Temp

The two most most important things are Depth of insulation under the UFH - How much can you fit? How deep are the joists? Enough coverage - If you have a room with a lot of glass (high heat loss) and kitchen units (reducing area with UFH) then the amount of power delivered from floor to room might be inadequate. Perhaps work out the power based on 65-85 W/m^2. PS Don't put UFH under the fridge/freezer

Paving Expert site is also good.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/featur03 Long walls should have piers at regular intervals, or zigzag them to make them more interesting and do away with piers.

My first reaction to seeing this.. ...Is that heavy rain will overshoot the gutter. It will also be very important to get the details under the gutter right when its built. The facade tiles would need to be behind the drip bead shown. In case you are wondering.. you can't hide the gutter behind the tiles.

Main thing is not to make it too close. If its a bit further out you can always batten the wall before plaster boarding.

I'm not 100% sure but most timber used in construction is graded either C16 or C24 standards. Google found.. https://cdn.buildresources.co.uk/sites/582/docs/BM_Trada_fact_sheet.pdf "Building Regulations require structural timber used in buildings to be strength graded and marked dry graded". But lots of people, including us, use green oak in construction.

There is a list of appeal decisions here.. http://www.permitteddevelopment.org/Incidental-Use-Appeal-Decisions.php Some large outbuildings were refused but some were approved at appeal.

Im sure you know that the issue that must be addressed is the weight of the roof pushing the walls out. This is normally achieved by triangulation/joists but another way is to use a structural ridge beam... This works by using a steel or possibly a large wood beam instead of the normal thin ridge board. The ends of the beam carry the majority of the weight of the roof so must rest on padstones in the gable walls or possibly on steel or large wood posts that go down to the foundations. If possible avoid having doors or windows in the gable walls as that can complicate things. The rafters should meet above the ridge beam and be connected together (perhaps with steel straps) so they effectively "hang" from the ridge beam. There are versions of this that use purlins to carry some of the load. These also reduce the unsupported span of the rafters and consequently their dimensions can be smaller. Lot depends on what the roof covering is going to be - tiles are much heavier than polycarbonate sheeting! https://www.beamcalculation.co.uk/start-calculation/steel-ridge-beam/

Google found.. https://www.bauder.co.uk/technical-centre/design-considerations/flat-roof-design-considerations/falls-and-drainage#:~:text=According to BS 6229 %26 BS,along with any internal gutters. However I can't find where it says that in Part H. Part H doesn't appear to reference either BS standard. Perhaps see page 38 onwards.

Normally there are at least four stages.. 1) Design and Planning Permission 2) Building Control Application and Approval 3) Getting quotes and choosing a builder 4) The build Some people employ an architect to do/manage all four stages. Other people only use an Architect for the first two stages. Others don't use a builder (instead they hire contractors and manage the build themselves). Others hire a project manager to oversee stages 3 and 4. Which route you take depends on how much involvement you want and knowledge you have. Using an Architect to manage all four stages is expensive - think their standard fee is around 11% of the build cost. A QS would typically offer to do two things for you.. 1) He would estimate the build cost from the architects plans, and check builders quotes are consistent. For example is one quote less because the builder left out the kitchen or assumed a different nominal figure. 2) Carry out regular valuations of the build and recommend stage payments to the builder be made. If any changes are required during construction he would agree the extra cost or reduction in the builders quote. Employing a QS is also quite expensive.

Even where you dont have a cabled network I've found the powerlink kit works well. A tx unit near my CU and I can plug a wifi AP anywhere in the house, even out in the shed which is what I got it for. I get a WiFi connection connection speed limited by my broadband connection (around 40Mb/s according to fast.com). Edit: I probably wouldn't build a house that relied on it but it would be my choice over wifi boosters/repeaters.

+1 Otherwise I think they recommend aiming for 1 in 60 with 1 in 40 max and 1 in 80 minimum.

There are several ways to improve wifi coverage but .. First thing I would do is download this free Wifi Analyser App for Android or a similar one and check what channels are in use near you. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keuwl.wifi Put it Channel mode (see buttons at the bottom) and walk around where its bad to see if there are lots of other wifi stations in the area. Although there are 13 channels a wifi access point effectively broadcasts on a block of 4. So in practice life can get tricky if there are more than three or four wifi access points in close proximity. Channels 1, 6 and 11 are recommended to keep them from overlapping. However most ISP give you router set up on channel 1. So one cause of poor coverage is interference from a neighbours wifi that is also on ch 1. You might be able to improve your coverage simply by switching it to ch 6 or 11 for no cost at all.

Your tennant might not thank you. Electricity costs at least three times gas per kWh. https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ Pence per kWh (after boiler efficiency)... Electricity Online Rate 19.43 p/kWh Mains Gas Online Rate 3.44 p/kWh I guess if you aren't paying much for gas the absolute increase won't seem so bad.

DALI/PUSH/1-10V dimming: What’s the difference and which to choose?.. https://www.theverge.com/platform/amp/2020/11/11/21559929/ring-video-doorbell-2nd-gen-fire-concerns-recall-hazard-screws-installation 0–10V, DALI AND OTHER LIGHTING CONTROL SYSTEM PROTOCOLS COMPARED https://www.cmd-ltd.com/advice-centre/lighting-control-systems/0-10v-dali-and-other-lighting-control-system-protocols-compared/ I'd avoid Push dimming.

I might be wrong but I don't think there has been a national change. Might be something in the local plan or a local Suplimentary Planning Policy Document (SPPD).

The rules determine if the Party Wall Act applies BUT that doesnt necessarily mean you must have a full blown PW Agreement drawn up by expensive surveyors. Depends if you are on good terms and he's happy with the proposed work. Point out screwed piles are less disruptive than hammered or deep trench foundations. If your neighbour is happy with your plans you just need to exchange letters. Example content down this page.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/party-wall-etc-act-1996-guidance#explanatory-booklet See.. "Example letter 8: 3/6 metre notice" And "Example letter 9: positive acknowledgement of 3/6 metre notice"

+2 to Osmo Hardwax Oil (Although its not like a wax or an oil). Ours has been down 13 years in a hallway with two kids that have just turned 18. Doesnt need recoating yet.

Can't add much except.. check that the stats are controlling the right floor loops. We had two crossed over and took awhile to figure out what was going on because the stats were eventually being satisfied.

1 an 2 are fine 3 I think this type screws direct into concrete. Various sizes available.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-bright-zinc-plated-carbon-steel-concrete-bolts-m10-x-100mm-10-pack/5800p 4 Have you considered another layer of plasterboard over whole room to get rid of the step? Or nail together two bits of 2x4 to make a bit with a matching 15 mm step in it.

Any words on the receipt such as "paid in full"? Or "full and final settlement"? I don't know what you would need to get out of it. Legally and morally they are right.

I would say yes unless there it something in the contract that gets you off the hook... https://www.mytipsandadvice.co.uk/2017-10/errors-on-your-vat-invoices-UKTAVAAR_EU07110401

You already have something there.. I guess they are too small or too far apart or?

That looks like his plan but the delay means loosing his builder so he's trying to find a way around it.

Is it a new building or an extension? There are two versions of Part L one for each. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/conservation-of-fuel-and-power-approved-document-l

Sorry if its obvious but the ridges of adhesive formed by a notched trowel allow you adjust the height and level the tiles. Ideally they should be squashed down until most of the gaps have gone but I like to make use of them to get all the tiles as level as possible with their neighbours. To do that I have a large rubber faced block that my dad called a "Blat" that looks a bit like a float. You used to be able to buy them but I made my last one.