Temp

As I recall habitable rooms, like Bedrooms, must meet building regulations but other rooms, such as store rooms and possibly some "garden rooms" don't necessarily have to meet building regulations. Edit: That would be the building regs at time of construction.

We have India stone stuck down with mortar on some steps and 10 years down the line we have had some come off. Our steps have rough cut edges rather than bull nose not that it makes any difference.

I think that would be difficult. Many lenders won't lend at all for development projects, they prefer completed houses they can easily sell if it all goes pear shaped. Personally I would keep around £25k (10% of your total budget?) as contingency cash and try and borrow the rest at the outset. Two reasons... 1) It's much easier to dip into cash reserves if needed than it is to go back to the bank for more money. In the intervening 12 months the banks policy may have changed or interest rates may have gone up and they might be more reluctant to lend. Your own employment situation might have changed. If you have money left at the end you can always consider repaying some of the mortgage. 2) Your lender may only release funds in stages that may not match your expenditure. Perhaps you need to press ahead with one part of the project that doesn't help you achieve a milestone for financing. You might need to buy materials for the next phase before they have made the stage payment for the previous one. Having a cash float can help with that sort of thing.

Most buyers like plots to be independently developable. What I mean is buyers don't want to have to rely on the seller providing access to services or anything else once they have purchased the plot. It's not unknown for sellers to disappear before the promised shared road or drain has been installed and the plot owner might not be able to legally provide these themselves if they don't own the land over which they have to be laid. So if anything like this applies to any of your plots it would be worth sorting out those issues before sale. However if the plots each have their own boundary with the highway where services are located then I probably wouldnt bother, I'd let the buyers sort it out. It also depends on the difficulty of connecting to services. For example if a new transformer is required then definitely better for you to sort that out.

Are they currently part of your main residence? Check out any tax implication of splitting the land before sale vs at sale.

https://www.plasterersforum.com/threads/shortage-of-plaster.75643/

And there was me thinking council's had to justify the CIL by making a list of infrastructure projects that need funding. Would be good to see what actually got funded.

My plot came with a 1 acre paddock. Had to hire a power scythe to cut it the first time. Currently it takes me about an hour to cut it with a Toro DH220 ride on which I think is a 40" but can't remember. If I let it get too long that can go up to 1.5 hours as the mower clogs regularly and boy is that frustrating. Wouldn't want to have to cut 4 acres with a small ride on regularly. The good news is it won't be long before it stops growing for the summer (or at least slows down dramatically). Be a bit wary about putting cars on _dry_ grass. I've seen two cars (and a tractor) set fire to the grass and end up burnt out, it doesn't need a fuel leak or anything the exhaust can just be hot enough. Edit: I also think you should just mow what you have. It's rather too late to reseed and I very much doubt you can supply enough water for that much turf. We nearly lost the new turf on our lawn as two sprinklers weren't enough.

Do you want to use it in winter?

Two blokes should have been ok with that. Wife and I did a 6m x 5m 150mm thick slab on our own but I had a dumper to drive the premix concrete around the house. Hardest part was working a beam back and forth across the top of the shuttering to get it level. I'm wondering if you didn't have quite enough delivered? If you end up a wisker short it's much harder to level because it's below the top of the shuttering. I think I would take deliver of the building and measure it to check exact footprint. Then build a 1 course brick wall with DPC on top (around the edge to raise the building and stop any water running in under. Sweep and sand blind the concrete. Lay DPM, insulation and boards on top.

BT Solar get a mention here.. https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=5789208&page=2

Three methods to put In post and rail fencing posts: 1) A post hole borer: Have to back fill. 2) A post rammer/driver: You use a large pry bar with a pointed end to get the hole started then hammer in pointed posts. 3) Get a farmer to push them in using the bucket on a digger or similar. Use batten cut to length so they re all pushed to same depth.

I think a 25mm bit should go through most building blocks without to much difficulty, nothing like as hard as poured concrete.

If you need an alternative to SketchUp perhaps look at Fusion 360. Free for home users. See youtubd for how to get it free. Google suggests it supports BIM objects but I've not tried it. I found SketchUp easy to use at first, and even did a planning application using it, but then more complex things seemed hard. Been using F360 for only a little while but it seems easier to to me.

Didn't know there are two versions/voltages. I went for Hikvision POE cameras and a 8 port hub with built in POE support, hooked them up and they worked, no injectors or strippers. If doing so again I think I would investigate cameras with an alarm input and use a separate PIR sensor to trigger recording because motion detection either in the camera or server has problems. Possibily also separate IR illuminators to try and draw spiders away from the camera?

90 mins with my Stihl today and I managed about a quarter of it ? Seriously thinking about hiring a power scythe if I can get one at a good price. The bind weed keeps tangling around the strimmer head.

I'm trying to cut the overgrown grass in the church yard next door... We need a robo powered scythe.

Personally I would try and build the floor strong enough and rigid enough for tiles if possible. That might mean reducing the joist pitch to avoid needing to double up the WPB? I think 18mm is the minimum recommended (for carpet) but I might be wrong.

We have a Britannia dual fuel range (two electric ovens and six LPG rings). Now about 12 years old. Had two elements warp/break, door seals come loose and a door hinge fail. However all the parts were readily available on the web and not too expensive. So yes I would buy one again.

I've made three or four complaints to the ASA, all upheld. Can all be done via their website. If complaining about an online advert they will ask for a screen shot if you have one. Typically they will ask the advertiser to justify their claim. If it's a complex technical issue they may send you the advertisers reply for you to comment on. One problem is that the advertiser can drag out the process, sometimes for a year, and then withdraw the advert. In such cases the ASA don't always publish a decision so there is no bad publicity for the advertiser.

Think I agree. The porch, utility room and corridor seem wasteful. Do you need a sink in the utility room. If there is a ground floor bathroom? Perhaps move something from kitchen in there?

Looks good to me. I'd print out copies of the emails just for safety.

You can get MDPE check valves and brass taps with an MDPE backplate for mounting on a temporary post. Get one to match the size of MDPE pipe you have.

Telegraph.co.uk: Fix for smart meters 'going dumb' delayed until end of 2020... https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2019/05/17/fix-smart-meters-going-dumb-delayed-five-million-households/ Was meant to be end of 2018 so that's a 2 year delay. Clearly it proving a lot harder to sort out the mess than they thought.

I'll get one when they can guarantee I will get a SMEETS 2 meter. For some reason we don't get pestered to have one at all.