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Found 5 results

  1. Hi all... so i couldn't see this question/answer in any searches on here... my scenario 600mm plastic inspection chamber (IC) with plastic risers vs brick built manhole both with metal lids. (650mm deep) I've had contradicting advice that plastic IC's break when vehicles are driven over them and brick manholes are the the best way to go. The position of drain will be in the front driveway (hardscaped) for a residential dwelling which is a self build. There is an option to place the new drain further down the existing foul line which will be positioned in proposed soft landscape (non parking area) but that means due to the gravity fall existing drain, i will have to excavated down to a possible 1.1m deep. Look forward to hearing of your experiences and thoughts on longevity and cost solution for this scenario. Andee
  2. Sorry if the question has been asked before (I did do a quick search) but I'm really tired after a couple of hard days and Part H is confusing me. Can someone be kind enough to advise me as to what the minimum depth is for foul water pipes running along side the house and then across the garden to a sewage treatment plant is. I see information for fields and roads but not garden etc... I guess it may be different near the house from in open garden. If the regs don't set a minimum depth, then experience appreciated. There are some things you don't want to step in when walking in the garden and, without a dog, this could be the greatest risk.
  3. My recent re-aquaintace with the mark 1 shovel, MOT1, and Glacial Till has made me much more cautious about how deep to dig my foul drain trench. Its not a matter of popping down to fetch red diesel any more ..... I have found these two YT videos very helpful Osma's guidance (at 4:05) and this gentle bit of mickey taking ... How much shingle needs to be put under the drainage pipe? The guy from Osma says 100mm; is he right? I can't find any guidance that says it must be 100mm.
  4. Our house design has an internal soil stack. So we need to think about noise. Have a look at this diagram. The brilliant thing about our design is that the wetroom is built onto the front wall of the house - so (below the level of the flat roof shown) there are insulated blocks inside the heated envelope. That means we can cut out the insulation and use the space created for other things - like hide a soil stack. And deaden the noise. But I only get one stab at this little problem. I need to get it right. So I'd like to fit acoustic piping (like this) or (maybe this) additionally encapsulate the acoustic pipe in sound-deadened (proofed is impossible I think) trunking. maybe double the amount of plasterboard on the ceiling under the upstairs bathroom meet and exceed the proofing levels required in Part E Have you had to deal with a similar problem? How did you work it out? Is the general approach outlined above sensible? Do you have any comments. I'm feeling a bit 'exposed' on this one.....
  5. I have a first design for my foul-drainage runs (in red) from my engineers. A couple of questions… Could I combine the two right-most ICs into one? It might mean one of the runs would intersect the IC at 90º. Do the IC's all need to be 450 mm diameter or would smaller do, .e.g. 300mm or 320mm? I ask as my engineers, more used to big civil projects, tend to over specify things I think. (IC = inspection chamber)
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