Temp

Never tried that. Google found this... https://www.tilersforums.com/threads/vertical-brick-bond-advice.78243/ If the top of the tray is dead level I don't see why you can't work up from that. I would leave same gap as a regular grout line (eg use tile spaces to raise lower row of tiles off tray).

Quick vid showing how I use a rubber faced block or blatt to level tiles. After spreading and notching the adhesive (not shown!) I place tiles in rows. Then one end of the block is placed on the "previous tile" and the other end is tapped/pressed on the "new tile". On a wall you normally work upwards in rows from a batten, on a floor you work towards yourself so you back out of the room. Normally I would also use tile spacers to get uniform grout lines.

Heavy wall tiles should not normally fall off but sometimes try to slide down a bit. That's why I use two spacers per tile to keep uniform gaps. Fix a batten to the wall for first row of tiles to rest on. Should be bit less than half a tile up to reduce waste. Tile in rows going up. When set remove batten and cut tiles to fit between bottom row and floor/bath.

I've never used a tile leveling system nor seen a professional use one. I do however use spacers to keep joints uniform. The basic principle of tiling is that a notched trowel is used to form ridges and furrows in the adhesive. These allow the tile to be pressed into the adhesive a varying amount by providing somewhere for the excess adhesive to go. Within reason, the deeper the notches the more you can adjust the height. Don't hold the trowel at too shallow an angle as that reduces the depth. Aim for uniformity when applying adhesive. I was taught how to use a rubber faced wooden block to level tiles with those around them and find this works very well on both floor and wall tiles. The technique is to rest one end of the block on the/a previous tile and lift and tap the other end onto the new tile. Must make a video one day.

Most DIY sheds will give you a hand written vat receipt with your name on it if you ask for one. I think a till receipt on its own is ok if under £30 but check.

So how will the vat thing work for over 60s? If they order panels off ebay is there going to be a tick box for over 60s or will they have to reclaim it? Let me guess.. the over 60s will only get zero rated PV if it comes from an expensive accredited supplier?

+1 Once the room is up to temperature the element won't be on all the time. The power required to maintain that temperature depends on the power lost through the structure and to ventilation. To work that out you need info on the area of walls, floor, roof, windows and the u-values for each and likely ventilation rates. It can take awhile to do the sums and the accuracy may not be very good. Worse case... If we assume it's fully on (0.525kWH) for 12 hours a day for 6 months of the year that would be about 1000 units a year. At 12p/unit that would be £135 a year roughly. I would fit a decent programmable thermostat that allows you to set a different temperatures at different times of the day/night. Eg have it start warming up an hour before they get up, drop down a degree or two during the day, warm up again in the evening, down again at night. But perhaps that's too complicated for them?

Think I paid £30 for an extra half an hour in advance. The driver stayed longer than that but no extra charge ever arrived.

Which route will other services take? Can you share a trench to reduce costs?

How do you do a front extension under PDR?

Oh yes nothing worse than an exceptionally shallow basin. Some are just plain ridiculous. 10mm deep... http://modecordesignsolutions-basins.blogspot.com/2012/11/alape-x-plicit-shallow-1th-inset-basin.html

There isn't a huge amount of flexibility in the joints and bends are only available with a limited range of angles. To make it easier to get everything aligned I'd mark it all out on the ground before digging anything. eg put the chamber bases on the ground where you think they will go and check the ports point towards where the pipes emerge from the slab. Move the inspection chambers around a bit to find a position where they line up as close as possible. Mark locations with ground marking spray paint

Special waste here.. https://www.villeroy-boch.hu/bathroom-and-wellness/products/Universal-accessories-ViFlow-concealed-overflow-922377.html

Concealed overflow. Think you can use same on counter top basins with syphon tube hidden in wall or adjacent cabinet..

Apparently Fusion 360 will load 2d and 3d DWG files and it's free for home users. It has a tape measure function you can use to measure any distances that don't have dimensions specified.

Class A (Extensions) apply to the original house but I don't see that condition in class D Porches.. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/schedule/2/part/1/crossheading/class-d-porches/made

What matters is the distance between your foundations and any neighbouring building (not the boundary). And the depth of your foundations. Google "Guide to party wall act". It has diagrams that explain the depth Vs distance issue.

I don't think a dwg file contains the units. This can cause some cad programs to load objects at the wrong scale. https://communities.bentley.com/products/microstation/w/microstation__wiki/13875/dwg-file-is-opening-with-the-wrong-units Should be possible to guess.

What would the correct situation be for that type of hanger?

From this thread... https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/1970-migration-of-plasticizers-from-pvc-cables/ comes.. https://www.voltimum.co.uk/articles/q-day-are-pvc-cables-still-damaged

Sorry I think I double posted. Bit fiddly this phone.

Metal is ok. Don't know about polybutylene pipe. When I was developing electronic products we used polyethylene bags to keep mains leads away from EPS packaging until that was replaced by cardboard.

PVC covered wire should not be in contact with EPS. Has caused at least one fire... https://www.esfrs.org/black-museum/all-the-black-museum-cases/pvc-cable-insulation-and-polystyrene-insulation/

My understanding is that 6242B has improved fire performance (low smoke) compared to 6242Y. I believe that means they can't use PVC for the insulation but I don't know if the insulation they do use means it's ok to put in contact with EPS.

I think I would go with your first idea which was to merge the two IC into one (if the angles of the branches work out ok, you want to avoid bends between bottom of stack and IC).