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I had a look at the manual and unfortunately there doesn't seem to be an optional feature to disable the proximity sensor. Earlier Heatmiser stats only light up when you press a button as they don't have a proximity sensor. Worth asking them to consider adding such a feature as pretty sure it would just be a software change.

Can they tell you how the proximity sensor works? Some sort of capacitive sensor or does it bounce IR off you? I think you have done everything to eliminate a faulty stat. I'm wondering if they have a design issue? Proximity sensor too sensitive? Picking up mobile phone? Noise on the wiring?

Where we lived in Belgium the recycling centre was in two parts for recyclables and non-recyclable. They had a weighbridge on the entrance and exit of the non-recyclable side to calculate your bill. However you could walk between the two sections. So drop the wife off at the entrance to the recycling centre with a bag. You drive into the non-recyclable side getting weighed on the way in. Off load and pick up the wife. If you aren't careful you can weight more on the way out than on the way in :-)

What does your planning consent say? Convert or knock down and rebuild? If its convert then you can't just knock all the walls down and rebuild them as that would breech your planning consent.

Typically the ground conditions dictate the design of type and size of foundations. When designing a new house on suspect ground, the first step would be to get a ground condition report done. That involves digging some holes and pushing instruments into the ground to measure its load bearing capability. That data can be given to an SE to use to design the foundations. Why did the SE say "underpin and keep fingers crossed"? Underpinning works well if the ground is suitable. If he thinks it might not be then perhaps best get it checked out. See what others here say.

If you really wanted to go to town on sound proofing then it would be four layers of plasterboard - two each side. Staggered offset studs... https://www.plinthandchintz.com/glossary/staggered-stud-wall-construction/

United Utilities refer to Appendix H4 in Approved Document H. The full text of _requirement_ H4 says... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200135/approved_documents/71/part_h_-_drainage_and_waste_disposal The rest of the approved doc mentions building within 3m of the centreline, but I can't see any reference to driveways constituting building work. Forgot to add that you are required to protect a sewer during construction (eg from heavy lorries delivering stuff).

I hate the word deposit... When you buy any house (including one already built) the bank is interested in the loan to value ratio. Regardless of how much you borrow the bank usually holds the whole house and land as security. If you borrow 80% of the value the remaining 20% is usually referred to as a deposit but a better name for it would be "additional security" because its additional security the bank has if you default. It covers their ass if they have to sell after house prices have fallen. One possibility is that you might be able to (and want to) borrow a bit more than the estimated build cost. For example if the build cost is £250K and the land is valued at £100K you might be able to borrow 80% of £350K = £280k giving you £30K of contingency. Other matters: There are some legal issues associated with gifts of land. One is that you must formally accept the gift or it can be invalid. That might leave you and their estate with an IHT bill (even if they survive 7 years). So write your parents a nice thank you letter once the plot is registered in your name(s) at the land registry and make sure they keep it with their will. Your parents may also face a CGT bill if the land isn't currently part of their principle private residence (even if they give it to you for £0). CGT would be calculated on the market value less their GCT allowances at the time of the gift. Depending on their tax situation it might well be better for you to get PP after they have gifted you the land not before. eg because getting PP will increase the value a lot.

Perhaps look at one with a brush less motor. Should be quieter and less maintenance.

This is what I got.. SWA cable from MCB in house CU. Braid connected to earth in the CU at the house end only. Earth rod at shed end. Garage CU in the shed with RCD for power sockets.

The IET have a guide "ELECTRICAL INSTALLATIONS OUTDOORS: A SUPPLY TO A DETACHED OUTBUILDING". Not sure if link will work... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://electrical.theiet.org/media/1695/electrical-installations-outdoors-a-supply-to-a-detached-outbuilding.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjp3-2y28TjAhUZi1wKHe0DCrMQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw383FWw05Q6zVowQqp2B-0o&cshid=1563668016887

The NHBC have a guide on Building near Trees. Removing trees can be the wrong thing to do as on some soil types it can cause heave. We have trees virtually touching our house. I don't recall any questions on trees when we insured it. We have clay soil and didn't need piled foundations, just had to line the trenches with foam boards.

I'll be surprised if the moss is the cause.

Apparently when you convert an agriculture building you can keep all of the structure and still claim the VAT back. See Peters comment in this thread. I've not checked the details.

Is it in a conservation area?

