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Sorry didn't know some were restricted. I also didn't notice the final post that says the OP eventually won their case.

Well you best see this thread..

If they will be visible I would get both courses redone. Try and find somewhere with the bricks in stock and go collect them taking some of yours to compare. They should never have ordered small batches. Even with them all ordered at once the should have mixed them up.

If you fill a wine bottle with water and turn it upside down with the neck under water in the bird bath the water doesn't run out of the bottle until the birds drink and the water and the level falls low enough to allow air into the bottle. Many variations on this theme are possible with larger bottles.

It doesn't appear to be of any great significance to the conservation area so you could probably get planning permission if needed.

Oh yes I see what you mean.

It seems you weren't wrong. Some give free pre-app advice (at least they did in 2016).. https://www.local.gov.uk/sites/default/files/documents/planning-self-and-custom--edc.pdf Crash Bang ... the sound of my jaw hitting the floor.

The only situation I can imagine it being free is if the council has a special site they want to encourage self builders to build on for some reason.

Google says do it at night as they are less aggressive then. Use a red cloth over your torch to stop them heading for your light.

Last year we had a huge cloud of wasps coming out of the soffit in a hard to reach place. I drove miles to purchase several cans of wasp killer intending to rig up something on a pole. Got a can tapped to the end of the pole and discovered....the wasps had buggered off on their own. Wasted about three hours.

How tall is the blue wall you would like to demolish... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200126/applications/60/consent_types/5

+1 or buy a cheap drill powered pump to circulate water from a bucket through the UFH back to the bucket. Manifold usually has connections for garden hose.

That's very good news. Good luck with that. Some people see any tree as sacred even if it's damaging better quality trees nearby. I've got a line of assorted trees down the side of my plot (now garden) that we have never actually wanted to remove. During the planning process I had to get a tree survey done and without prompting the arboriculturist described them as "self seeded rubbish that he would remove if it was his plot" and "removing them would benefit the nice beech trees in the church yard". The council tree officer obviously disagreed and required me to erect fencing to protect them from damage during construction even though it was nowhere near them. More than two years later I had to cut up a fallen branch with a chain saw. That started a rumor I was cutting down these trees. Suddenly everyone is out walking their dog through the church yard. When I explained what I was doing they replied "we were worried you were cutting down the trees". You might consider offering to replace them with native (slow growing!) trees.

I agree with Peter. That would need planning permission because its over 1m high. I think it would be difficult to get PP for a wall as most likely they will say a wall will look too massive. You could try for a 2m wall and agree to amend it to a 2m fence? Failing that I think your best bet is a 1m high fence (no planning permission required) and a hedge to match the neighbour as Peter suggests. Once it's 2m high you might get permission for a 2m wall but I doubt it. .

I don't believe you need planning permission to replace a wall with a fence that is the same height and in the same position (unless there is an article 4 direction for the area or a planning condition). If it's going to be nearer the road then I think very likely you would need planning permission if over 1m. PS: I don't think the physical layout of the road and path makes any real difference. The highway probably extends right up to your property boundary anyway. They could in theory widen the road and move the footpath nearer. I have a wide grass verge in front of my house and a footpath that crosses the road and verge it at 90 degrees. Apparently the route of the footpath across the verge "isn't defined" because the whole verge is part of the highway so people can in theory walk, drive or park anywhere on it.

These look cool.. https://www.kwikset.com/kevo/default The video doesn't tell you much. I assume it uses your phone to identify you when you touch the lock, or perhaps a blue tooth key fob?

One of my sons is into indoor climbing. His prints wear off and he has problems with the finger print recognition on his phone :-)

Don't think you need planning permission to go from B1 to residential. Just need to do the "Prior Approval Application" process. Access issues can be difficult to resolve. First step would be to register on the Land Registry web site and order the title deeds for the property AND the surrounding properties. They email you pdf files almost instantly. If the site charges more than £7 each its probably a fake site. The title for neighbouring properties should detail any rights of way over their land that are already recognised by the land registry. You can search the register by property address. https://www.gov.uk/get-information-about-property-and-land/search-the-register Additional rights of way might exist "by prescription" but you may have to prove the route has been used for 20 years without interruption and without permission. For example see guides such as.. https://www.wrighthassall.co.uk/knowledge/legal-articles/2014/03/14/claiming-right-way-prescription/ If you can prove it you can get the right of way registered on their deeds. Note that if the neighbour agreed a previous owner could use their driveway for access informally you won't be able to claim a right of way exists and the neighbour could withdraw permission at any time. Eg The use for 20 years must be without permission. If you proved the side door had been used for 20 years that might only get you a right of way on foot. Eg not for a vehicle. Eventually you will need professional advice.

https://www.oadby-wigston.gov.uk/pages/amendments_following_the_grant_of_planning_permission Minor Material Amendments Central government consider that the definition of a minor material amendment is 'one whose scale and nature results in a development which is not substantially different from the one which has been approved'. In essence, a minor material amendment is something of a minor nature that has a material impact on the proposed development or on neighbouring properties. Amendments which are not minor in nature cannot be considered under this procedure and should be the subject of a new planning application.

Normally you would need to make either a "minor material amendment" or a "non-material amendment" depending on the scale of the change. You can google the rules on what counts as a minor material amendment. I think they can ask for a full application if the overall scale of the development changes.

It sounds like they thought you wanted to build the extension under PDR so were expecting you to ask for the condition removing PDR to be deleted.

PIR is left exposed in cavity walls while they are built. I'd just buy a large cheap tarp off ebay. Stick some blocks on it. I'd be more worried about it being stolen .

PS The edges of green oak can be surprisingly sharp. Consider rounding or chamfering them before assembly. This may also extend life of the finish. If you want to retain the honey colour of new oak I recommend either... 1 coat Danish & 3 coats Osmo UV Protection oil. or Something like 1 thin coat of Sadolin Classic light oak and 2/3 of Sadolin Extra Clear. Must be thin coats!

At the bottom build a brick plinth with a 15-20mm diameter stainless steel rod sticking out the top. Drill matching hole in bottom of post. Cover plinth with bit of lead sheet draped about 0.75" down the sloping face of the plinth bricks (anti frost measure) before placing oak post in position over the rod. At top drill drill an oversize hole/slot for a screw so the post can move vertically. The oak will/can shrink in length about 20mm. If hole not made oversize you can get a gap at the bottom of the post with the whole weight hanging on the top screw. Dont ask how I know. Use stainless steel screw with washers under the head as PeterW suggests. Plug screw head hole with oak peg to simulate a pegged joint.

Some people don't have a handle on their front door , just a keyhole and the key works the bolt (no latch).