Temp

Google earth and streetview can also be very handy for that sort of thing.

Quite a bit of info here.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/furnished-holiday-lettings-hs253-self-assessment-helpsheet/hs253-furnished-holiday-lettings-2015 Google "tax treatment of holiday lets"

I've not seen this site before. Looks like it's intended for HMRC staff dealing with VAT reclaims. https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-construction/vconst24000

Regarding VAT on the sale of a holiday let.. I expect you plan to hang onto the place but I've just found this which says it's zero rated if sold after three years, standard rated if sold before.. https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-construction/vconst03410

Also found this.. https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-construction/vconst24400#IDAELEWB

I don't think it matters what it's called, just if its on the same invoice as the materials or separate. Previous thread..

Seek professional advice as there are confusing VAT issues associated with new build holiday lets: This might also be of interest.. http://www.rossmartin.co.uk/sme-tax-news/418-vat-reclaim-opportunity-for-holiday-home-owners However reclaiming VAT on building materials might have implication for VAT on the rental income... https://www.accountingweb.co.uk/any-answers/vat-reclaim-on-furnished-holiday-let and here.. https://www.taxation.co.uk/Articles/2015/06/23/333276/holiday-home One reply suggests the future sale of a holiday home could be liable to VAT. So if it's subject to a planning condition it would be well worth getting that removed before any future sale. Another suggests that (unlike a self build for your own use) you can also reclaim VAT on non-building materials as it's a holiday let. Given things have changed over time I would strongly recommend getting advice in writing.

When you push the WC up against the wall it tends to push the flush pipe back into the wall. I'd recommend a brace behind the flush pipe to prevent this. Likewise the soil pipe.

Same reason workshops are always a bit too small.

Lot depends what you will be using the workbench for. Any kind of hand sawing or chisel work needs a really solid bench that won't move. Last house I built one out of 2*4 bolted to the block garage walls. Don't make it full length of the wall, you need somewhere for timber to overhang. If you expect to do a lot of work with sheet materials (eg 8'*4' sheets of mdf or ply) then free standing movable bench and or trestles at better.

Well that seems to have worked.

Test This is text I typed after the end of quote tag.

Yes that works ok but it's not what I did... What I did was copy and past a block of text from another web site (I think it said it was inserting it as rich text). I then manually added the quote, un-quote tags before and after the pasted text. I then typed more text after the quoted block. All looked ok so I clicked submit (or whatever) and it seemed to put my text inside the quoted block I tried to edit it but it wouldn't let me select the text I typed. I see jack has fixed it. How did he do that?

Tricky one.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction Edit: What's with this editor? I only put quotation tags around the bit I was quoting and it's enclosed the lot and added lots of white space. So if it's part of your alarm system then yes. If it's a gate opener then no. When I did my VAT reclaim the text I put on the spreadsheet didn't always exactly match what was written on the receipt. This was the case where I thought that what was written on the receipt was difficult to understand or open to misinterpretation.

You can buy 1.75-2m high Beech hedge plants which are great for hedging but have no leaves in winter. https://www.hedgesdirect.co.uk/acatalog/beech_fagus_hedging.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvuDPBRDnARIsAGhuAmaXp-0T1iwo3DaPk2cEzymSMb1fJqYhk1i5oTQ8vJkk6mFvuLG9M-waAol4EALw_wcB They appear to have a massive discount on bulk orders.. Edit: Sorry something wrong with the formatting below. My comments have been included in the quote..

Just don't show that model to anyone :-)

She is wrong about "only the prime contractor can zero rate goods". An electrician you hire should also zero rate his labor and materials/wire to you. However that doesn't mean she can zero rate goods for the reason below.. I would normally agree but... This is true of builders, bricklayers, plumbers, electricians etc who are carrying out zero rated work on a qualifying building. Any materials they supply must also be zero rated. However the services provided by Architects and Project Managers aren't zero rated, so I believe she must charge VAT on the labor and materials she supplies to you. VAT 708 doesn't cover this situation explicitly but it does have some relevant sections. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction But unfortunately she isn't a contractor supplying zero rated services to you. Her project management services are standard rated. Possible solutions: It does. Box 2 says.. I think if you want to put the project managers name in this box you will need the original invoices that suppliers gave your project manager. Has she already used them to reclaim the VAT she paid? If she has already reclaimed the VAT on invoices she has paid then the only way around the problem I can see is for her to effectively sell the items to you at cost (inc VAT). She can then give you an invoice in your name which you can submit with your VAT reclaim. As the value of your reclaim is significant it might be worth paying for professional advice on this. The whole VAT issue for self builders is a mess and I/we might well be wrong!

That would be possible but I wouldn't get too concerned about running the wire through a hole in the wall of the house. eg try the loft first and if it doesn't work drill a hole through the wall, push the wire through and seal around it.

I can add: Suspicious pair in paint splattered jeans caught looking at our site workers pick-up truck from the grave yard of the church next door: Q: "Do you know where John Smith is buried?"