What exactly does your existing permission say? And what does the new application for a two storey house say you want to do? I disagree with Mike. If you only have permission for a conversion but knock the buildings down the planners may well come back and demand a new planning application. They will point out you have permission for a conversion not a knock down and rebuild. They may grant it or could be mean and say that now the buildings have gone you are trying to get permission for a new house in the country side which is against policy. Its unfair but it has happened before. People have been forced to go to appeal taking time and money. What I would do is check the foundations and if necessary amend your application to a knock down and rebuild.

Perhaps ask your BCO if you can make one yourself? Take a trip to the DIY sheds to copy a design?. Hardwood door sills already profiled and glazing bead profiles/mouldings are available so I don't think you need to do any fancy machining. Will need a toughened glass sealed unit if the side panel is going to be full height (but any glass shop can make one for you to your template).

Pretty sure you could get a nice hand made oak door and frame for less than £4k around my parts. Good question. On new buildings I think the clear open width needs to be 800 so an 838mm wide door would probably have to open past 90 degrees to be acceptable depending on how thick the door is. However on existing buildings its 750/775mm so should be ok.

Heard this on Radio 4 today. Some people that used a private BCO have had to revert to the LABC. LABC wants evidence their foundations and drains were installed correctly but private BCO is now uncontactable. Moral of story... If you use a private BCO take hundreds of photos before covering anything.

I ended up making my cables and put the connector in a small plastic box fixed under the eaves.

There are a bunch of rules limiting what you can do without needing planning permission. Best work through each one on this page to be sure it doesn't cause a problem.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/17/extensions

See this thread.. https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=5797650 Google found what looks like form AP1 here.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/744253/AP1__2018-05-25_.pdf You should get a solicitor to help fill it in and will need plans of the site. I'm not sure if you can give yourself an easement? That's another possible issue. I would also speak to a mortgage broker. You might find remortgaging your current property is cheaper then a specialist self build mortgage. Make sure to check out all the fees, including for early redemption. When we purchased a buy to let in the 1980s it was cheaper to increase our mortgage on the house we lived in than take out a new one on the buy to let. Finally a reminder to make sure to get your self build CIL exemption paperwork done before you start any building work on site.

If building a brick outer, block inner cavity wall you usually arrange for both inner and outer to end up at same height at the dpc which is typically at least 150mm above ground. Bricks and blocks are different heights so some combinations achieve this and some dont (unless you cut blocks). Plan ahead and this determines the ideal height(s) to fill the trench to below dpc.

NHBC say 225mm cavity below dpc. Can be reduced to 150mm if there are weep holes.. http://nhbccampaigns.co.uk/landingpages/techzone/previous_versions/2011/Part5/section1/sitework.htm

For purposes of prolonging PP your work must be legal so you need to comply with any conditions that say "Before work starts on site..."in order for work to have "started" However for the purposes of the CIL exemption I would be much more careful... https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukdsi/2010/9780111492390 Commencement of development 7.—(1) This regulation has effect for determining when development is to be treated as commencing for the purposes of Part 11 of PA 2008. (2) Development is to be treated as commencing on the earliest date on which any material operation begins to be carried out on the relevant land. (3) Paragraph (2) is subject to the following provisions of this regulation. (4) Development is to be treated as commencing on the day planning permission is granted for that development if planning permission had previously been granted for that development for a limited period. (5) Development for which planning permission is— (a)granted under section 73A of TCPA (planning permission for development already carried out); or (b)granted or modified under section 177(1) of TCPA 1990 (grant or modification of planning permission on appeals against enforcement notices), is to be treated as commencing on the day planning permission for that development is granted or modified (as the case may be). (6) In this regulation “material operation” has the same meaning as in section 56(4) of TCPA 1990(16) (time when development begun). https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1990/8/section/56 (4)In subsection (2) “material operation” means— (a)any work of construction in the course of the erection of a building; F4[(aa)any work of demolition of a building;] (b)the digging of a trench which is to contain the foundations, or part of the foundations, of a building; (c)the laying of any underground main or pipe to the foundations, or part of the foundations, of a building or to any such trench as is mentioned in paragraph (b); (d)any operation in the course of laying out or constructing a road or part of a road; (e)any change in the use of any land which constitutes material development. ok so you can argue that a driveway is not a road and you can use a site for 28 days without needing PP for change of use, but do you want the agro if they get bloody minded? Would installing a dropped kerb be "driveway" or "road"?