magnethead

Members
  • Content Count

    73
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Neutral

About magnethead

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Does anyone know of a good tie system? for inserting after the concrete pour? I have some helical ties, but they are a pain to insert and the local mason said he doesn't believe they have the same holding power as the standard triangle heads.
  2. Lads, anyone any Idea for flashing over a Lintel like this? I see some Americans use a piece of aluminum cut into the EPS at an angle, Would you cut a seam and just insert and bond some DPC and drape over the lintel? Type of Lintel to be used very soon
  3. If I had a time machine, I would go back and use this product , Building science says cavity is the best defense against leaks https://www.surecav.co.uk/
  4. Has anyone any Idea or better still, details for Doing the head flashing over a window/door, while trying to maintain that waterproof seal on the ICF face, before the stone goes on?
  5. Just to continue this, This is my plan so far to seal up the windows and doors. Please drop some comments if you see an area to be improved, something I should do differently. I Put some supports under the windows and doors even though I was told it's not necessary and that the foam would carry the load. I love overkill anyway. you can see some backer rod sticking out here on the right side Some close up and the upper window @BotusBuild Any luck with your detailing of the stone face? Do you know which way you are going with it. Even though it says this Feltrim 2 tape can be plastered over with sand/cement, the data sheets says to leave about 15mm of tape on the frame not covered in concrete/plaster. Does anyone know a better tape that can be completely covered? Thanks
  6. just to add my 2 cents, this is how I decided to go. This flashing is coming down at an angle of 15degress. one mistake I made, was not covering the heads of the 150mm concrete screws with CT1/tec7 If water ever got behind the stop bead and travelled down the lead, It could get in behind the head of the screw...damn (I CT1/tec7 the lip on the lead to the foam all the way up)... I then sprayed in some Soundal foam filler to fill the gap (20mm x 20mm) The stop bead was eventually put on, covering the lead by about 20mm
  7. Ah very good, the ICF blocks are grey and have a fire retardant (Neuro-toxin) added into them. 'Thermohouse' is the company. Great answer @nod I'll put that back at him and see what he thinks. for future repairs, maybe having boards would be easier tape and jointing might be a cheaper way to go, but a few people have told me it's hard to pull off correctly.
  8. I was talking to an ICF manufacturer who had issues with 2 clients plastering directly onto EPS walls(shelling occurred). In Europe with the much dryer air, this is apparently no problem. Here with the much higher humidity, he was explaining, that with a steel trowel, the outside layer of plaster Is sealed, and the moisture can not migrate back through the EPS layer , and that trapped layer of moisture makes the plaster much more likely to delaminate. maybe I picked up the theory wrong? anyway, has anyone ever tried successfully to plaster directly onto EPS walls? Thanks
  9. I like threads that show the outcome, so here go's....I actually bought the stainless threaded bar, and then luckily found a supplier who had 400mm concrete insulation anchors or whatever you call them. (Thanks @Nethermoor) Then I put up some Aluminum track (secured with 150mm concrete screws) There are some metal C-sections running through the panels, so I could use 200mm Timco screws to get into them with a washer I put a heap of concrete fixings in around the esges above the next morning and forgot to take a picture. The final job, good enough for the plaster's to take care of I used Tec7/CT1 on the top layer, and then got my hands on some base coat adhesive to stick the final layer on , you can see a bit spilling over the edges. Thanks everyone for your advise
  10. Hiya, It's just WBP ply on the Facia, the box gutter itself is Marine Ply, and that's treated 6x1 on the top edge. The roofer says I should put some "heat tape" , some thermostatically controlled heated line in the gutter. I'm within 200mm of the sea and rarely see much snow, so I'm not going to bother. I don't like the idea of an electric line coming in through the roof.
  11. Hi, I've already gone and done this, not sure if it's the right way to go, so just looking for some more experienced lads review. I had some extra Compact foam left over from a heavy slider Threshold, so i cut up a load of 20mm strips for some hangers I had made up for a Hidden gutter. I bolted them on with 100mm concrete thunder bolts, should I have used washers on the steel face or something? My thinking was this compact foam (Like a wood material, quite solid) would act as a bit of a thermal break for the hangers, I didn't know the proper structural material to stick in there, I know sometimes there is a special hard material, used to thermally isolate two beams from each other. Anyway, let me know if I screwed this up? It felt fairly solid and there is feck all weight in the hidden gutter, so hopefully it will hold, The gutter, is about 7M high, and facing south-west, so it will get a good smack of an updraft, (Probably total overkill, but sure why not). If you've ever stood at a sea wall, during strong wind, you get a sense for how powerful updraft can be.
  12. I think it's a standard enough detail, no need for the fancy ICF block ledge in this picture, just a few breeze blocks built up off your foundation would be fine (That's what I did)
  13. Some Aluminium U channel bolted to the wall to hold the insulation on that side, and then threaded bar coming down from the Concrete to hold the perimeter area, yeah, that might do the trick! Thanks Lads
  14. I'll check out what Fixings I can get, I think they go to 290mm. (It never crossed my mind to sink them into the EPS, thanks for that) , yeah the pattern is from the OSB board the lads frame those ring beams with you had me worried for a second there LOL
  15. Yeah, two 150mm layers would be ideal, I can figure out the first layers and the fixings needed, but I would NOT trust the second layer with just adhesive, and what kinda fixings are going to get through 300mm of insulation and find concrete, and maybe the steel sections in the flooring panels, which are another 40mm in?? I don't understand what you mean about the reinforcement, are you saying you see rebar in that picture above? I better go back and take a closer look if so.