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About magnethead

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  1. I'm not sure about Isotex, but I had quotes from Izodom and Thermhouse (just down the road from you)..and there wasn't much in it, I think THermohouse was slightly more expensive. (but the carriage costs on Izodom coming in from Poland would have made them equal) Thermohouse have a good few clients in the Kerry, Cork area. If you are going ICF, make sure you visit another house that is being poured first, to get an Idea about how important bracing is, I wish I had done that instead of trusting the installers supplied by Thermohouse, great product but the guy they put forward thought he was gods gift to building, but didn't internally brace one of my T walls, leading to a large bulge.
  2. Just finished laying all my insulation in the rest of the house apart from the Garage. Thanks very much @AliG I love your Idea of bringing the flag stones under the Door, That Look like a Runner. I'll use a Good DPC under them to carry water to the outside and it should be Good.
  3. HI Guys, Thanks so much for your replies, It's my first time building and I don't have much exposure to this industry apart from a few summer jobs onsite. I got a lot of Solace from @AliG post, that's a very practical/experienced look at things and it's helped me get a bit of sleep on this. I had a close look at the door, and even in the joints between the panels, you can see gaps to the outside where you would nearly put your finger through. This garage will only be used as a workshop for me, so without thinking I ordered up all the insulation for the house, It's Kore100 insulation. I was told by the screed company, I would need higher density stuff for the garage if I ever wanted a car in there(I won't but if I sold the house, the new owner might, so I've asked them to exchange that bit of insulation) which is delaying things a bit, not a bad thing as I still need to sort out this threshold. So leaving aside Thermal issues for now, I see I have a massive NEW problem as I measure the door, and the front surface is actually recessed back 40mm from the insulation ICF insulation I'm going to need some kind of tray to carry water out side, I wasn't planning on putting an ACO drain outside the garage but maybe I need too. Here is the threshold at the moment. I am an amateur welder, so something made up out of stainless steel would be an easy option for me. @Russell griffiths I checked out a company selling fibreglass angle here They seem to have only 75mm x 75m angle.......... THen I got onto a guy who makes surfboards, who said he could make up something custom, might need to make up a aluminium shutter first to make the piece. I was hoping to leave a little trough for the bottom of the garage door to go into, you have an almost flush design which makes better sense if the garage is being used for a car to drive in and out of I'm going to need some kind of tray(see large area outined in red at the bottom of the attached dsrawing) to carry the water away from the underside of the door and under the stone slab...I have plenty of Fibran insulation left over, I was using that under the screed where the stairs lands. so I stuck it in the gap in the updated drawing Thanks for any advice you can provide Garage_Threshold1.pdf
  4. Thanks @Russell griffiths , Would you mind making out a little sketch of what you had in mind please? I saw your comment at the end of @Vijay thread. Do you mean, you would put the Fibreglass angle under where the door would come down, and that would created a backing rod, to hold back the screed while it sets? Vijay was talking about putting a galvanized T section in the middle of the core? But it's more then likely a door would be mounted on the inside face of the ICF and thus come down just inside the wall like in my photo above (correct me if I'm wrong Vijay)
  5. Thanks @Vijay Just read the whole thread. Yes, the channel would be a problem, but I don't plan to have the door open much, hardly ever. It would be better to have a gradual slope tapering off, something you could do with a tarmac finish, but I'm going for Stone just outside the building. I take it you haven't pulled the trigger on your build yet? I'm under serious pressure to come up with a detail fast We'll see how it turns out like...I'll report back here either way 😜
  6. Here's a quick knock-up, The way I have it at the moment, there would be a cold bridge with the flagstones coming up to the Door sitting on the Concrete core (or maybe that is not something worry too much about? My main concern is the heated garage slab(With is thermally isolated from the rest of the house ground slab(120m2) having a cold bridge with the outside. Anyone want to make a guess 😜 you could get to see your idea become a reality, as this all has to happen in the next two weeks, even though the screed lad is dragging his heels about getting over here to have a look. The 'garage' will never have a car in it, It's more of a workshop Garage_Threshold.pdf
  7. Well they are in place now 😉 they are about 30cm below ground and probably OK to not even insulated them.. But just wanted to give it a Spray, I was talking to a lad at a plastics manufacturer and he said the polyurethane pipes are unlikely to react with most things.... Pvc would be a different story
  8. Hi Guys, I've ordered up all the insulation for my house floor, should be coming tomorrow, I meant to get these details sorted before now but I'm not really sure how the garage door threshold is going to work...I originally wasn't going to heat it, but now I've decided to give it a go with underfloor expanded from the rest of the house. The garage and the room above it are cut off air wise from the rest of the house, airtight line is between them and the rest of the house. Anyway, Does anyone have any threshold details as, I now have to isolate the screed in the garage from the outside, you can see here my Door line comes down just inside the wall. Thanks for any words of wisdom and even more thanks for any schematic details. This is just to get the ball rolling, I'll knock up a CAD drawing later for this and put in any suggestions you make. I scooped out 50mm concrete in the core before it set, and the plan was to cut the foam upstand bits off, and lay some kinda flagstone paving up to the door line.
  9. Hi Guys, Can I cover these outside waterlines in sprayfoam? It won't eat it or anything? These guys are heavy dutypipe, just wanted to check THanks
  10. Hiya @Russell griffiths , This is the stuff they were using, probably a larger 20mm diameter to bring the water over to the stacked bathrooms on one side of the house, and 16mm it out from there. I think that's the Italian manufacturer at the start of the text He crimped on these fittings using something that looked like the jaws of life.....some Hilti device, looked very cool Hopefully this guy is doing it right. @Nickfromwales it looks like I have 16mm going to all my bathroom fittings, since absolutely all the plumbing stuff came in from Poland , I hope it all mates up, but I will ask the plumber just to be sure...I hope the polish purchasing doesn't come back to bite me
  11. Had loads of offcuts and blocks leftover the manufacturer was talking about perfect calculations at the start but when the building started, the builder didn't do it exactly the way they had calculated which meant they had to send on a good few more bails of blocks. All the leftovers got thrown in a skip, there were metal ties in my blocks which makes it had to recycle apparently. I think AMVIC might take back some of the blocks for recycling. The builder told me the recycled EPS blocks break much easier then one's using new beads.
  12. Hiya Russel, The plumber just provided all the pipes, It's Alupex..and they came in prewrapped coils. Both the hot and cold sides are pressurized. Are you after a manufacturer? I'll ask the plumber next time I see him 😜
  13. Thanks guys 💪 some great points there... I hadn't even though if the noise issue, some of that window foam like you said would be good to kill the sound.. I'll talk to the tanking guy who comes to do the shower if I can borrow some of his offcuts and line around the cores, just to get a protective lip up an inch Mr punter, I wouldn't trust sand/cement to seal anything especially with the insulated pipes coming up, or do you mean building a rim piece out of sand/cement
  14. Hi there, Electricians just popped a few holes in my render , what is the best way to seal them up? They just said Silicone.....I have plenty of left over render, Would be it better to use that are silicone to seal up the holes? Thanks
  15. Hi there, I'll be putting a box around this toilet hanger, It just struck me that if there was ever a major leak in the bathroom, the water could flood under the bath or toilet hanger box and make it's way down through these core holes and soak the ceiling below, Is it standard to tank around the edges of core holes? The shower will have tanking done to it and then a glass screen between it and the toilet, but I'm just thinking worse case scenario, where the bathroom gets flooded Thanks