A loft box is just for splitting and distributing the signal to multiple TVs, they don't really amplify the signal much. The problem with amplifiers is they also amplify noise and unwanted signals and add some noise of there own making. It's almost always better to use a bigger aerial rather than a small aerial and an amplifier. I've had a look at what's on the roofs in surrounding villages using Google streetview and they seem to me using medium or large aerials. So I think I'd start with something like one of these in your loft.. Wideband http://aerialsandtv.com/atvschoiceofaerials.html#Log36 Band A http://aerialsandtv.com/atvschoiceofaerials.html#Yagi18 (Specify band when ordering) If it won't go in before March I would wait until then before buying one. See if the retune happens and then perhaps go for the Band A. The wideband will work after the retune but you might have interference from mobile phone at some point. The band A won't receive all channels until the retune but should be more immune to mobile phones when they are introduced. I don't know which way your house is orientated but if you have a gable end pointing towards the transmitter I would run good quality aerial lead to the ridge at that point as well as the loft just in case an indoor aerial doesn't work well. You can get cranked poles and brackets for mounting aerials to or above a gable end. Good cable should be double screened (has both a foil and a braid screen). http://aerialsandtv.com/onlinecableandmisc.html#Cable You want enough to have several meters spare at each end. For example so there is enough to run up a short pole and possibly to the pointy end of the aerial. Well worth putting a power point in the loft (and possibly a light as well). PS: I've no connection with any of the companies/links above. They are just a good source of reference material. Plenty of other suppliers around. Sometimes a local installer is better than a national company as they have more relevant local experience. There are plenty of cowboy aerial installers out there as well.

Details of the Waltham here.. https://ukfree.tv/transmitters/tv/Waltham All digital now. I think all the analogue TV transmitters in the UK have been switched off now. If you scroll down to "How will the Waltham (Leicestershire, England) transmission frequencies change over time?" there is a table showing the aerial band needed. In general an aerial designed for just one part of the band (eg Band A) is better than a wideband (Band W) aerial as they "let in" less noise. The table says that at the moment you need a wideband aerial (Band W), however around 31st March 2018 the frequencies will change so you will be told to retune your TV. After that you only need a band A aerial but a band W would continue to work. Over time parts of the TV band will be sold off to the mobile phone networks. It's possible that when this happens (>2020?) people with a wide band aerial will see some interference/blocking or other issues. At that point the cure might involve replacing a wideband/band W aerial with a narrow band aerial (in your case a band A) or possibly the addition of a filter. In short. if you are putting up an aerial now and want good TV for Christmas I'd go for a wide band aerial in the loft. If it won't get done until after 31st March I'd probably put up a Band A aerial on the chimney (if you have one) or gable end?. Many places only sell band W aerials because it means they don't have to stock so many models of the same aerial. Sometimes the colour of the plastic bung on the end of the aerial indicates the band. eg Black for wideband/band W and red for band A. Bit more later as I have to take my kids out. I need to check which direction the transmitter is from you because it doesn't broadcast equally in all directions. Just for info, this is the typical frequency response/bands for TV aerials. You can see that band A aerials don't allow signals from the top end of the band (right hand side) where mobile phones are going to appear.

Very much depends on a bunch of factors such where your house is, how far away the transmitter is, any trees or hills etc. I used foil covered insulation in our loft and obviously that blocked the signal. I replaced a few squares with non foil covered insulation and used a large aerial that was enough to get a decent signal, however we aren't very far from quite a strong transmitter. Try entering your postcode here.. http://www.digitaluk.co.uk/reception_guide or send us your postcode by PM and we might be able to recommend an aerial. The usual rules for good reception are: Use right type and size of aerial. Mount it as high as possible. Use good quality down lead. Avoid "back of the set" booster amplifiers. Better to use a bigger aerial, if you really must use an amplifier it should be fitted on the mast near the aerial. If you want Freeview in several rooms consider putting a powered "Distribution amplifier" (aka "Loft Box") in the loft.

My understanding is that building workers are allowed to live in a temporary building onsite without planning permission. The reason some people need planning permission is because their partners or children aren't, or can't be, classed as building workers, so their use of the building isn't "in connection with the operations being carried out on the land". From the GPDO.. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/pdfs/uksi_20150596_en.pdf Page 50 says..

Companies that make automatic gates sell inductive loop detectors... https://www.theelectricgateshop.co.uk/Vehicle-Inductive-Loop-Presence-Detector http://easygates.co.uk/loop-detectors.asp Cheaper one via Amazon.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sensors-Traffic-Inductive-Vehicle-Detector/dp/B0190JJU0C But just one three star review (due to slow delivery).

Some makes say there must be a gap, others not. I know Kingspan used to do one that said no gap needed. You should allow the membrane to drape between rafters so that water can run down under the battens. If the membrane is pressed against the batten then water (aided by dirt/dust) can pool above the batten causing the batten to rot. The alternative is no drape and to use counter battens to raise the battens off the membrane.