandscaffold.co.uk/independent-access-scaffold/

This is what I remember ours looked at 10 years ago.. General walk around outside and in looking for issues. Hetas plates on wood burners, air bricks etc EN marks on toughened glass (eg stairs, French doors) Coatings on all sealed units (ours tested every single pane in the house) Pressure tested drains Smoke alarms (looked but didn't test) Checked one of our doors was 30 min fire rated due to a window being bit too narrow.

It's to check for leaks (sewer gas into your house etc). It involves opening man holes and plugging the pipe coming into the manhole with a disc. A hand pump is used to pressurise the air on the upstream side of the plug and you monitor the pressure to see if it falls. Various places sell a kit.. https://www.plastics-express.co.uk/drain-testing/drain-testing-kits/drain-testing-kit-c7cw-2-x-100mm-plugs-p-pte394 Try also Screwfix or Toolstation. You need to make sure there is water in all your traps and any open stacks blocked. In my case I had a bathroom that wasn't finished so had to temporarily block a few pips that didn't yet have traps on them. Yes you can do it yourself. Our BCO wanted to observe the test during final inspection. Ask yours when he wants to do it. I recommend you do your own check before the official one just in case you have a leaking AAV or something.

http://www.bromley.gov.uk/info/200011/building_control/89/building_regulations_-_a_guide/6 It would pobably be polite to tell the BCO that you plan to start work on site at your own risk prior to recieving plans approval.

I'm wondering if they weren't very careful when they took the scaffolding down. I imagine it would be easy not to pull them out straight or leave them in the slot unsupported.

As I understand it only the legal owner can evict someone from land. So if there is no legal owner then nobody can legally evict you. I've heard of the land registry rejecting claims where the fencing allowed visitors like the postman access. As I understand it you have to demonstrate you have taken possession "to the exclusion of all others". Worth reading up on this point if there is any doubt. If a third party reacts badly and starts to take down your fence then I think your only option is to call the police. Technically they could be guilty of criminal damage but the police might not want to take action when they discover you don't own the land. Try showing receipts as proof you own the fence. I suppose you might have to resort to solicitors letters or getting an injunction if the police won't help or the third party continues to cause damage.

The process and sample letters can be found here.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/party-wall-etc-act-1996-guidance If the neighbours are happy you can DIY