Temp

I also read somewhere that it's your intention at the outset that matters not completion.

Bit old but still... https://www.taxationweb.co.uk/forum/vat-claim-for-self-build-house-refused-t33144.html

Ive read that some PIR have a test or walk mode that allows them to be set up in daylight. Apparently a power cut can sometimes put them into test mode and some fiddling with the switch is needed to get back to normal mode. Missing lenses might let spiders in, blocking light to the sensor? Any dirt on the photo cell will also alter the trigger point making them switch on earlier/off later or stay enabled all day. Might just need to readjust or clean the photo cell.

Its what happens when you let an industry that has a vested interest in retaining customers run a program they don't want to pay for. It always struck me as strange that energy companies were tasked with specifying and installing them rather than the DNOs.

Then the spiders will feel more at home :-)

Put a steeply sloped/near vertical cover over it?

Yes sorry bad choice of words on my part. I meant if you just add up loads you can get to 200A but obviously it wouldn't really be sensible to install a 200A a single phase system. In addition 200A at 220V is equivalent to about 61A at 415V three phase (if I've done my sums right, perhaps someone can check).

If there is grass around the patio think about how you cut it. Mowers generally won't cut right up to a wall or edging if it's higher than the lawn - so you end up needing to get the strimmer out (why don't they build a strimmer into the side of a mower? Quick patent the idea!). If the patio is lower than the grass you can mow over the edge. That might determine if you "start" at the high or low side and where the step or edging goes. The height difference isn't great. Could be done either way a course or two of engineering bricks.

200A at 220V/single phase might be reasonable if you want more than one electric shower and a car fast charger. It works out less than 200A if you get 415V/three phase.

Most cables are sold by the area of each core not the diameter of the cores. It's just that sometimes they are lazy and drop the sq or ^2 in the description. Eg When they say a cable is 2.5mm they usually mean each core is 2.5 sq mm in area. So I'm afraid if the calculator says you need a 300 sq mm (or just 300mm) cable I'm pretty sure it means "300 sq mm per core".

This was the first 300 sq mm cable I could Google with pricing.. https://quickbit.co.uk/300mm-4-core-swa-cable £80 a meter * 500m = £40,000 Ouch.

If the original drive works perhaps try putting the problem drive in a cheap USB caddy to copy stuff over?

Id go for Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 Primer Sealer Stain Killer.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/zinsser-bulls-eye-1-2-3-primer-sealer-1ltr/10135?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700030933329085&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1243321&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249484&gclid=CjwKCAjwq-TmBRBdEiwAaO1enyt30_81LTfexB9hr5oI9fcvFI9xz_gefInb1VODoGsbf922q35hqRoCpmEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Someone here recommended their range to me for the ceiling over a shower where the steam was causing paint to peel off. Worked very well. Edit: They also have a "Cover Stain" version.

They cannot "fine" you but they could in theory call in the mortgage eg ask you to remortgage which you might find hard to do at the current stage. Some lenders won't lend on what they see as a "development", so is this just an extension or have you knocked the whole place down? If just an extension I think it's unlikely they would push for repayment as they might not get their money back after a forced sale. Perhaps try for a meeting to discuss the way forward.

Many mortgages have a condition requiring you to get their permission before undertaking building work but many people either didn't read the small print or forget. Look at it from their point of view.. You don't say what the building work is but for the duration of the work the value of the property is likely to be affected and what if you died during construction or the builder ran off with your money of you went bust and had to stop work. There are a lot of extra risks for the lender during construction work and they worry about the value of the asset they have as security for the mortgage. Does your home insurance cover the house while building work is underway? Not all policies do. Check the T&C's and write back to apologise and requesting permission. If possible include an estimate of the likely finished valuation from an estate agent. Also a copy of your builders insurance and an estimated completion date. That's all I can suggest.

It's not always easy to say if planning permission is or isn't required, however it looks like you don't need planning permission for either the windows or balcony provided: 1) It's not a conservation area or similar as different rules can apply. 2) The balcony will be less than 300mm above ground measured at the house. 3) The balcony won't affect the amenity value of a neighbour or cause an overlooking issue. 4) Permitted development rights haven't been removed (either by a planning condition or the Article 4 directive that Ferdinand mentioned, these are more common in conservation areas). 5) The new house won't be more than 50% bigger then the original house when first built. 6) The total area of balcony won't use up more than 50% of the original garden. If in doubt ask the planners but sometimes they can be reluctant to give advice unless you pay them a "pre-application fee".

I'm hacked off with gov policy. Our village once did a survey which voted in favour of a community wind turbine. Then one of the big energy companies applied to build a wind farm with 120m turbines right next to the village and two conservation areas and pissed everyone off. That application was eventually rejected by the secretary of state but it got everyone's backs up. Especially the behaviour of the developer during the planning process but that's a long story. Any way I find myself with space for a 4kW ground mounted PV array and the money and skills to do a DIY install, I even have a duct in the ground ready...but I now have a local community that would probably never speak to me. Planning rules even encourage me to make any visual impact worse. I could put them smack in the middle of the site (nearer a footpath) without planning permission but the best place would be next to the site boundary where planning permission would be required.

Welcome to the forum. I dont believe you need planning permission to change the windows (unless the original permission for your house or the one for the extension, has any relevant conditions, eg a condition removing permitted development rights). You _may_ need planning permission to enlarge the balcony(s). That's because any "raised platform" over 300mm high (12") needs planning permission. However it depends where the height is measured. Usually this is adjacent to the house so it's possible it's not higher than 300mm at that point despite being higher elsewhere. If it's >300mm high adjacent to the house then I believe it will need planning permission. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/11/decking You will need Building Control Approval (this is separate and different to planning permission). This is because structural alterations will be required to enlarge the windows openings, particularly as it looks like you will be removing brick piers and a brick corner and enlarging openings considerably. I think I would want some involvement from a structural engineer rather than just letting the builder design it. Typically you might need to put a steel beam above the new window openings but that corner/joggle you are removing means any beam isn't a simple straight beam. PS: The planners may consider that the area of the balcony counts as an extension. Given you already have an extension this may take you over what you can do without planning permission. Normally you can only add a total of 50% to the floor area of the original house so how big is the existing extension and did it need Planning permission?

Ah no i remember. We were able to get a copy of a report done by the previous owner of the site. Had to pay just a nominal fee to get it assigned over. So we didn't have to pay full cost in the end.

Sorry it was 12 years ago. I'll try and look it up tomorrow as I can't remember. When you ask for a quote the company will ask you if you have a digger available because a percentage of the cost is getting a digger on site and digging tye two or three 1-2 meter deep holes they need.

Why do they want one? Its usually to justify the foundation design. For example there could be clay soil or made up ground etc. He may also have said "soil condition report" when he meant "percolation test" to justify the soakaways design. Sometimes these two are done together. We needed a soil condition report because we had a clay and trees (but it proved we didn't need especially deep foundations so potentially we saved money) and a round feature on old maps which might have been a pond (it had been filled with rubbish and showed we needed piled foundations under the garage).

There are also rubber adapters with jubilee clips but a bit expensive. I think some universal blanking plugs also have a smaller boss on them that can be drilled out.

When you say recent do you mean the ensuite or the problem? Is it a new problem or always been slow? I find a plunger works followed by a few buckets of water but it's not a fun job.

Sorry if you know this but remember to put the special large radius bend at the bottom of each stack. Think I would also do an option 3.

I don't think you can't really start on the CIL exemption paperwork until you get full PP. You just must not start work on the site.