Temp

+1 Once the room is up to temperature the element won't be on all the time. The power required to maintain that temperature depends on the power lost through the structure and to ventilation. To work that out you need info on the area of walls, floor, roof, windows and the u-values for each and likely ventilation rates. It can take awhile to do the sums and the accuracy may not be very good. Worse case... If we assume it's fully on (0.525kWH) for 12 hours a day for 6 months of the year that would be about 1000 units a year. At 12p/unit that would be £135 a year roughly. I would fit a decent programmable thermostat that allows you to set a different temperatures at different times of the day/night. Eg have it start warming up an hour before they get up, drop down a degree or two during the day, warm up again in the evening, down again at night. But perhaps that's too complicated for them?

Think I paid £30 for an extra half an hour in advance. The driver stayed longer than that but no extra charge ever arrived.

Which route will other services take? Can you share a trench to reduce costs?

How do you do a front extension under PDR?

Oh yes nothing worse than an exceptionally shallow basin. Some are just plain ridiculous. 10mm deep... http://modecordesignsolutions-basins.blogspot.com/2012/11/alape-x-plicit-shallow-1th-inset-basin.html

There isn't a huge amount of flexibility in the joints and bends are only available with a limited range of angles. To make it easier to get everything aligned I'd mark it all out on the ground before digging anything. eg put the chamber bases on the ground where you think they will go and check the ports point towards where the pipes emerge from the slab. Move the inspection chambers around a bit to find a position where they line up as close as possible. Mark locations with ground marking spray paint

Special waste here.. https://www.villeroy-boch.hu/bathroom-and-wellness/products/Universal-accessories-ViFlow-concealed-overflow-922377.html

Concealed overflow. Think you can use same on counter top basins with syphon tube hidden in wall or adjacent cabinet..

Apparently Fusion 360 will load 2d and 3d DWG files and it's free for home users. It has a tape measure function you can use to measure any distances that don't have dimensions specified.

Class A (Extensions) apply to the original house but I don't see that condition in class D Porches.. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/schedule/2/part/1/crossheading/class-d-porches/made

What matters is the distance between your foundations and any neighbouring building (not the boundary). And the depth of your foundations. Google "Guide to party wall act". It has diagrams that explain the depth Vs distance issue.

I don't think a dwg file contains the units. This can cause some cad programs to load objects at the wrong scale. https://communities.bentley.com/products/microstation/w/microstation__wiki/13875/dwg-file-is-opening-with-the-wrong-units Should be possible to guess.

What would the correct situation be for that type of hanger?

From this thread... https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/1970-migration-of-plasticizers-from-pvc-cables/ comes.. https://www.voltimum.co.uk/articles/q-day-are-pvc-cables-still-damaged

Sorry I think I double posted. Bit fiddly this phone.

Metal is ok. Don't know about polybutylene pipe. When I was developing electronic products we used polyethylene bags to keep mains leads away from EPS packaging until that was replaced by cardboard.

PVC covered wire should not be in contact with EPS. Has caused at least one fire... https://www.esfrs.org/black-museum/all-the-black-museum-cases/pvc-cable-insulation-and-polystyrene-insulation/

My understanding is that 6242B has improved fire performance (low smoke) compared to 6242Y. I believe that means they can't use PVC for the insulation but I don't know if the insulation they do use means it's ok to put in contact with EPS.

I think I would go with your first idea which was to merge the two IC into one (if the angles of the branches work out ok, you want to avoid bends between bottom of stack and IC).

The iron oak reaction is pretty strong. I once left a chisel on some oak while I had lunch. Came back to find the oak stained. I'm using Osmo UV protection oil on exterior oak over danish oil but I don't know if it's food grade.

I believe it is possible to offer a modified scheme to the inspector but not an entirely new one. I know planning inspectors can approve some applications "in part". (Eg 3 wind turbines instead of 6). I think all documents sent to the appeal officer are copied to other parties by his secretary's but it would be polite to send the planners a copy yourself.

http://www.icopal.co.uk/Products/Structural_Waterproofing/Damp_Proof_Course/DPC_Installation_SiteWork/DPC_Installation.aspx Quote All joints between lengths of damp proof course must be by overlapping the DPC a minimum of 100mm and must be sealed using Xtra-Load DPC Jointing Tape.

I don't see any issue overlapping the DPC in sections. It's frequently done at the corners of buildings and when a roll runs out.

We spent a year with the planners telling us that it had to be a small house right at the front of the plot. Then we discovered they had told a previous owner in writing that "a larger house further back on the plot might be better".

+1 The rule is with mixed supply the lot should be charged at the lowest applicable rate. This is in VAT 708 Labor is zero rated on a new build so materials on same invoice should be as well. On a conversion labor is 5% rated and materials on same invoice should also be 5% rated and that 5% can be reclaimed. Stupidly complicated system.