Temp

The iron oak reaction is pretty strong. I once left a chisel on some oak while I had lunch. Came back to find the oak stained. I'm using Osmo UV protection oil on exterior oak over danish oil but I don't know if it's food grade.

I believe it is possible to offer a modified scheme to the inspector but not an entirely new one. I know planning inspectors can approve some applications "in part". (Eg 3 wind turbines instead of 6). I think all documents sent to the appeal officer are copied to other parties by his secretary's but it would be polite to send the planners a copy yourself.

http://www.icopal.co.uk/Products/Structural_Waterproofing/Damp_Proof_Course/DPC_Installation_SiteWork/DPC_Installation.aspx Quote All joints between lengths of damp proof course must be by overlapping the DPC a minimum of 100mm and must be sealed using Xtra-Load DPC Jointing Tape.

I don't see any issue overlapping the DPC in sections. It's frequently done at the corners of buildings and when a roll runs out.

We spent a year with the planners telling us that it had to be a small house right at the front of the plot. Then we discovered they had told a previous owner in writing that "a larger house further back on the plot might be better".

+1 The rule is with mixed supply the lot should be charged at the lowest applicable rate. This is in VAT 708 Labor is zero rated on a new build so materials on same invoice should be as well. On a conversion labor is 5% rated and materials on same invoice should also be 5% rated and that 5% can be reclaimed. Stupidly complicated system.

They seem to be on the list here https://www.ada.org.uk/member_type/local-authorities/

Was the council a consultee when your planning application went in? Was the need to discharge mentioned in the spplication. If so I would write back to whoever asked for confirmation staring that "The LLFA is Cheshire West & Chester Borough Council who were a consultee during the planning process and raised no objections, comments or conditions". It they weren't consulted I would send the council details of your plans and PP by recorded delivery asking for approval. In the covering letter tell you comply with EA guidance will assume you have their approval if they raise no objection by some date (say two weeks time?). Suggest they ask for more time if they need it.

If the seller has started development can you still claim the CIL self build exemption (which has to be claimed before work starts on site)? I forget if someone has already found the answer to this.

Many of you will have heard of Goop, a liquid you put in tyres to automatically seal holes/punctures. Well it seems there is a similar tech for sealing houses... If you know why sealing is important skip to 2:21..

What soil type? Removing a tree can also cause foundation problems. Take proper advice before doing anything.

Usually there is some makers info and model numbers printed on the grey plastic somewhere but could be the side facing the wall :-(

Will have a look and get back to you.

Both PLA and PETG are pretty rigid but I think 0.5mm should be plenty of wiggle room. My shower has a chrome plated stay to the top of the glass. There is a allen key bolt that clamps the glass. Bolt has some sort of nylon pad on the end.

White PTEG would be my recommendation as pretty sure I can get a 10m sample easily. There are few other colours are available but most are vivid colours you wouldn't want in a bathroom like lime green, translucent blue or black. Have a look on Amazon. I can print PETG or PLA. PLA is easiest to print and there are probably more colours but it's claimed to be biodegradable so not sure how long it lasts. PETG is a bit more fussy about the printer settings but should be stronger than PLA. Some black I printed recently came out OK.

Wouldn't do anything until you know its not blocked. Meanwhile you could measure the depth of water above the linear drain at various points. If you can find deeper water anywhere else in the same puddle that bit won't drain.

I have a single mid height stat on my thermal store set to 50C but I only have DHW and UFH (no rads). Seems plenty hot enough for showers and washing up.

Just had a quick 15min play around with Fusion 360 over a cup of tea. At 150mm long and 25% infill Cura says it needs about 12m of filament which isn't much but more than a 10m sample. Holes might be better going up from underneath. Anyway have a think. I'm painting the church hall next door most of tomorrow.

I'm happy to have a go for a donation to BH. Currently I've only got Orange and Black PLA but have an idea... Does it need to be 150mm long? If it could be say 100mm long I think I could make one from a 10m sample of white PETG which would be stronger and possibly longer life. As drawn corners/edges would be quite sharp. I can easily add small bevel? Likewise could add fixing hole if you wanted to screw it to the ceiling. Just off to pick up my kids.

Amazon have one without handle for £71.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/OX-OX-P016612-Aluminium-Float-Multi-Colour/dp/B01M17S3SF/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=OX+Aluminium+Bull+Float&qid=1560425379&s=diy&sr=1-2

I think if its applied well they can't get it out.

Go ask them what sort of earnings multiple they are lending at the moment. Google found thus but it might be out of date?.. https://www.buildstore.co.uk/finance/selfbuildmortgages-article-6.html 3x joint income would mean they will lend you around £90K. 3.75x would mean they will lend you around £112K So you would have the plot and between £190-£212K to build the house. https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/average-self-builder-spend-report/ If you worked on £130 per square foot that's around 1400sqf/140sqm to 1600sqf/160sqm. Your mileage may vary as they say.

If you go for T&G check if you should/shouldn't fully seat the T into the G. I had some doors made that used T&G. The folks that made it fully seated the boards so when the wood expanded the whole door bowed and looked pregnant. If they hadn't fully seated the T&G there wouldn't have been a problem.I'm not sure if the same applies to T&G cladding but I don't see why the same problem couldn't arise? Perhaps it depends on time of year/humidity levels when installed?

I've only done horizontal oak cladding. Drilling was essential for that. Main issue is at the ends of planks. Lets say you have a joint between two planks. This is usually arranged to occur over a batten. If the batten is 2" wide each plank only has 1" over the batten. So you are nailing within 1" and possible less from the end of the plank. This makes it prone to splitting unless you pre-drill. Even then I drilled as far as possible from the end and at an angle into the batten. Use wide battens. Oaks also shrinks in length and having oversize hole helps stop the oak pulling the nails. Think about nail heads. You will most likely be using Stainless Steel or some other metal that doesn't corrode in a salty atmosphere. Some types are available with textured heads so that they don't reflect the sunlight quite as badly. Some timbers like oak also corrode nails if made from the wrong metal so check that. Unlike roof tiles oak planks aren't overlapped enough to prevent water going through joints between adjacent planks. So behind all butt joints I first nailed a 6" wide strip of DPM to the batten at the top and let the bottom end come out between the layers of planks. That way any water getting through a butt joint would be directed to the outside. Later trimmed off the exposed ends so you cant see the strips unless you look through a gap.

Looks like the government might actually force a recall of Whirlpool tumble dryers... https://news.sky.com/story/whirlpool-faces-tumble-dryer-recall-notice-over-fire-fears-11739916