magnethead

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  1. Here's how the above finished up, I leave an EPS reveal that needs to be protected, I think this guy is going to use metal sheeting. I'm after the stone facing right up to the window, so I'm going to cut the little nib at the front and move the windows flush with the outside EPS face, (See attachedhow another guy has just run the cement up against the PVC face)
  2. just a couple of posts down in this ICF sub-forum https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/10946-icf-epsxps-external-fixings/
  3. Well we're the worst consumers in the world here in Ireland, so it's €300 a tub (basically everything is double or triple the price of anywhere else), in northern Ireland the price is £150 plus VAT, I got it for a £140 and no VAT because the guy had plenty to spare....Special note when using TT, on ICF, it's goes waaaaaay further then the manufacturer says, that's why he got caught with so much extra Something to do with the clean finish on ICF
  4. @Conor It all comes from the one manufacturer , called Thermohouse, they do the Roof, floors and walls. All the tech details are on their website
  5. Tec7 MS Polymer is what the manufacturer recommended.....expensive as hell!! That's the glue gun option. It is hardy stuff, I've used is years ago (6 years) on a cracked concrete window sill and it's still holding strong. I was speaking to the Triton TT rep and he says (as he would) the black stuff has great adhesion to EPS! I saw a whole house covered in it up north I picked up some extra pots from this sound lad!
  6. Thanks @Russell griffiths , yes the roof panel is 250mm thick, I have lot's of off cuts of the roof material, that's a good idea, I'll see if I can get enough big bits to cram in there. I'm not sure about the longevity of foam, I've seen low quality foam just shrink and fall out of pipes, The foam they were using was called Insta Stick. I've gone around the outside and Tech7/CT1 'd the little cracks where the roof insulation seals with the wall insulation, Top and bottom (Probably overkill but it gives me the warm fuzzy feeling inside) , I'll do the outside once this is sealed.
  7. Hi There, the Roof has just being put on my building, the builder has managed to sit the roof about 10mm above the side walls, the Top and bottom are squeezed tight. This was to allow him adjustment on the timber Purlins and wallplates. He says foam will fill the 10-15mm gap at the end, that covers the ICF wall, 50mm internal insulation, 150mm concrete and 100mm external insulation. I'd like to get some thoughts from buildhub as opposed to the builder, as I don't think 'Just foam it up' is an airtight strategy I'll have to go over the internal seam with some Liquid membrane like Triton TT or something. Thanks for your thoughts.
  8. Hi, I would like to hear your opinions on what way to do the Windows and Door on an ICF house with Stone facing. Here are some examples below. In this example below the windows are kept back behind the 100mm exterior insulation But this leave an EPS reveal!! up above, the EPS is painted with a TT rubberized membrane and the Lintel is powdercoated black. I understand the guy about, he has a 25mm nib all around the reveal to which the window frame is bonded too, but I believe it won't look the best. I was thinking to bring the stone into the reveal like in the below, but was worried I might not get a good enough seal to the window frame/stone,
  9. Is it important to cut into the EPS at an angle above the stopbead? like below I imagine this would be a pain if your stopbead is running up the wall at an angle, i'll be facing the same problem soon enough. It looks like there is some fixing joining the stopbead back to the concrete/block
  10. Here's some nice fixings, when you want a drainpipe your kid could climb up, These are fixings from Fischer I have seen these used before, they are like LARGE plasterboard screw holders and these are the only houses with external insulation that I have personally seen the drainpipes detach from .... I would be going for concrete everytime, where there is something with any weight hanging off it.
  11. oh right, I have you, It's all insulation above (ICF blocks) ...so 100mm insulation facing all the way up with a render covering eventually, the upper floor is being built currently.. I arrange to go that way. Thanks
  12. Hi, Yes, the 3D shot looks a bit weird above, the Idea is to box it out seamlessly, all in the same render, underneath and on the sides...I literally want to extend the overhang downwards, So insulation shrinks over time, I didn't know that, I guess so does wood, so would little metal legs be the way to go then? Thanks
  13. I was just thinking, maybe a 30cm box of insulation hanging below this overhang, would not be structural enough, and might move and crack the render over time? Would you drop some Steel legs off the concrete beams above?