Temp

That doesn't sound right. If it's his wall on his property then you will have to build another wall on your side. Insulation should be on your side of this new wall not between yours and his. Also bear in mind that nothing should overhang the boundary, including the eaves, verge or gutters. Normally these project out from the wall so the wall may have to be set back further from the boundary. The boundary line may not be his wall but his eaves or verge.

Building over a driveway? Do you mean building the walls on a concrete driveway instead of cutting through it and forming proper foundations? You might have one room built that way already but was it approved by Building Control?

It's says "any part of the building" (the left hand corner is a part) .."measured from the surface of the ground immediately adjacent to that part"(eg adjacent to the left hand corner). I'm sure the wording in England is different and in England it would be measured from the right hand side.

That sounds more restrictive than in England. Normally the height is measured from the highest point of the ground. This says from the ground adjacent. In effect the height restriction slopes with the ground.

Not just decking. If the platform (4x4) is bigger than the cabin (3x3) the extra bit will look like decking to the planners. So that area must just be open beams no decking on top.

I think we need a diagram of what you would like to build. Here is my interpretation of the situation. If it's way off have a go at producing one yourself..

and here is an enforcement notice (again in England).. https://www3.havering.gov.uk/Documents/Planning/Enforcement-notices/2014/3-austral-drive-hornchurch.pdf

This is about England and possibly dated (2010) but.. https://www.gardenlaw.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13067 So it seems the height of decking on sloping ground is NOT measured the same way as an outbuilding.

Did you pay the deposit by credit card? If so you should be able to get the money back from the card company. Contact them asking what you need to do to claim under Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act. Keep copies of any paperwork or email you have and from now on. If you paid by any other means it will be difficult to recover anything. You would need to find out the name of the administrator/receiver and contact them to register a claim but you would be an unsecured creditor so probably last in the queue. You should also find out if they really have gone into administration yet or are just telling you that hoping you will go away (not unheard of). If they haven't then you need to wait until they fail to install. Then give them written notice that if they don't install in say 2 weeks (by date) you will hold them in breech of contract. Finally after that you can go to small claims court and possibly escalate it, ending up with you sending bailiffs (or whatever they call themselves) to try and collect the money. However you do have to give them the opportunity to hold up their end of the contract before you can hold them in breech and go to court. There are fees and hassle going this route and it can be like throwing good money after bad depending on how much is at stake. Sorry but unless you paid by CC it doesn't look hopeful.

Which country are you in?

The height of the building might be ok but a verranda would count as a "raised platform". Raised platforms over something like 30cm high usually need planning permission. I'm not sure how they measure the height on sloping ground but if it's above the stream it sounds like it will be more than 30cm above ground everywhere.

If the garage isn't on PP drawings it must be being built under PDR which dont exist until after the house is constructed (I believe). So the vat man could say it wasn't lawful to build it at same time as the house and deny the reclaim on the garage. Why not get it added to the PP?

Vat 708 paragraph 3.2.1 in the table it says a garage qualifies if built at same time as new house. I can't see a reference to rooms above a garage in vat 708. Anyone got s paragraph number?

We didn't hear back ?

One possibility would be to hire a QS to go over the cost estimates but that in itself can be expensive. I noticed rather a lot of figures like £12,995 and £13,995.

You will need some timber or steel beams to make a platform on which to build the cabin. If the pads are further apart than they need be that just affects the size of the beams. No big deal.

Have you considered constructing an agricultural building (planning not always required), waiting 10 years and then converting it? I believe you would need at least 5 hectares. The whole site must only be used for an agricultural purpose for that period. In theory you coukld erect a nice oak framed barn specially designed to be easily convertable. https://www.gov.uk/planning-permissions-for-farms/permitted-development https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/barn-conversions-and-permitted-development/

My builders rule was never order off plan if you can measure it on site. He remeasured all the window openings before ordering windows.

Timber seems to be measured before they plane it smooth. So 50*50mm planed timber has a finished size of 44*44mm.

I guess things have changed over past 12 years. When we got site insurance there were virtually no questions.

Even if they are from the same batch I would still mix them by taking bricks from several packs at once.

The bricks used on my house and at least one other in the village are a mix of three different bricks, each of which can be purchased separately. If you just buy one of the three it looks too dark or to light or wrong colour.

As long as you don't go below their footings you do not need a party wall agreement.

Perhaps because the warranty isn't that great? It has to be below 66% within 8 years to qualify on the leaf.. https://electrek.co/2018/03/26/nissan-leaf-battery-pack-replacement-program/

Am I right in thinking the early Nissan Leaf didn't have battery cooling?